In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Nice job on the butterfly brace.
Im way more happy with the transmission above it.
Think I'm going to call it quits today while im ahead!
Nice progress.
Challenge budget so far:
previous challenge budget: 1709.68
recoup total: 820
new money:
pulled some fittings I couldn't use from the budget, and added some I scrounged from boxes in the shop.
Used 3 of the 5 dorman fittings, so I pulled that as well.
So pretty much I just did budget cleanup for this.
Recoup: 820
new total: 1882.05
after the last update, we spent a LOT of time measuring the clutch, hydraulics, etc and doing math. Wanted to make sure wed have enough movement for disengagement. According to the measuring and math, we do! So I put the new clutch in, loctite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, etc.
20180702_165318 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180714_105744 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180714_110041 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
then I put the trans in.
nope.
First the trans fouled the passengers side header. So I pulled it out.
Found out that with the thermostat housing welded to the lower intake, the engine cant pivot far enough down to have the bellhousing clear. So I walked away and did other things for a while. It had stopped being fun.
So, were back on it now. The reason? A clutch explosion in the duster. Stopped me cold on that project. And I was going through withdrawals of blank sheet hot rodding.
Friday, dad and I dropped the engine and cross member out the bottom, and bolted the trans to the engine on the cradle. Took the opportunity to shorten the bump stops, reinstall the headers, install the fuel lines, etc.
20180810_101203 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
shifter coming through the insulation reminded me of the scene from aliens....
20180810_120931 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
but, we got it all run home and butterfly brace installed to boot.
20180812_120458 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
today I worked on plumbing. Got all the brake lines tightened down, heater hoses and fuel lines run, lower radiator hose, and mocked up the upper hose.
20180812_100908 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
starting to get excited now. Next stop is wiring, and yanking the rear suspension for bent parts replacement, torsen install, painting, etc.
rob, these are for you:
I solid mounted the rondevous alternator low, using the motor mount and triangulating to an unused bolt. A Saturn vue donated the idler to delete the power steering pump. I used the stock tensioner with one of the unused smooth idler pullies swapped in place of an unused spot on the timing chain cover (that appears to be designed to hold the tensioner in some application). Cutting the egr tube allowed me to flip the upper intake 180, though the throttle body warming barbs are awfully close. Not needed anymore, so they will go away.
Let me know if you want more pictures/data.
20180810_153433 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180810_153429 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180701_160403 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180701_153228 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20180810_133759 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Justjim75 said:
Speechless at my awesomeness, arent you?
I dunno how you actually managed to post with no content. Ive tried to do that a bunch of times without success. So you, my friend, are much more awesome than me.
I went to visit my mom, she has a 2004 (I think ?) Equinox with this engine it. She insisted that we take it. At one point on the highway (thinking of this thread) I kind of used too much throttle, accidentally. No, seriously, my foot just kind of had a mind of its own...
Anyway, if it will pull that hunk of metal like that I can't wait to see what it does in your Miata!
Is accessory belt slop taken up with the alternator???? I can't see any provision for adjustment......
The tensioner (leftmost pulley on an arm) is spring loaded. Essentially just like what you have in your truck, 759.
Still have to get a belt thats close enough though.
On a serpentine belt system, tue grooved pullies run off the ribbed side of the belt. Flat pullies run off the back.
My accessories, welded lower and upper intakes, and oil pan are all required for this swap. Im not sure it would be a very viable option for most folks.
Bent valve: ive had a few gm E36 M3 boxes witha 3400. None with a manual, or light chassis. Im really looking forward to seeing how this runs out. I honestly think mid 13s in the quarter out of the box are entirely possible. Low 12s on the bottle.
Db13 I have adj at the alternator also to give about 1/2" of droop on the longest belt span.....would hate to see you shedding belts .........
I Just got an 01 engine from an impala and spent yesterday stripping it down, mike the ports to the lower plenum are so big compared to the 2.8 design, it's like a .22 to a 12 guage. At least you kept the same lower end, I will keep what I have with a distributer and it's going to take a major transformation to work, the intake drops down to the TB i need it up or off and a new one fabbed up. Cut SPLICE,weld. SADLY I have no one around to weld aluminum.
Usually, big rig repair shops have a guy that can weld aluminium. He'll usually do it on a lunch break for a beer and a sammich.
And the 3400 ports look more like big block ports instead of a little v6. Its quite amazing, once you put it in context....
759: hopefully it'll make more sense when i get a belt on it. My written communication skills suck. My only real concern is the alternator being square and plumb to the rest of the pullies. That would be the reason for belt shredding if it happens.
Well, I JUST got back from the dyno with my 3400 / T5 RWD powered mazda.
On a Mustang Dyno it put down 150 HP / 174 TQ. Not bad.
Stock is 180 / 205 at the crank. It seems like I might be missing about 7 or 8 horsepower (this engine is straight from a junkyard with unkown mileage).
Ooooo
Thanks! Thats a lot liwer than i expected, to be honest. But aren't mustang dynos a little lower than others?
Dusterbd13 said:Ooooo
Thanks! Thats a lot liwer than i expected, to be honest. But aren't mustang dynos a little lower than others?
Its exactly the numbers I guessed before I went today.
There is 140#FT of torque from 2000 rpm and just goes up from there. Peak is at around 4500 and drops back to about 150 at 6K.
Mustangs are about 12% lower than dynojets, but they are arguably more realistic.
15% off of 180 hp is 153 hp.... So, about what it should be. Stock tune with headers and no emissions stuff. AFR's at 12.8 to 13.2 during the entire run.
Not sure how to squeeze more out of one of these without using a good bit more fuel (I can't due to fuel tank size and stint length in Champcar).
Colorful spaghetti
Good to see you're back at it. When do you anticipate the first start?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Sometime between now ans 2077 when fallout says the world ends. (Hopefully before the end of October, but i aint rushing it)
much more better. Only a few more connections to make, and it should be ready to smoke test.
Nice! Keep up the good work!
Did you need shims behind the throw out bearing?
Does the clutch release pass the "ziptie" test?
Clutch release passed the ziptie test without shims so far. Hopefully it continues to do so when under power.
Starter and clutch safety switch work.
Harness for engine is almost ready for smoke test.
Fuel system ready for pressure test once i figure out the mazda relay.
Then gauges and seeing what data i can pull through the obd2 port.
I love that it’s the old engine from my mom’s buick.
Finally got upper radiator hose figured out. After 13 different attempts.
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