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J1000 New Reader
3/30/19 6:17 p.m.

Honestly I thought 0w-20 was the factory fill until now, I just looked it up and you're right it is 5w-30. I actually picked up some Rotella T6 today I'll probably run that from now on.

J1000 New Reader
4/5/19 9:04 p.m.

First autocross is coming up on Sunday and I've been doing a couple things in preparation.

I installed a torque damper, seems to help a bunch when shifting at high RPM, haven't missed a shift since installing it.


The rear tires were rubbing on the fender lip when bottoming out so I borrowed a friend's tool and rolled the rear fenders:


Lastly, I tried to make a heatshield for the intake filter to isolate it from the header a small amount. Heat shielding comes from a V10 M5, cool!

J1000 New Reader
4/8/19 11:57 a.m.

It was the first Time Attack points even of the season on Sunday and I drove my little blue Honda to a 3rd place finish in class losing to 1st and 2nd by just .5 and .3 seconds. The car is completely different from how it was last year. I really had no idea what it was going to do when chucked into a corner before showing up to this event. First place was driving a Neon and second in a CRX. Both excellent drivers with about 500lbs less mass in their vehicles, I will need to increase my car's handling ability if I am going to catch them. My friend co-drove with me and we think he got 4th place too, but final results aren't out yet, if so that would be his highest finishing position ever in this series.

Things I loved:
-Excellent turn-in and balance
-Gearing is great

Things I need to fix:
-Too much body roll
-Spongy brakes
-Need more camber in front


First on the list is addressing the handling. The handing is great, however the springs are a bit soft and there is a lot of body roll. A few times it was pogoing up and down when hitting a curb just right. I'm deciding if I can fix the handling with just a set of stiffer sway bars, or if I should consider different coilovers.

Brakes I think I will just do braided lines and fluid flush and see what it's like after that.

As for alignment I have a set of camber plates ready to install which should give me all the camber I need. The car really handled well and had tons of grip until it started leaning over hard where things started getting pushy. The fast sections is was really good in, with almost a perfect neutral balance and easy throttle steering.


Robbie UltimaDork
4/8/19 12:47 p.m.

I think I'd try the camber plates first before swapping springs and roll bars, just to see if you can fix it by optimizing the contact patch. Conversely, I guess you might not need the camber if you can fix the roll with bars!

What do your rules say about the sunroof? If you street drive the car you may not want to get rid of it, but that weight as high as possible on the car may make a noticeable difference in roll. 

rustybuckets Reader
4/8/19 1:38 p.m.

Love the bronze/gold wheels!! I've got a 2008 si, same blue as yours. Makes me want to paint the wheels!

J1000 New Reader
4/8/19 2:22 p.m.

Thanks guys!

I really want to stiffen it up a bit, it was sluggish in the transitions as well as having lots of roll. I think even with it being stiffer I'd still need more camber, this thing has hardly any stock so I'm only running whatever the camber bolts give me which is probably -1 degree at the most. Sunroof stays, this is still my daily driver!

When I first bought these wheels I was going to strip and repaint them and maybe sell them after a season, but they really have grown on me. 

Working on the video now.

J1000 New Reader
4/8/19 3:35 p.m.

In reply to ScottyB :

You were right, the car runs great on the Rotella T6 0w-40 I put in it. There used to be a nasty noise on initial start up in the morning, but that is gone now. I was getting a CEL and limp mode for VTEC malfunction on my drive in to work a couple times after chaning to the T6 oil. It came down to the engine being cold and the VTEC not working properly. I just bumped up the min temperature requirement for VTEC by 20F and haven't gotten that CEL again.

Also I'm averaging 30 MPG yes

J1000 New Reader
4/8/19 6:54 p.m.

Here's my video for this event also including my co-driver. I'm pretty sure the fast lap they credited me I hit a cone so I also included my 2nd fastest lap which was clean and still good enough for 3rd place.


This is a clip from another run where I was relishing my 8600rpm redline a bit too long:


J1000 New Reader
4/9/19 11:37 a.m.

I still haven't gotten the raw dyno file yet but I did get these two screenshots. The reason for MPH instead of RPM is because it's hard to get a good ignition signal from COPs, it's always noisy. If I can get the raw file I could scale to RPM based on gear ratio and view torque and also uncorrected numbers, hopefully I can get it. The dyno operator scaled it for me in the shop and it made 155 ft-lbs peak torque FYI.

We can at least check out the plot. From 6000-6500 RPM all the way to red line it makes at minimum 180whp. Pretty awesome!


195.7 whp on 91 octane pump gas:


202.7 whp on E70 ethanol:

J1000 New Reader
4/25/19 12:32 p.m.

A couple updates as I'm getting ready for the next event May 5th.

First I definitely bent something in the front left corner suspension with my off-track. The tie rod was bent and threw out toe but also I lost a bunch of camber on that side so I think maybe the lower arm is bent. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to replace the arm or the tie rod, but I corrected the toe. I also installed a 2nd set of camber bolts so now my left front has a tad more camber than I had originally and the right front has even more. 

The day after the last event I decided to buy a set of KSport coilovers which should be a massive improvement. Unfortunately, the lead time is pretty long so I won't have them in time for May 5 but should have them shortly after. I also ordered braided brake line hoses but those won't come in time for the 5th either.

Looking forward to the next event even though the car will be about the same. At least I will have a bit more front camber and I'm also going to run a higher tire pressure and I think both will make the car better. I'll also try to run a bit less fuel in the tank. I'm only .5 seconds off the leader so I will focus on driving smooth and fast!

ScottyB Reader
4/29/19 11:37 a.m.
J1000 said:

In reply to ScottyB :

You were right, the car runs great on the Rotella T6 0w-40 I put in it. There used to be a nasty noise on initial start up in the morning, but that is gone now. 

hey glad to hear its running smooth.  i bet that noise is the common VTC Actuator clatter.  its harmless as far as i know but it sure feels better to hear it start up smoothly!  you should be able to easily pull a 6,000 mile oil change out of that even with hard driving.  

your power levels look nice and healthy for a short ram/header/exhaust/tune K20.  if you ever get around to a J35 throttle body and a cold air intake, you'll likely find another 8-10whp.  that's the great thing about K's...just keep giving them more air and they'll turn around and spit out great power gains.

those runs looked so fun.  i need to see if we have some of that locally.  i'd love to drive something that's a mix between autocross and track, since i'm totally boned on classing in traditional autocross but not prepped enough for full track work.

judging by photos you could absolutely benefit from more front camber.  you look to be riding the shoulder of the tire pretty hard.  even with added roll stiffness i'd see if you can get at least 2 degrees and all the caster you can dial.  with your toe zeroed out, that kind of camber should still give you good tread life on the street.

keep us updated!  super fun build to follow.

J1000 New Reader
5/2/19 6:58 p.m.

Right now I don't want any more power otherwise I'll have to race in FA against turbo cars like Fiesta ST, Golf GTI, Cobalt SS, Veloster, etc and I'll get my butt kicked. Yeah the PPIR Time Attack series is just plain fun, anyone in Colorado or surrounding states should check it out.


Today I finished up some last-minute mods before race day. I think since page 1 I've been talking about relocating my battery. I did just that and that freed up some extra space so I also built a true cold air intake. My intake temps used to be 100+F pretty much all the time so this should help a lot. 


There's a perfect hole and my AEM Acura TSX intake has been the gift that keeps on giving. With a few more cuts and silicone couplers it made for the perfect fit. This is just an empty cavity and it's guarded from splashes and debris while still having plenty of airflow. It's like Honda designed this for this purpose from the beginning.



Moved around a few wires so I wouldn't pinch them and lined the edge of the sheetmetal. It's bolted down way tighter than before and doesn't move at all. This should eliminate at least one annoying rattle.



I ran the power to these little stud post things. I thought that would keep it neat and tidy and also provide a place to jump start or run other accessories like normal.

Final result:




J1000 New Reader
5/2/19 7:19 p.m.

Now for part 2 the battery needed a new home. After debating constantly over and over and over in my head for days where I wanted to put the battery and dreaming about it and becoming obsessed I finally decided on mounting it on the floor behind the passenger seat. Other potential areas included: underneath the rear bumper, by the right rear strut tower, or in the cargo area. I just figured this spot would be the best for moment of inertia, lowest CG, and convenience of mounting and wiring. Since it was inside the vehicle I went for a Miata battery. I knew I wanted an AGM and I wanted one with vent tubes but didn't know of any other battery and a Miata battery will work just fine. 


I re-used the original mounting hardware albeit with a block of wood. I want to bend a new hold down strap but this works for now. I used "mil-spec" terminal connectors I got off Amazon, no idea if they really are or not but they are really nice and good quality. They also have quality pretective covers.



I drilled out the spot welds and re-used the bracket that holds the long hook. Just bolted it through the floor with some fat washers.



I ran the vent tubes together and then through a hole in the fuel pump access panel which goes to the outside world.



The positive runs down the door sil under the trim plastic and then up behind the glovebox and through a gasket to the old location.


Rear seat reinstalled:


The rear seat is still somewhat usable if for any reason I have rear passengers, which I have never had in this car. I centered it on the seat for that reason. One thing I overlooked is that the passenger seat will easily push back into the stud and likely tear. I have a few ideas how to address that to make it foolproof.



More horsepowers and more handlings!

J1000 New Reader
5/3/19 10:45 a.m.

The new intake is effective! Near-ambient intake temperatures now, this is after my hour long mixed city/hwy commute. Usually it's 90-100F on a day like today.


J1000 New Reader
5/6/19 10:32 a.m.

Will have more updates soon but the car rocked yesterday! I think I came home with 2nd in class. The small changes made a big difference and the car was eating up the track. Here's a teaser:




J1000 New Reader
5/7/19 9:49 a.m.

First things first here is the in-car video of my co-driver and my fastest runs.


This course layout was much better for my car than the last one I think, with more of the course being steady sweepers and far less bumpy. I ran a fastest time of 63.1 which was a solid 2nd place. First place was the blue CRX with a 62.3 I believe. That car is fast, not sure if I'll be able to catch him this season. The small camber gain and tire pressure change made a big difference in how the car felt and it had a lot less understeer, even oversteering on us a couple times. The battery relocation also probably helped. I was also running less than 1/4 tank of fuel with the fuel light on. Every little bit adds up!


My cold air intake works fine when driving around, but I found out that in the autocross format waiting in long lines crawling up to the start that my intake is heatsoaking pretty badly with IAT reaching over 120F. So basically back to square 1 haha. I have a couple ideas on how I can address this starting with some insulation material and maybe ducting or a scoop or even a small dedicated fan.



Avoided traffic on the interstate and had a beautiful drive home.

J1000 New Reader
5/8/19 3:11 p.m.






J1000 Reader
5/11/19 5:11 p.m.

Did some more modz to the Civic today. My KSport suspension showed up this week so obviously it needs to be installed asap! I also installed my Goodridge braided brake and clutch lines and bled the system out with new Ford Motorcraft high performance DOT 4 stuff. 



I went for the lower teir KSport coilovers which come with camber plates only. Previously I ordered KSport camber/caster plates but never put them on, now is the perfect time! In order to get these on a KSport coil setup you have to spend $500 or $600 more.


Next step is alignment and corner balance. Brake pedal feels stiff!

J1000 Reader
5/15/19 10:15 p.m.

No driving since I installed the new parts. If I did a little more reading first I might have learned that on the DC5/EP3 chassis the tie rods end up being too long when doing all this suspension stuff. End result is that now my car is pigeon-toed at maximum adjustment. I have ordered K-Tuned tie rods which fix the problem, and then will install them. This was a big oversight on my part as now I'm not sure if I'll have time to get a proper alignment and corner balance before the next event. I may just have to eyeball it again. I should be able to get them installed no problem, though.


To address my heat soak while sitting on grid I installed a high flow 12v fan in the undertray right below the air filter. It is wired to a relay and switch and moves quite a bit of air. I'll see how long it lasts in this precarious place but right now it's just a test of the idea. It definitely can't hurt as my intake temps were as hot as ever at the last event.

Hoondavan Reader
5/16/19 8:54 a.m.

You should buy a complete setup for toe adjustment (alum. plates and tape measure) for <$65 online.  I'll probably order a set of these, or find a way to use something I already have to do this (boards?).  

You'll need a separate tool for camber & Caster, but for the price of two alignments, you probably buy the camber tool as well.  The simple magnet & level for camber are $20, and the camber/caster setup (shown below) are $200 on up.  Based on the amount of work you've done on your car, I'm guessing you may really like the ability to check and adjust your alignment regularly. 



J1000 Reader
5/16/19 3:35 p.m.

That is a good idea. Honestly, I haven't really looked into any home alignment stuff, but I know the tech is getting pretty good and also affordable.

mazdeuce - Seth
mazdeuce - Seth Mod Squad
5/16/19 3:50 p.m.

You can do toe very well with just four jack stands and strings. I actually find it more accurate (in my garage anyway) than toe plates. 

J1000 Reader
5/16/19 7:34 p.m.

Yeah toe is really all I've been caring about, I just set negative camber to max wink


As I type this I am sitting in my Miata on the alignment rack getting my new suspension dialed in on my weekend fun car yes


artur1808 Reader
5/17/19 6:51 a.m.
J1000 said:



Were you able to get a sense of how quickly temperatures come back down once you get moving? I see you already installed the fan, but I agree that it might not last too long in that location. Seems like with some strategic ducting you might be able to get fresh air in there quickly once you get out of grid and actually start moving on the track. 

J1000 Reader
5/17/19 10:03 a.m.

It did cool off during the run and we ended about 10F cooler or so, but not enough it was still really hot. There already is some ducting where any air that spills over the edge of the radiator goes trowards the void where the air filter is. Once you sit in line creeping forward slowly with no airflow then the hot air is free to find its way in.

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