Klienes Kabriolett - My 2001 Boxster S

In reply to docwyte :

Sorry for the delayed response

I went with the Foxwell NT530 and selected the Porsche option for my 996, setup was a bit clunky. I cleared my airbag light and was able to test front and rear fans, looks like I can see cam deviation in the DME section. 

Damnit, Rockauto!

OK, a few updates! I got the proper wheel bearings and new axles all installed, oil pan back on, and everything seems good to go. Took a couple of test drives and she's nice and quiet now, no more howling from the rear end.

So, I turned my attention to cosmetic matters. You may recall that my hood (frunk lid?) was looking rather poorly:

Basically, it looked like it had a bunch of rock chips, and someone made a very amateur attempt to fix them. They used one of those little bottles of touchup paint, then attempted to smooth the paint out by lightly sanding each spot. Which is a decent start, but they didn't do anymore than that. So you end up with all these little blobs of paint surrounded by dull areas. It looks like there may have been some attempt to even out the whole panel, but all it did was make the whole thing look dull and scratched.

So, as a long time detailing nerd, I could not let this stand. Fortunately, I have some of the tools of the trade:

The Makita on the left is my big motha. I only bust it out for jobs like this where serious paint correction is needed. It has the potential to burn through paint pretty quickly if you're not careful with it. It's bitten me a few times in the past, so it gets treated with utmost respect. The Porter-Cable 7424XP on the right is smaller, less powerful, but it's a random-orbit model and is much safer to use. It does the lighter, finishing-type work. The two compounds are Meguiars 105 and 205 and are all I've ever really needed. Not pictured, sandpaper and various foam buffing pads.

Yes, I said sandpaper. I started off by wetsanding the whole panel, first with 1500 grit, then 2000:

Scary, right? Well, not to worry, I started off with the Makita, a heavy-cut pad, and some 105. Here's a progress shot:

Getting better. After that, I went over it twice with the P-C and 205, once with a medium pad, and once with a finishing pad. Here's how I ended up:

It's still not perfect, but it's a damn sight better than it was. After that I went over the whole car with 205 and a finishing pad on the P-C. At that point it was getting pretty late, but I still need to wash it to get rid of all the polishing compound, then a coat of wax to protect this newly-revived paint, and I'm good to go!

Nothing quite so dramatic as paint correction, but I did also give the interior a thorough cleaning. Sometimes you find relics of the past in old cars:

To be fair, the last Apple device I owned did use that connector, but that was like 10 years ago.

Also, my drivers side floor mat is pretty hosed:

I'm sure I could find a decent replacement for that one, since the passenger's side is fine, but I'm thinking of going with something different. Cocomats are cool, though not cheap. Suncoast has some nicer-looking ones, too.

Congrats.  This worked out so much better than you feared when you brought it home.

Finishing touch, a bit of Collonite 845:

The final look:

It's all ready to go, just in time for winter!

Since it's winter, the car is down, and I have a small oil leak that I suspect is the RMS, I've decided to dive in with both feet and take on the clutch/IMS/RMS job. Working on preliminary steps right now.

Easy part, removing all the undertrays and rear sway bar:

On to the exhaust. This is a Cincinnati car, but it does look like it experienced some winters. Typical rust belt exhaust bolt removal:

Gotta remove the rear bumper to get to some of the fasteners on the muffler:

I love working on German cars.

More to come.

Slow progress continues:

Not too bad of a job. Between the Bentley manual and the 101 Projects book, it was spelled out pretty well. Just took some time.

Next step is to pull the clutch and figure out if I have a single or double-row bearing. Then it's time to start spending money.

Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) said:

Slow progress continues:

Not too bad of a job. Between the Bentley manual and the 101 Projects book, it was spelled out pretty well. Just took some time.

Next step is to pull the clutch and figure out if I have a single or double-row bearing. Then it's time to start spending money.

Faster progress than I made.  Looking good.  I guess the manual is lighter than the auto.  My HF Trans jack couldn't take it.

Autos need the storage capacity for all the soul crushing defeat they absorb over their lifecycle Adrian

Paint repair looks very nice Tom.  

In reply to wawazat :

Ouch.  Not true, but still ouch

A bit more progress, and a decision coming.

Clutch and flywheel off. Here's the clutch disc:

I haven't measured it, but it looks pretty worn to me. New Sachs clutch will be incoming ASAP.

The result of my leaking RMS is quite a mess:

And the IMS flange:

I'd like to get out there and clean it up and take a better pic, but it looks to me like I have the dual-row bearing. My car is an 01, so it could have either one.

So. Now I have a decision to make. I need to start ordering stuff. One way or another I'm going to need an IMS tool kit. If I order a ceramic bearing from LN, I think I can borrow one. That takes a bit of the sting out of the $900 they charge for that bearing. But if I do the OEM style bearing from Pelican, I'll need to buy the kit outright for ~$250 or so. Nonetheless, I'm leaning toward the Pelican kit. Realistically, this is a Boxster, it's a fairly cheap car, so investing a bunch of money to make it bulletproof isn't worth it, especially since it already has 108k miles on it. And while I do think that the ceramic bearing is better, is it $700 better? And my understanding is that I don't get a warranty on it because I'm doing it myself and the engine hasn't been pre-qualified.

I also need to replace the RMS. I see there's a pricey tool for that, too.  Is it really necessary? I've done a lot of seals like that using big sockets, chunks of aluminum, and other makeshift things. Surely I can make those work with this RMS?

Wow, good timing on the clutch, that's toast.

Warning, bit on an IMS bearing rant coming.  I read everything I possibly could on IMS bearings before I got my car, and came to the conclusion that when I do it I'll go with the OEM one.  There are dozens of threads on 986 forums, Pelican, Rennlist and other places.  The conclusions that I came to after reading everything, literally hundreds and hundreds of pages are these:

• The IMSB is potential a very significant issue, but you need to look past the hysteria. No doubt, IF it fails, in most (but not all) cases the engine is toast. The early cars had a single row bearing through some time in mid-01, then they switched to a duel row bearing from mid 01 onwards. The single row bearing seems to have about a 1% failure rate and the duel row a 4-8% failure rate. In some places I’ve seen a blanket 5%failure.  This is way way off the impression Jack Raby and LN Engineering will give you.
• In most cases if it fails the engine is toast as the intermediate shaft flays around and bits of bearings go thrashing through the engine and destroys all sorts of things. There are at least two cars on 986 forums that are still running post failure though. One in one of the Scandinavian countries that was caught just as it failed and another in Texas. The Texas car owner rebuilt the engine himself with a new shaft purchased off e-bay.
• As far as bearings are concerned. You can get a new Porsche one, get an upgrade kit from Pelican Parts for $189 (and Pelican always charge top price, plus Porsche tax, plus 'we're Pelican so F you tax'), or LN Engineering do an upgrade with a ceramic bearing for $899. Note. Some people have reverse engineered the LN Ceramic bearing part number and sourced their own for less than $100.
• There is no doubt that LN Engineering and Jack Raby did an amazing job researching and putting their kit into production.  HAving said that they have a vested interest in promoting both their kit, and the need for it.  I may have considered it worthwhile when (as originally launched) it was sold as a once and done, fit and forge forever part.  But these days their normal ceramic retrofit are recommended for 4 year / 50k miles or 5 year / 75k miles.  They don't offer the lifetime warranty until you step up to their permanent solution for $1900.  In all cases to get the warranty it has to be fitted by them for several more $k.
• IF you go through all those old threads that people refer back to for predictions of 10%, 20% or more failure rates you'll find it was JAck Raby and LN Engineering who were leading those conversations and pushing the higher numbers.

Conclusion?  Go with the Porsche part and ignore the LN Hype and scaremongering.

I'd really like AAZCD's take on this as well.

Couple of things. The earlier cars had the dual-row, the later ones were single. From the LN website:

Although the early dual row bearing and larger bearing used in 2006 though 2008 model year vehicles have a relatively low failure rate (reported at 1% by the Eisen Class Action Lawsuit), the single row ims bearing used from 2000 through 2005 had a reported failure rate of 8% under warranty. However in the years since the Eisen settlement, failure rates have increased the longer the original bearings have been in service, so anyone with a 1997-2005 Boxster or 911 should have their intermediate shaft bearing replaced as part of preventative maintenance to prevent catastrophic engine failures in their Porsche engines caused by failure of the IMS bearing.

Second, who sells the Porsche bearing? I can't find it online. If I have to go through a dealer, I have serious doubts that it's going to be less than the $190 Pelican kit.

I did a quick web search and found this link  https://tunersmotorsports.com/trs-development/ims-bearing-direct-oil-feed/

And if you go thru their order process they indicate either a single row or double row SKF bearing.   No part number given, but might be somewhere to start. 

Another web link that came up in my search was to a seller on Amazon... (I'm in Canada so what is available to me is much less that what you can get on the US site)... so might be another possible avenue...

Good luck...

Gordon

I'm sitting at the Tag Agency (DMV) waiting to renew a few cars and saw your update. Here's some thoughts.

If you are doing the clutch, you might as well do the IMS bearing. If you want to save money, the Pelican kit should be fine. I'll see if I can find the quote later, but LN produced the Pelican kit as a cheaper alternative. The bearing is the same spec as the original single row used in the 2.7Ls and 3.2Ls. It has an improved center bolt and seal. Plan to replace it again if you ever do the clutch again.

Unless the design you choose requires an oil feed, I've been convinced that oil feeds are not needed and may create more problems depending on their design and oil source. Removing the outer seal of a standard bearing to allow 'splash' lubrication has become a standard practice.

I have not replaced the IMSbearing on my '04 Special Edition yet, but I plan to. Still undecided if I will use the IMS solution or an LN dual row, but I am going with an LN product.

I put the Pelican kit in my wife's '01. No complaints, but if I was prone to worrying, I would have gone with a dual row LN.

My '97 has over 185k miles on the original bearing. I have no plans to replace it and expect engine wear to kill it eventually rather than the IMS.

For the RMS, correct placement is critical. 13mm deep from somewhere to somewhere else. As I remember it was slightly set into the case. You do not want to go back in there just because it was shallow or crooked. There are plenty of people who have made a good tool with PVC or 3d printing. I have seen plenty of inexpensive alternatives to the Porsche tool sold online.

Borrow IMS tools. I'll check mine, but I think I messed up the treads using it for an unintended purpose with an impact wrench. Ask on Rennlist or the 986Forum.

So how much will the IMS, clutch, axles & various bits cost? 

I like German cars, never had a Porsche but always admired them. Had some BMW's, a 1983 Mercedes Diesel (which I really miss just for the sheer bullet proof reliability), 2001 Audi allroad which was a great car only because the PO had the dealer fix  everything on the car to the cost of $7,000 then his wife wanted an SUV with 3 row seating. After getting it home, there were receipts for $6,000 more in repairs in the glove box from the owner prior to them. We got it for $5,000.

After just finishing the 228,000 mile '04 TSX last weekend -installed a low mileage JDM K24A, new T chain, tensioner, guides, water pump etc, a low mileage transmission, bigger sway bars, AEM air filter, all filters & fluids for the grand total of @$1,400...it sounds like just doing the IMS on the Boxster can be this much. 

I know it's a very different league of car but that's why I really like Honda's. It's a fun driving car that will last probably another 200,000 miles & will just need tires, brakes & wheel bearings.

Hmmm, will a K24A fit in a Boxster/Cayman? 
 

mdshaw said:

So how much will the IMS, clutch, axles & various bits cost? 

Well, I just placed a couple of orders, and the total is right around $800. That's for a new clutch, air/oil separator, a spin-on oil filter adapter, an RMS, the Pelican IMS kit, and a few miscellaneous things like cam end plugs and a clutch alignment tool.

I have a line on a LN IMS tool kit, we'll see if that works out. For the RMS tool, I need to sort out my 3D printer, because I found a design for that on Thingiverse.

In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :

Thats not bad. Ive been mentally preparing for this myself. My box has 92k on the original clutch and Im the 4th owner. 

Where are you sourcing parts? Im guessing RA, they have the best clutch price Ive found. What about the flywheel? Are you going to resurface or replace?

Paint work is beautiful! Im very jealous of that color

Good call on the AOS.  I found it a pain to do with the trans out.  Don't know how people manage it with the trans in.  Sounds like you're moving along well.  Keep it up.

The Porsche tax is high as you guys say.

This would have been @$150 for a Honda/Acura & no IMS. Maybe a chain tensioner at 150,000 miles & can get to it  by just removing the small tensioner cover.

spandak said:

In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :

Thats not bad. Ive been mentally preparing for this myself. My box has 92k on the original clutch and Im the 4th owner. 

Where are you sourcing parts? Im guessing RA, they have the best clutch price Ive found. What about the flywheel? Are you going to resurface or replace?

Paint work is beautiful! Im very jealous of that color

I actually got the clutch and AOS from AutohausAZ, they were a bit cheaper than RockAuto. The IMS kit came from Pelican, obviously. The only thing I got from RA was the clutch release bearing, they were WAY cheaper than anyone else for that. I've found that, when buying parts, especially for German cars, you need to check multiple sources.

As for the flywheel, there's a procedure for checking it in the 101 projects book, I intend to do that to see if it needs to be replaced.

mdshaw said:

The Porsche tax is high as you guys say.

It's worth it. 

Or, at least that's what I tell myself. FWIW, if I could have found a haflway decent S2000 for under $10k, I would have seriously considered it.

That was what I liked about the early (2.5L) base boxster. Theoretically the lowest rate of IMS failure (and all the piston/cylinder wall issues which are arguably a bigger concern than the IMS) but if it did happen to explode it's also the only one of the engines that you can actually get for normal-ish junkyard prices. Like there's usually at least one or two on ebay for $2k or less at any given time. (or...it's a $5k car, just park it where it blew up and walk away)

When I did the clutch on mine, I got the clutch kit from rockauto for ~$300 and when I figured out the flyhweel was trashed I got a good condition used one from ebay for ~$175. New prices on flywheels are ridiculous but that's the case with pretty much any dual mass flywheel, not just porsches.

The thing that really gets expensive is labor. If you're able to do most of your own work and don't value your time highly, most of the time the difference in parts cost to any other car is minimal. The difference is the level of disassembly required to do some of the more in depth stuff and the fact that dealers and european indy shops tend to know their audience and know that they can charge big for labor. Also there tends to be a decent amount of special tools required as you're learning here.