FrankenFerrari - V12 Ferrari 308

Every time I see that, I wonder how there's even any room for a transmission!

mke said:

The shock is done and shopping today so I need to crack on the the important work of wire and hose routing and tying....I think this is a winner for the engine bay:

 

Quoted so this is near the top of the next page. Bravo!

So I started tying wires in the truck and somehow decide to grab the bumper and muffler cover which I  set in place

The bumper needs a little repair from the fire and that got me wondering if I could do ANYTHING with the $500 each burned left tail lights so I wasted like 2 hours sanding and polishing to get them to an ok at like 20ft condition.

Then I was thinking I could maybe spray the back section statin black....my teenagers talked me out of it but I could maybe try to talk Lana in an advance to letting me buy some blue paint, that strip above the bumper and rear the license plate is pretty burned.  The hose will be here tomorrow so back to needed work.

I would be tempted to paint the whole rear satin black also.  Less prep to cover the sins for a quick improvement and I think it would look cool as heck.  And it can always go back to blue.

Remember it's only original once, and you are well past that.

Another vote for black. I'm pretty sure it will make the car at least 5% faster.

Black tails look sooty all the time, I vote blue unless you plan more oil leakage.

Color change probably draws attention to the area .Not sure you want that .Looks like 2 rattle cans of paint would do it and color match shouldn't be too much of a stretch .Hard part will be sanding and getting contaminant free so no fish eyes.

Color change probably draws attention to the area .Not sure you want that .Looks like 2 rattle cans of paint would do it and color match shouldn't be too much of a stretch .Hard part will be sanding and getting contaminant free so no fish eyes.

The good news is the new hose came and doesn't leak.  Also its sitting in the garage on a warm night holding 80C for about  20 minutes.  Shut down then come back 10 minutes later and run another 10 minutes and it was90C at fireup the right back down to 80C.  Idle oil pressure maybe 25psi after like 10 minutes and held there so all good.  When I shut it down the floor was dry.

The bad new is an hour later there's oil on the floor

And all over the transmission.  

Last time I believed the oil returns head to block were leaking and had goo'd then with RTV but I was messy and I thought the issue was the oil pump housing so I cleaned all that shi...stuff off when the engine was out but it turns out 2 things can be true, the oil pump housing was for sure leaking but I'm pretty sure so are the oil returns on the rear head.  I'm going to leave everything untouched, make sure its dry above the headers then pull the headers so I can see and be certain where the leak is.

And its not running right.  Remember back I said I thought the ECU was losing its mind when I tried to use 2 stroke mode to avoid the damaged ignition channels, well that is still there just not nearly as bad.  Its got a roughness it shouldn't have and for sure the rear bank is wanting to drop a couple cylinders.  I'm suspecting coil 3 output (spark to cylinder 3&4) is not behaving exactly right.  I'll look at the plugs tomorrow and probably move the out put to a different pin like I did for coils 1&2.

Headers off, clean, silicone on  (need a mirror to see) headers back.  There is a chance this works, I'll find out tomorrow.

There was also a little fluid dipping from the clutch hose connection.  I snugged it yesterday but ok, I'll snug it a bit more...and strip both the hose end and adapter fittings.  The adapter I only saw at Pegasus, if it ships tomorrow I should have it Saturday I hope.

And the shock is here so if I can get it to stop leaking everywhere I can drive.

I know this is probably frustrating.   But, its awesome.

Keep it up!

I would paint it satin black. Leave part above the bumper blue (paint it) and just blacken the lights/plate area.

Yesterday's effort had 0 effect on the leak

I can see the oil running down the what was the motor mount boss

.....tomorrow when its cool I WILL find it.

I move the coil 3 pin and nothing changed, still a little rattly as rpm drops.  As I was pondering it occurred to me that at 6degree idle timing I should see the timing mark and I can't....its ignoring my idle timing setting and using the main table....I buggered something in the program and it HATES 15 degrees below about 1200rpm when its hot and that is why I thought the ECU was losing its mind before.  I'll get that sorted before next run.

I had it starting pretty good cold but it didn't start well the other day when it was 75+ out and kind of gas fouled at least 1 plug.  I have temp based corrections and could could sort it I'm sure but I decide to change my start strategy a bit.  I usually cheat and put a pretty high VE in for cranking rpm...that is left over from the days when that was the ONLY option.  Today I cut that way back to a number that the engine would probably like running and am moving the extra fuel to the start  enrich where it belongs so bit more work to do there to get back to where I was. 

Last I cleaned the plug before starting and still I have cylinders that want to drop.  I leaned it out quite a bit from where I was....it could be it just doesn't want to idle  near stoic.  I'll look at the plugs again tomorrow and decide how to proceed.

I have no doubt that you will root cause and resolve all these issues. It's fun from where I'm sitting! 🤘🏻😎

The gray RTV I put on the other day has turned to goo from the heat so it was never going to work

Its for sure the right hand side above that motor mount so at lunch today I cleaned off the goo and slathered it with the high temp orange and went back to work to let it dry.  After work I decided to let it dry more and installed the repairs shock, found and fixed the idle timing issue ("Spark Timing" is the table, "Spark_Timing" is the output from the multiplexer that selects between the main table, idle table,  and pedal blend calculation...the "_" matters), then played a bit more with the cranking fuel calcs and fuel timing and gave it a try.  The timing was fixed but I also fixed it so it didn't start and the cranking drained the battery.  After dinner and some time on the charger and a few more fuel tweaks it popped right to life better than ever.  I let it get to about 70C and....its leaking.  Its also still dropping a couple cylinders.

The good news though is its leaking differently so for sure I disturbed the leak.  Its wet above my RTV on the left side of the bung so probably a weld on the metal I added to form the oil passage.  Above the header flange its dry so I can probably slather on some more of the orange RTV to seal the leak and hide the mess with the header.  Tomorrow problem

The clutch line parts are not coming until Monday, so I can keep messing with t5his without feeling like I should be driving.

I got a late start but I believe victory is mine.  I found a pretty big hole in the oil return passage hiding on the bottom of the head.  

Ideally I would weld it.....but today, engine in the car the answer is JBweld.  Tomorrow I will leak test it before reassembling the header to be sure.  

With the rest of today I think pull the plugs to see if there is any hint at why its misfiring.  They are currently gapped at .025, I forget why I did that but I know it didn't fix anything so I think I'll open them up to 35 or 40 and see if anything changes.  The OEM gap for the coils I have is 40 so that is where I think I'm heading....and maybe a compression test to see it something's gone wrong.

I want to get the wheels on this weekend and see if I can get a sense of where the toe is....so I know its ready to drive once the clutch fittings arrive.

I distracted myself with GC height.  It is about 16.4"

We won't talk about why I decided to use the engine crane......

I am never ceased to be amazed at what jb weld will hold. I would do the same here. 
 

It will probably work fine with a gap of 15-40 no harm opening it up but likely not the smoking gun. When you pull them, are they dark? Could just be loading up on fuel and fouling if you haven't tuned it all the way yet. Does it clear up at all once heats in the motor? Check cold vs hot leakdown/comp?

For me, mornings bring a calmer view of things so this rear panel that bent when the car fell off the jack that had met all spun up last night...water under the bridge.

The trunk itself is undamaged, so no biggie

My high tech pressure tester says the head is now sealed, that's good news

I reset the front ride height.  There is about a 1/4" of preload in the springs now so 4" under the frame is about as height as it goes unless I put a longer shock in, but 4" is the set point as all good.

Then a quick camber check

LF=1.54  RF=1.32
LR=3.28  RR=2.43

I was targeting F=2.5, R=3 so it needs some work and I haven't checked toe but can see the front so still in a toe out condition so for sure that also needs help

Back to engine work for now.

Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:

I am never ceased to be amazed at what jb weld will hold. I would do the same here. 
 

It will probably work fine with a gap of 15-40 no harm opening it up but likely not the smoking gun. When you pull them, are they dark? Could just be loading up on fuel and fouling if you haven't tuned it all the way yet. Does it clear up at all once heats in the motor? Check cold vs hot leakdown/comp?

We're on the same thought path.  The plug gap was an "I'm not sure what's wrong...I should do something", and as you expected it did nothing. Starting fuel is getting back close to right so now I can see running plug colors better and there are pretty big differences with 2 in the rear bank mostly white, so those are likely the ones dropping while a few others in the front bank are very black.  An over all look says the front bank is 15% or 20% (?) richer than the rear bank.  Compression is 180-190 everywhere, cylinder MAPs are no more than +/-5%. 

Looking back, I had cylinder trim values int he +/-25% which is why I sent the injectors out.  When they came back I put them in flow order, lowest in #1, highest in 12 and used the data sheet to set trim like +/-3%.  So it kinda makes sense that the front bank is rich I guess.  And pre injector testing I didn't have the sparta lambda controllers, I had the internal ECU controllers that I was ignoring so I honestly have no idea what the mixture was, I was just setting it to run good and had the idle VE 15% higher than I have it now based on the lambda readings.

I think I need to get the plugs looking closer cylinder to cylinder and perhaps accept that it whats to be a bit rich at idle.....but plugs matching will be the first step.

On the oil leak battle the garage floor on the passenger side is now dry, not 1 drop after 2 20ish minute runs today so all the really bad leaks are fixed.  On the driver's side there was about a 3-4" puddle an hour after both runs.  I can't tell if its from the corner of the cam cover or the cam end plate so tomorrow I'll re-seal the end plate since that is a lost easier..  I'm close on the leaks though.

I pulled the plugs and they looked a whole lot more right.

Still some black ones so I tweaked the trims some more and I'm back to where I was before with +/-25% numbers and that bothers me a bit. I looked over the TB sync data and its fine.  Checked the TBs with a feeler guage, .003doesn't quite go through.  Really thinking the trim value it the delivered fuel, not including dead time which is about 1.2ms out of a 2.2ms total pulse time so 11% of the pulse?  Not to bad really.

Then I decided to go back to tuning by ear and adjust the fuel until it runs good....I'll see what the plugs look like when it cools down but it does run good...

And it drives again.

The clutch is adjusted about exactly right....push the pedal its disengage and drops into gear nice, but move it at all and the car is in motion.  No wasted travel at all.

It wasn't fully warm on the drive and was wanting to drop cylinders...still lean I thing but I'll look at the plugs.  I did a pretty hard pull followed by a pretty hard brake and the neighbors out doing yard work did not appear amused....so I guess I did it right  

I'm thinking I'm going to print a couple of these venturis that will plug into the stack.  Leave one in #12 which is my linkage attachment point and move the other around with the differential  manometer attached at the bosses.  I'm kinda guessing at a good bore, the small the stronger the signal but the more it alters flow, this is 25mm.  Just another way to check TB sync by MAF instead of MAP....and when I know they are right I'm thinking glue the linkage and be done thinking about it.

I've been playing with cylinder trim to balance the plug colors and for sure the TB adjuster have been moving so new plan is get the TBs sync'd and adjusters glued.  I did a little quick math and I'm thinking my venturi mass flow meter wants to be way closer to a 6mm bore than 25mm

But I put enough material in it to allow it to be bored to 15mm or so...because I didn't do careful math.  But when I went to hit print I realized I don't have enough resin and the print so print tomorrow whenever it gets here and this is likely a Saturday job then let the glue dry over night.  I'm thinking RTV or a urethane adhesive more than jbweld, at least for now.

In the meantime.  Yesterday I was less happy with the clutch...it seemed to maybe drag a little into 1st and reverse so I want to give it a touch more travel.  

There seems to be more brake pedal travel on hard stop then I think there should be so maybe bleed again.  

It is SOOO nice having the power steering working again, what an improvement in driving pleasure.   but I kinda don't love the general feel though, at least not on my couple 0.2 mile around the block drives....almost too light and there is 0 self centering going on.  There are 3 assist levels for the PS and I have it in the middle but I think I need to get the toe set and maybe figure out how to check the caster before doing anything else.

and I've not address the small oil leak on the cam cover yet.

Lots to do....

Call me weird, but I've always liked the idea of an EFI system that used a small range pressure sensor (like maybe a fuel tank pressure/vacuum sensor) in a venturi.  That way you are measuring the airflow directly, like a carburetor does, and it'd work with ITBs without having to have an airbox that funnels to a MAF sensor.