FrankenFerrari - V12 Ferrari 308

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

today i learnt

I started roughing it out..the blue is the current hub cut down and the orange the new shaft, the gear will sit in the middle with a bearing on each side.  The internal splines on the blue part are EDM but that;'s is already on the hub I have and the rest is lathe and mill so this I can do in my shop other than the metric thread, but a friend of a friend agreed to let me come visit a lathe that has metric threading. A bit more design work to do but this is the plan

I tackled something SUPER important and slightly blasphemous, not honda engine blasphemous but..... I changed the color of the gemellocattivo badge to the silver/black my car has and them (you may want to sit down) I change the colors on the 308 badge just a little to make the silver brighter and added a black border so it better matched my gemellocattivo badge. Now I'm basically ready to drive 

I mean, that's project complete then right? Hahaha

Teh E36 M3 said:

I mean, that's project complete then right? Hahaha

I know, right?

Older son showed a little interest so I spent some time on little things.  We got the dash panel on passenger side back in place correctly which made me notice the door.  Since I got the car the passenger door has been quite stiff but I don't use that door so no real issue   .....but yesterday I had a look at it after my younger son struggled with it a bit on his ride.  Zero luck getting grease into the grease fittings so i hosed it down with penetrating oil and will do that a few more times before I accept reality and rebuild the hinges

The muffler looks pretty crooked...not sure if I built it that way or something has moved but that needs attention.

I really want to get the suspension bushings replaced

My data logs show no reading for rear axle speed and odd and not matching reading for front wheel speeds.  This all needs to be working right to do traction control so that needs to be looked at.

Its a long list this year.

In reply to NY Nick :

Hm. 3d-printed shifter gate copies in New Years game boxes?

Santa brought me a blue/tan GTS and new pedal covers

Before diving back in on the V12 issues I had to get the driver ready for inspection which included fixing the p-brake and a little pin I broke in the process...enter the kids new printer.  These things have gotten good.....I see new 308 side mirror plastic bits and maybe dash vents in my near future

In reply to mke :

That looks remarkably like the Mercedes units I have had to replace for binding.

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

In reply to mke :

That looks remarkably like the Mercedes units I have had to replace for binding.

Yes, my daily driver, a 2014 GLK350 hand-me-down from my wife and it was a binding issue.  It uses a fancy spring clutch instead of a ratchet and one end of the spring had popped out causing it to bind.  The part I repaired is the "ratchet" which I mistakenly thought was the problem but it turned out it has no actual function other than making the click, click, click noise we're all used to hearing when you push the p-brake.

With that repaired and brakes and bulbs checked that is ready to go and I swapped the ferrari back into the shop and can get on with pulling the engine

I couldn't help myself, I had to mess with the mirror bits.  They are pretty close but not quite perfect yet so a few little edits and 1 more print it looks like.

My printing got a little more problematic.  I was happy with the parts so I painted then but when I went to install them they made the mirrors look awful, so I pulled the mirrors to paint them and noticed how bad the connectors were and thought maybe that was why they don't work...but no it look like I need to find some replacement parts.......

It's amazing how fast the rabbit hole sneaks up on you. Next thing you know everything is blown apart and you think "how did I end up here?"

I am... so happy to see this thread continuing, and continuing in mostly the right direction.

I sometimes like little projects that can be called finished as a morale booster.  I did put the car up on stands Saturday morning before deciding to go on a boondoggle.  I'm thinking I might have a look at the air box and coil relocation now too while everything is together and I'm not rushing to drive it knowing that it's not in anyway safe for the engine to bo running with open tabs that point straight up all but guaranteeing little rocks and such getting sucked in.

I ordered a couple of these filters, $40 each

Blue like my car.  I'm not really sure they are big enough but I think they will fit so....

The plan is to try to get them over by the side ducts so they might show...hence the blue

I'm thinking 4" air pipe and again I'm not sure its really big enough but I don't really see how I get anything bigger in there so......

I also ordered a plate to make the bottom of the air box and got looking at clearances,  the hood,  and stacks.  I have about 3" under the hood

The stacks want to be about 3/4" tall so the stock hood seems fine.....but is fine really what I want?  I don't know  I'm pretty tempted to reshape the engine bump to be more V12ee but  its not required

Figuring out the cfm is simple...dynomation gives it to me, 1150.  Divide by 2 is 575 cfm per duct.  But what exactly to do with that?  

Google found me a couple places that had a clever but not really correct take on it with a formula to said if the speed in the duct is below the vehicle speed the loss is zero...that's not right but it says I need a pair of 7in ducts.

I think the more right approach is to just look at hvac duct sizing charts which give a pressure drop per 100ft equivalent length.  A 90deg turn is 12 diameters and I will have 2 plus smaller bends maybe so call it 36 total?  4in is 1/3 ft so back to 12 ft plus 2 actual ft is 14 equivalent maybe?  600cfm in a 4" duct is off the duct chart but about 10in h2o pressure drop per 100ft, so 1.4 in h2o pressure drop.  That is 0.35kPa, meaning I'll lose 1/3 of 1 % hp or about 3hp leaving more than plenty. 

It also leads to 3" air box height it fine so no need to mess with the deck lid.  That is if I'm thinking about it right 

Those are what I use, or rather the Autozone equivalent, which may cost $40 now... One unit posed a slight restriction at the top end on a 270ish horse rotary.  Was seeing 1-2kpa of vacuum at 9000rpm.

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

Those are what I use, or rather the Autozone equivalent, which may cost $40 now... One unit posed a slight restriction at the top end on a 270ish horse rotary.  Was seeing 1-2kpa of vacuum at 9000rpm.

That is the fear 

My hope is that 12 cyl is very near constant flow  and the airbox will damp whatever peaks there are and it will make the absolute most of what's available.  I have to believe it will be better than any kind of filter on top because there is a decent vacuum behind the rear window that draws the hot air up so double bad.

The other option is big filters in the trunk I guess.  Maybe when the day comes I'll do a with/without arir box cover dyno run and decide how sad I am.

Got going on a bottom for the airbox I'd started years ago.  im probably going to do some cutting on the ends for the air feeds but I figured easiest to make the bottom match the top as a starting point.

well what can i say, ive read evey word, studied every picture and 

MIND BLOWN at this project 

Spent the morning CADing.  I think the plan is the stacks will bolt to the TB and secured the air box.  I'll print them and see it they live, if not I can make aluminum versions and this also lets me try different heights pretty easily if I'm really feeling motivated on dyno day.

I got the box to a test fit...most of the screws go but the TB hole need a little more work, very close though.  I kind or like it and am planning the factory red wrinkle paint

The filters are going to be a challenge it looks like....

That's looking great!

In reply to TurboFource :

Thanks!

Today I made custom scribe, I know there is a name for it but i don't recall, to transfer the TB locations to the airbox so now it fit pretty well and the first couple stacks are printing.

I started looking at the air filter and really want to cut away a bit of the fender to make it fit nicer so i thought it best to just step away and process before continuing.

Power went out about an hour before the print finished so the first 2 stacks are scrap but other than the missing side they look pretty good.  I need to get the right screws.