Go_Gators said:catching up... i took the engine down the short block. pulled the cam.... turns out its a vengenace racing VRX5, 601/605 lift. not in the greatest of condition...
added a new cam (same model) and full set of LS7 lifters to the purchase...
Can i buy this slightly fmdamaged cam for my challenge car?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
absolutely.
I found this coolant hose on McMaster, and ordered some for my TVR project. It's pretty nice stuff. It's wire-reinforced and rated for pressure and vacuum. I don't have any pictures of it, but I can take some if you want.
Fun project! I always like seeing what you're up to, and I appreciate the driver's perspective you offer.
In reply to TVR Scott :
appreciate it! probably overly conservative, but i wouldnt want to use it on the pump discharge side due to temp rating... otherwise ratings/specs looks good. if it were the same price as the silicone hose i would run with it... buts its about twice the price and since my run is pretty long that adds up!
In reply to Go_Gators :
Sure. Trade-offs always!
For weight/cost/strength, you could run thin-walled aluminum tubing as much as possible and then only use flex line where required. McMaster has a different vacuum-rated coolant line that's good to 350 f. I hadn't seen it before. Again, it's in the $13/ft range, so probably not what you're looking for.
Also, totally different question for you. On your camber-adding a-arm mod, you mentioned do die penetrant testing. What did you use for that, and can you share your process?
In reply to TVR Scott :
yea, and thats a trade-off too. i dont really have any means of bending aluminum tube and pre-bent stuff it aint cheap either. also, cant weld it myself. the planned plumbing route is nearly entirely through the frame rails so, hard piping was something i considered,but wouldnt be very efficient.
my buddy who welded the roll-cage and does all the important welding on the cage, Buck G, does weld inspecting professionally! He did the dye pen testing, i know its a great means to ensure you do not have surface cracks that you wouldnt be able to discern with your own eye, but as for a process, i would be consulting youtube!
In reply to Go_Gators :
Will check out some 'tubes on metal inspection!
fully committed at this point. the frame has been delicately cut to accommodate. there is a plan to truncate the frame to cradle bolts. the entire plumbing arrangement has been ordered and a entry point for the hoses has been made on the passenger side frame rail near the water pump.
additionally, the entire exhaust run, the over the axle portion had to be adjusted to make room above for the radiator, is now 3" dia.
plan for today is boxing in the driver frame rail. making mounting brackets and truncating the two impeeding frame to cradle bolts on the passenger frame rail.
More progress pics of the radiator mounting effort...
this is the reinforced entry point for the hoses at the motor.
for the hose to pass through the frame the bolts securing the cradles to the frame had to be truncated as they pass through the frame.
its all back together.
The electrical and coolant plumbing is pulled through the passenger frame rail and the engine has ran (briefly no radiator at the time). Link to time lapse of the engine reassembly and first start up on the full length 3" exhaust:
engine reassembly and first start
it still hasnt been back on the road due to christmas related delays, shooting for road test this weekend.
The LS1-KART has been back on the road for nearly a month now, without anomaly. Logged more than 200 miles including a few 25+ mile stints on the interstate, albeit in cooler than normal temperatures. So, not a true test of highway air flow to the radiator. IN a variety of driving situations the temp hasnt budged from the ~195 range.
This saturday is our first autocross of the 2020 season, i feel like its good to go!!!
Looking at a few upcoming projects on to accomplish before the FLA heat returns. i am leaning towards swapping my wing elements, making the 18" upper element the lower element and the 12" lower element the new vertical. Also, since that would lower the overall height i would lower the side plates by ~8".
After that, i plan to truncate the front frame more and build a new bumper setup, space that was previously occupied by the radiator. Hope to lose another 10-20 lbs in that effort by fabricating the new bumper from thin wall tube, probably 1.5" exhaust tube bought in prebent sections.
Pics of the rear radiator and rear battery installs *complete*.
the next 3 post are intentionally in sequence... first pic....
second pic...
and the third pic...
Yes, that is the tow truck driver.
Yes, my daughter lowered the disabled kart into the driveway.
I am making memories here. that is what i am doing.
in my 6th run of 2020 Event 1, opening of the third season for the kart.... the harmonic balancer bolt backed out and the balancer was retained only by the rack and pinion being in the way.
oil film was well distributed around the front of the vehicle. but not on the radiator!
i replaced the balancer wiht an ATI superdamper and put a new GM bolt in when i did the recent top end refresh. i put blue loctite and hit at full blast with a large pneumatic impact wrench. guess that wasnt enough.
Common problem on an LS, that bolt needs like a gazillion lbs ft of torques.
Go_Gators said:and the third pic...
Yes, that is the tow truck driver.
Yes, my daughter lowered the disabled kart into the driveway.
I am making memories here. that is what i am doing.
Sorry for this inconvenient experience......but this shot is top 10 for 2020 best of....thanks
Go_Gators said:
Those tires make me happy
In reply to Go_Gators :
Yeah, I had a three foot breaker bar and all my weight to hit the MFG specs, and still barely made it.
I suggest pinning it on this next go-around. The pin will make the damper not rotate, so the bolt won't back out. Theoretically...
And your new seal again, new bolt, etc, etc (things you already know!). I hated that job- had to move so many things. Will be much easier with the radiator remounted though!!
In reply to rustybuckets :
yep! that is the plan. the timing is quite convenient (after the radiator move), so really just the accessory system and rack. i think i may even be able to leave the water pump in place and not crack into that system...
fun stuff!
Now featuring a REAR WEIGHT BIAS!!!!
On a borrowed set of scales i was able to weigh the kart again before commencing the balancer rework.
with 1/4 tank of fuel, no driver and otherwise in race trim (no fenders, etc) she is at 2660 lbs.
LF 654
RF 658
LR 678
RR 670
that comes out to a 49/51 rear bias!!!
with me in the car, its at 2830 lbs.
for reference, pre-cage, completely stripped the chassis and drivetrain were 2350 lbs.
Event 2 was yesterday and it was good. Between myself, co-driver and a couple fun runs for another driver it put in 14 runs and made it ~40 miles to and from the event with out skipping a beat. Equates to a 1/2 tank of premium fuel... For the first time in a long time, due to the co-drive, we were actual to build up some heat in the R888r-es and it felt great! few pics i took on the way, since my co-driver drove us, note, it was cold for florida (mid-forties)...
influencing a local youth (his dad brought an R8 V10)....
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