Excited to see it moving so quickly now
Excited to see it moving so quickly now
Population of Bonertown just went up.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
As has the population of TMI City
I had to make up the time I took from the house yesterday so not a lot done on the car. I realized I really needed to rearrange some of the basement stuff that got moved into the shop so I could safely walk and work around the car, that took an hour. getting the engine straight and the motor mounts on another hour, and finished out the night by cleaning and installing the modified 360 oil return pump.
Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the rest of the oil system hooked up and maybe the waterpump and alternator as well...hopefully.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Rigante :
The coolant is hotter because the engine is cooler.
This is counter-intuitive, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation!
mke said:Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the rest of the oil system hooked up and maybe the waterpump and alternator as well...hopefully.
Just seeing that engine with the intakes and TBs installed is like a religious experience at this point. Good luck with your continued push on this!
Woke up early and got the oil filters ready, then remembered....yes, no way to install the front exhaust pipe with the filter in.
And it turned out the exhaust pipe is a real bugger to get onto the already bolted tight headers because they are slip joints so everything has to be about perfect and when its not slipped in place it hits the bellhouse..but I got it.
While I was there I connected up all the wire in that area as well as the fuel lines and then connected and bled the clutch so that little corner is done I think.
its getting.sooooo.close!
Looks awesome in there!
Oil lines connected, they look like spaghetti, which I guess is appropriate?, oil filled and system primed, and the oil seems to be staying in the engine so that's good
Went to install the alternator..oops, water pump first...oops, this hose really should go before the exhaust pipe
But eventually I did at least get the alternator in place, wires on and 1 bolt in....this is the job from hell but that will need to be continued tomorrow.
I'm going to need a new battery it looks like. I was hoping it just needed to be charged but no, its spent. I'm also missing a bunch of hose clamps an a coupling hose...and just realized I didn't look up front yet so there could be more missing. I did get the alternator finished and belt on so that's something. I'll move on the axles, exhaust and wires while I wait for cooling bits to arrive....assuming I get more funding approved.
mke said:I'm going to need a new battery it looks like. I was hoping it just needed to be charged but no, its spent. I'm also missing a bunch of hose clamps an a coupling hose...and just realized I didn't look up front yet so there could be more missing. I did get the alternator finished and belt on so that's something. I'll move on the axles, exhaust and wires while I wait for cooling bits to arrive....assuming I get more funding approved.
Just swap the battery with the one in the comptroller's car.
mke said:assuming I get more funding approved.
Is it too forward of me to want to start a GoFundMe campaign for mke's parts requirements to get this project back on the road?
I, for one, don't want to have to wait any longer to see it. haha
APEowner said:Just swap the battery with the one in the comptroller's car.
oh man...you are trying to get me killed! 
In reply to birdmayne :
LOL.. Lana keeps saying I should start a Patreon account for it.
It is amazing how fast money goes though. Oil and all that, $700, clamps and a couple hoses $40. A battery will be ..$300 with tax? so over a grand gone in 2 weeks. In my head putting it together and firing it up was basically free then I could spend that grand rebuilding the suspension and steering rack to be ready for spring...when I planned to spend the same grand on tires as the ones on the car are literally 20 years old at this point....I have a pretty bad habit of trying to spend the same money (and time) 3-4 times 
mke said:In reply to birdmayne :
....I have a pretty bad habit of trying to spend the same money (and time) 3-4 times
I hear that!!!
axles and exhaust in, coils and wiring next then systems checks while I wait for hoses and clamps I guess. Oh, need to pull the radiator and be sure the water based stuff is all out.
Those valve covers are a work of art. So simple, yet so pretty!
Decided to pull a stump out this afternoon....pulled the hitch off the car instead. Doh!
So now I have yet another project. I did get the stump out with the mower...so yes, the mower is stronger than the bolt on class 2 hitch....well, I think the hitch is fine, its the car that needs some repair.
I came across this today and thought you might like it: another V12 made partly of welding rod:
Syscrush said:I came across this today and thought you might like it: another V12 made partly of welding rod
Interesting rabbit hole. Thanks.
In the video, Pete said "and then we heat treated it to bring it back down to T6". I don't understand what exactly that means but I don't recall mke describing any heat treating (unless I have forgotten). I am curious what HT does in this context.
Holiday so stay clean jobs. I could not remember doing a calibration on the tach after final assembly and I had not...and something wasn't right. pulled it apart, the poor needle decided it was 1 too many disassemblies and fell part, but a little glue, reposition a wire and the tach is right. Then steering wheel back on and fully bolted so that's ready. I need to go through the ECU programming and make sure all the new stuff I worked on is in the main program. There has also been a ne firmware and software release so I'll get the updated so everything is current before I start systems checks.
OHSCrifle said:In the video, Pete said "and then we heat treated it to bring it back down to T6". I don't understand what exactly that means but I don't recall mke describing any heat treating (unless I have forgotten). I am curious what HT does in this context.
Heat treating add hardness and strength to the aluminum, all the factory parts are heat treated prior to any machining. I didn't do it after welding but I've never been sure that was my best decision. The welding rod I used works very well for joining things and not cracking but it is not heat treatable....so heat treating would reharden the welded areas and I was afraid would just make things worse. I could have welded with a heatable rod but then I was worried about mismatched alloys and welds cranking. I really don't know what the right answer is honestly.
In reply to mke :
I have heard a lot about heavily altered cylinder heads relaxing and shifting around like the seat to guide relationships moving or head bolt columns crushing unless they apply whatever heat treating/normalizing/annealing process (I am not a metallurgist) to the head before final machining. Something about internal stresses from parts getting stuck together at 1300F then shrinking down unevenly, aluminum going soft or hard in spots... IANAM, I just like reading about people building 4AFE or B16 or Boss 429 cylinder heads with welding rod and a vision.
Interesting that they were talking about bringing it DOWN to T6. Either my understanding of the processes is flawed or my understanding of the hardness rating is flawed. Or more likely, both.
I thought heat treating was to even out the stresses in the metal. It doesn't make it stronger bit it keeps it from being weak if that makes any sense.
From the mountain bike world, if you weld a frame and can't re-do the heat treat, it's more likely to crack in the heat affected zone near the weld.
I think in an application like this, odds are you will be just fine. That's my completely unqualified opinion based on the amount of stuff I've done that "shouldn't be done that way" and has held up just fine.
In reply to ShawnG :
Stuff like motorcycle and mountain bike frames are often make of 5000 series aluminum which is not hardenable so same strength before and after welding if the correct fill rod is used. The correct post weld heat treatment for something like that would be to normalized it which is a stress relief process...needed or not depends on the application.
356 castings and 6000 series are quite similar and both normally get a T6 which is 1000F for enough time for it to stabilize....30 minute once the core is at full temp maybe, then water quench, then artificial aging at 300-400 for 18 hrs at the lower temp, 6 at the higher maybe? and its hard. Welding heat over ages it, which makes it gummy and weak, weaker than if it had never been heat treated in the 1st place and that is the biggest concern with welding it.
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