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I still love this turd

Shavarsh
Shavarsh Reader
11/9/21 10:36 a.m.

Well done! I agree it could be a bit lower. Stoked to see your getting some time behind the wheel!

Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter)
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
11/11/21 2:52 p.m.

Loving this build, glad you're finally getting some much deserved seat time!

bonylad
bonylad HalfDork
11/11/21 3:36 p.m.

In reply to V6Buicks :

Well said. I sometimes forget the fun factor in my builds. I get caught up in the details.....I miss the big picture.  Your build has inspired me to the point I was looking for a V6 Camaro for some low buck GN fun. Good to hear you've sorted this Sir.  Keep it up and cant wait to see whats next!

autocomman
autocomman Reader
11/11/21 3:39 p.m.
bonylad said:

While I am no pro, I do know signal, power and ground wires - especially signal need to be soldered. Crimps and butt connectors can add resistance to a wire and throw signals out of whack. Here at the GM dealer I am the SM at, its a common thing. GM implicitly states to solder wires.  Im not sure but in the pic it looks like they are crimped?

I gotta say it's bizzare GM says to solder the connections.  There are no soldered wires in a vehicle harnesses, ever.  Everything is crimped and for good reason.  Solder joints fatigue and crack with vibration, guess what a car does all the time, vibrate lol.  

I could understand this if techs are consistently not able to make a proper crimp and Insulate, but I've seen way more bad solder repairs than anything else.  Cold solder joints mostly.  A proper crimp cont come apart and should have a negligible influence on resistance.  Only way the crimp can be an issue is in you broke into a shielded wire bundle breaking the shield to make a crimp, the wires were dirty or corroded when crimped, crimp is the wrong size and/or not crimped properly, or there was liquid intrusion causing corrosion.

Best one I ever saw though wasnt any of this.  It was coolant migration through the harness, this was at VW.  Coolant ends up in the trunk, because of a leaky level sensor in the coolant expansion tank...yep.  the whole harness has to be replaced.  Glad you got the mess worked out though dude, I love low buck beater things like this.  Didn't even think about the 411 and the crank tooth issues.  I don't know what the limits are with the SC ecu either as far as boost, maybe that's an option before blowing it all up for a holly?  Should be easy to find an SC ecu or reflash for that

bonylad
bonylad HalfDork
11/15/21 8:26 a.m.

In reply to autocomman :

Well to be clear its approved on certain connections. Even then you can only do it once. You cant have more than one as it introduces too much resistance in the wiring. If memory serves some harnesses you can get away with. Say an 02 sensor connection you may be able to get away with. But say for a SRS harness.....its once.

V6Buicks
V6Buicks Reader
11/22/21 1:07 p.m.

Thank you everybody for the kind words and support!  I'm happy that I got this car running right when I did.  Not only did I get to party with my groomsmen a little bit the night before my wedding, but I had no unfinished projects to dread while returning from my honeymoon!  It was a great feeling.  It also resulted in the first real action video.  Line lock work great!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqzU7MBebx4

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/22/21 1:11 p.m.

In reply to V6Buicks :

because berkeley those tires!!!

V6Buicks
V6Buicks Reader
11/22/21 2:14 p.m.
autocomman said:
I don't know what the limits are with the SC ecu either as far as boost, maybe that's an option before blowing it all up for a holly?  Should be easy to find an SC ecu or reflash for that

There really isn't much difference in tunability between the NA and SC PCMs.  The SC files do read a 2-bar map.  However, 2 bar is essentially worthless for any expansion, the resolution is much too low for a 3 bar upgrade let alone 4, and the SC file will not play with the Camaro body controls anyway.  There are people who have "gotten away" with ditching the MAF, but I don't think they realize how terrible their tunes are.  Their PCM is just guessing within massive windows.  It's a big rabbit hole regardless of which direction I take.  Most people opt to work with what they have in some way or another.  Mine works as-is, but beyond the retuning for my future cam swap, standalone WOT box, and 7440 PCM swap for re-enabling knock retard, I believe I'd either be sacrificing some form of reliability or doing more work than it's worth to retain the factory harness.

It kinda comes down to how much you're willing to suffer I guess.  Personally, I'm growing to dislike this DIS system.  It's very tunable and reliable, but their age is starting to show.  The ICMs and coils hate heat, and my car makes a ton of it.  Relocation to a cooler spot helps, but it comes at the expense of mile long plug wires.  COP or CNP conversions are possible with a factory ECM, but it involves the building of custom circuit boards, archaic turbo Buick parts, limited information, and still not having lunch control.  There's also the ICM "stacking" mod which is basically a hack that supposedly allows you to open up your spark plugs at the expense of your coils burning up and questionable results.  If I had the ambition to deal with all that, I'd definitely rather bite the bullet and start over with a better documented EMS that has endless possibilities.  Speed density tuning with more resolution than the stock MAF file, CNPs with only simple wiring, no lift shift AND lunch control with just the clicks of a few buttons, and flex-fuel capability with just the addition of a sensor are my main draws to the Holley.  Adding fuel pressure or anything else I desire to my logs is just icing on the cake.

All this talk of course only applies if you're ready to send a 3800 to the freaking moon though.  I never had (still don't) immediate plans to go bananas (600+ whp) with this car, but I know how this song goes.  I'm falling more in love with the car all the time.  The more I mess with it, the more I itch to go even faster.  It's a disease.  I'm not ditching the GM equipment yet.  In fact, I plan to have it professionally tuned with a 7440 once I do a cam swap.  From there though, I'll be really pushing the limits of the stock PCM tunability if I want to keep it streetable.

 

By the way... I bought a cam.  laugh It won't be installed any time soon though.  For one, I just got done sealing up the front end of the engine again.  I don't want to risk the car being down again next summer!  Besides, this cam will require even heavier valve springs and stock rocker lift.  I think my brand new LS6 springs and 1.9:1 roller rockers deserve at least season of  cheap shens!

GCrites80s
GCrites80s HalfDork
11/22/21 8:34 p.m.

Re: launch control. At least with '98 and up F-body you have those high-pressure rear brakes that let you hold a lot more boost on the line as compared to a stock Regal's drums. And bigger tires.

V6Buicks
V6Buicks Reader
11/23/21 6:14 a.m.

In reply to GCrites80s :

Very true.  I wouldn't be worrying about it at all if the car was an automatic.  I just have no experience in launching a car a with a manual.  Seat time might eventually give me free launch control.

autocomman
autocomman Reader
12/9/21 2:37 a.m.

All great points and I totally understand why you want to go aftermarket EFI. Makes perfect sense. I don't know what the limit is on 3800 as far as power before they really get unhappy. I thought it was in the 3 to 400 horsepower range before you're like really starting to push the envelope. Maybe that's just what the supercharger and the capabilities of the original ECU. I've never really dived that deep into it. I do love the project though cheap cars that you can just beat the crap out of just because. But you can still start them up and drive them all the time. It's best of both worlds.

V6Buicks
V6Buicks Reader
12/9/21 12:35 p.m.
autocomman said:

All great points and I totally understand why you want to go aftermarket EFI. Makes perfect sense. I don't know what the limit is on 3800 as far as power before they really get unhappy. I thought it was in the 3 to 400 horsepower range before you're like really starting to push the envelope. Maybe that's just what the supercharger and the capabilities of the original ECU. I've never really dived that deep into it. I do love the project though cheap cars that you can just beat the crap out of just because. But you can still start them up and drive them all the time. It's best of both worlds.

Agreed!  Luckily, these engines are actually proven to be extremely over-engineered.  The bottom ends on these things are proven to produce well over 800hp as long as care and attention are put into the right places.  I once believed that the higher compression NA version was a lot weaker, but I've personally witnessed a twin-charged LeSabre with it's original L36 short block and camshaft push 500hp and 700lb/ft!  As long as your tune is spot on and your craftsmanship is good, these engines have very few limits.

I don't have a lot in terms of updates, but I'll talk anyway since I'm here.  I scored some lift time from a friend of a friend, so I decided to stop by with a 12 pack for his fridge and get to work!  The plan was to replace my rear main seal and adjust my TOB out a bit.

To make a long story short.  Pulling the transmission out was a huge waste of time.  What wasn't a huge waste of time was making that flywheel cover because it kept my flywheel dry enough to notice that my rear main seal wasn't even leaking!  We just cleaned everything up, adjusted the TOB in hopes of fixing the growling I heard with the clutch engaged, and went for a quick drive.

Fail.  The growling was still there which probably means that my input shaft is not aligned with the crank very well.  The oil leak was back and only made enough of a mess to tell where it was coming from.  Once again, my turbo drain plumbing is a wreck.  The flange fitting at the turbo is fine, and so are the hose connections.  However, something is wrong with both hard line connections.

This is the third time I've had turbo drain leaks due to cheap/junky parts.  I'm not messing around anymore.  $120 at Summit got me three Fragola fittings, 5 ft of Fragola stainless braided PTFE hose, and a set of Earl's vise jaws.  It's time to make this thing seal once and for all!  I'm not happy about the growl, but I've decided to let it go until other issues begin or the growling gets louder.  The transmission slides into the clutch disk and pilot bearing easier than the T5 ever did, so I'm not exactly convinced that this noise is even part of an issue.  Maybe TKXs are just a little noisey.

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