Ran out of time last night, so i dont know yet. Still need to check for vacuum leaks....
Ran out of time last night, so i dont know yet. Still need to check for vacuum leaks....
Learned that the car is too low. Hit the two front butterfly brace bolts on the lift pushing it up tonight. Not cool.
Also, tomorrow after work im hammering out the cv axle loops and ppf delete mount.
Im really debating wether it needs a driveshaft loop. 18 inches on the shaft is above the butterfly brace and exhaust. 18 inches.there only about the same amount after the brace. I cant see this breaking in a way to cause pole vaulting. And it is all but enclosed....
Thoughts?
Sounds well protected to me.
The front joint breaking is the big concern as far as I know.
Not just pole vaulting. Been in a car where the shaft was eating its way through the tunnel. Not fun. Passenger would have been injured as the front of the shaft ate a hole besides the seat.
it sounds like you just need a loop from the butterfly brace up into the tunnel to keep the driveshaft from entering the seating area... so the butterfly brace is dual function?
sleepyhead said:it sounds like you just need a loop from the butterfly brace up into the tunnel to keep the driveshaft from entering the seating area... so the butterfly brace is dual function?
Ill see if i can figure out how to do this. Seems like a good idea at the very least.
Before
After.
Ounces make pounds, and i dropped two or three pounds here.
Sorted tge ppf delete tonight, reassembled the seat, cleaned and vacuumed stuff, and completely screwed up the new sway bar mounts. I may be able to reuse some of the metal, but tgats about it. Not only do the mounts need to move rearward an inch, but unboard an inch and a half as well. Missed that part......
Gutted glove box wirked perfect though, so that was nice. And my shift light idea seems easy enough to implement.
What is the fmv of a double ended heim joint that was pulled off addco sway bars on a c5 corvette a decade ago due to noise complaints? They've lived in the magic bucket till now. Onlu using one double ended pair....
this update brings no financial changes at this time. Really, the only part that I used was in my magic bits bucket (lives right next to my fab metal bucket full of odd pieces of metal) and I have yet to determine fair market value of the heim. Its pictured below, but came off a set of addco sway bars on a c5 corvette after they became horribly noisy. I had 4, but am down to just this one that I know of. Met be one more in the bucket at the bottom, but.....
anyway, here it is. Whats it worth?
20181116_165748 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
regardless, its being used as part of my PPF delete. Ive been waffling back and forth for a month about how I want to do it, and finally, due to analysis paralysis, just made something simple and adjustable.
20181116_201858 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
this gets welded to the rear crossmember on the passengers side directly to the outboard side of the original PPF that I cut down to make the lower mount. It will be fully boxed into the subframe, and should be welded in this week sometime when I remove the subframe. Then paint it, swap in the 4:11 torsen, and put it back under. Probably going to paint the underside of the car around the rear cradle white like I did the engine bay and tunnel.
I've been chipping away at the dash a bit more. I re-clocked the tach needle to actually read properly, bolted the dash in, tided up all the gauge cluster wiring, mounted the ECU, etc. ECU is mounted behind the cover for the passengers air bag, and fit like GM and mazda planned this swap. I also went ahead and bolted in the gutted AC evaporator box to finish that as well.
20181109_172101 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
in the process of this, I figured out why the OBD2 port wasn't working. Mazda and gm send the data on a different pin using a different protocol. The scanner is smart enough that it cant/wont use the wrong protocol on the wrong pin. Once I swapped the pin to the GM location, worked plain and easy. I also relayed the auxiliary switch panel and fused the line from the battery with a 50 amp maxifuse, but apparently didn't take any pictures of either, so you'll have to take my word for it.
I needed to see another visual progress after all the wiring, so I went after some interior work. Pulled the kick panels, windshield trim, glove box, and knee panel out of storage. Became shocked at how much it all weighed.
The pile from storage:
20181116_153644 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I pulled the steel plate from the knee panel, and the inner structure from the glove box while keeping the hinges and latch. I also stripped all the jute and foam from the backs of the other panels. My highly calibrated left arm says that I reduced the weight by roughly 50% from stock, with no outward indication.
20181116_154757 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20181116_165646 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
and all put together looking like a car again. Still have to figure out how to gut the airbag assembly from the steering wheel while retaining the horn function and cover for appearance sake. And install the kick panels, steering column trim, dead pedal, etc. lots of interior to go back in.....
20181118_110952 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
the shift light is going to be mounted where the dome light was above the rearview if I can make it fit in a way im happy with, may require cutting. You know, since NOTHING has been left untouched in this build. Except the gauge hood. I didn't mess with that at all. Yet.
While ive been chipping away at electrical, dads been cleaning, painting, and prepping sub assemblies. Seat mounts were ground, cleaned, and painted, seat cover cleaned, hardware torqued, etc. ready to be bolted in after the roll bar.
20181116_165754 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20181116_201749 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I refit the roll bar to remind myself of what needed done. Two tabs to tack on, some finish welding on the floor backing plates, finish welding the roll bar (Stave of AMC fame volunteered to do that), clean and paint. Clean up the hackery on the body shell form where I cut for clearance, bolt it in, and make some close out panels.
20181118_160602 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I mounted up the rear bumper. Need to eradicate the structure from underneath it yet that should lighten the car a few more pounds as well.
20181109_172637 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
lastly for this update is my puzzler. You see, I have to redo the throttle cable setup for ANY hope of a hood fitting. However, there's an issue there. I had thought it would be just as simple as moving the mount point towards the intake bu 90 degrees.
Except it binds at anything over about 45 degrees from where it is now. Which really doesn't get me anything for hood clearance or cosmetics. Im open to ideas on how to lower the sleeved and fixed end without binding issues though. There has to be a way, and the only option I can come up with is to use a smooth stud to pivot the cable down like a pulley. That way the housing can come at a 90 to the angle of pull.
Heres pictures. Help me brainstorm. Please.
20181109_172707 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20181109_172703 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
throttle cable -- can you rotate the butterfly assembly 90 degrees, then the cable points to the side. I can't see what all is attached to it and don't know how much hassle that would be.
fmv -- on heim joint, I got one for $1 at a junkyard, scrap metal price, it wasn't an auto recycler, and I think they overcharged me! But they did let me get all sorts of other metal for less than I would have paid new.
looking at throttle again, drill and bolt a pulley to the outside of the cable part, then you could pull it at any angle you want.
I didn't fully read the original post and came up with the pulley idea too. I think you want some kind of grooved wheel for that pulley, not just a stud. Sliding cable will wear out and may not feel linear.
Dusterbd13-michael said:
lastly for this update is my puzzler. You see, I have to redo the throttle cable setup for ANY hope of a hood fitting. However, there's an issue there. I had thought it would be just as simple as moving the mount point towards the intake bu 90 degrees.
Heres pictures. Help me brainstorm. Please.
iirc, there's a pretty heavy metal plate / trim piece that mounts under the steering column that's good to remove?
re: throttle pulley:
can you remove the "pulley" from the butterfly shaft and 'clock' it 180degrees so it's "up" instead of "down"... and maybe rotate it at the same time... that way the "cable pin" catch is at the front, and the cable can route along parallel with the intake manifold?
I'll take a few pics of how i did mine.
I actually used a miata cable because it had the correct pedal end and correct throttle body end.
It basically runs down the drivers side of th3 engine and runs out in front of the engine towards the radiator, makes a big loop, and runs to the throttle body from the front.
I'll get a crappy pic or two.
MIKE , I Have one in the shop, I can look at these suggestions and see if I see something, can you turn the T B upside down./ over.
sleepyhead said:Dusterbd13-michael said:
lastly for this update is my puzzler. You see, I have to redo the throttle cable setup for ANY hope of a hood fitting. However, there's an issue there. I had thought it would be just as simple as moving the mount point towards the intake bu 90 degrees.
Heres pictures. Help me brainstorm. Please.
iirc, there's a pretty heavy metal plate / trim piece that mounts under the steering column that's good to remove?
re: throttle pulley:
can you remove the "pulley" from the butterfly shaft and 'clock' it 180degrees so it's "up" instead of "down"... and maybe rotate it at the same time... that way the "cable pin" catch is at the front, and the cable can route along parallel with the intake manifold?
Re: metal plate. I removed it. It was attached to the plastic with two screws. I suppose its purpose was to keep knees from steering column in a crash, or slow down thieves.
I looked at cutting and rotating the linkage. Way more than i want to try to reengineer.
wvumtnbkr said:I'll take a few pics of how i did mine.
I actually used a miata cable because it had the correct pedal end and correct throttle body end.
It basically runs down the drivers side of th3 engine and runs out in front of the engine towards the radiator, makes a big loop, and runs to the throttle body from the front.
I'll get a crappy pic or two.
I saw some google images of this from the factory on some cars. Definitely would like to see yours and see if i have the space for it before buying parts at the junkyard.
GTXVette said:MIKE , I Have one in the shop, I can look at these suggestions and see if I see something, can you turn the T B upside down./ over.
I looked at rotating the whole throttle body. No go. Same with different 60*v6 throttle bodies.
But im glad you offered to monkry with parts in your shop for me. Between all of us, theres bound to be a simple, attractive, functional way to do this.
the Fiero has a bracket that holds the cable low, I will get a pic in a few, bracket bolts/ welded to shifter cable brkt.
https://www.wot-tech.com/cable-bracket-for-lx5-tb.html
This should give you some ideas.
Also, I made my own bracket. Once it actually gets to my email from my phone, I will upload it.
I do NOT have a picture that I can find of the cable routing.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Cable routing will be whatever it is. The bracket and geometry is the puzzler right now for me.
Thanks so much for the help rob.
I made this bracket versus the stock one because of the broken throttle cable. It worked before, but this put less strain on the cable.
it basically aims the cable right at the throttle actuator.
I can try to "paint" a picture later to explain the cable routing.... Basically, the cable comes out of the firewall and makes a big "U" and goes straight into this bracket from the front of the car.
That bracket, and your verbal description of the cable routing make sense. And are a simple and elegant solution.
Only thing I'll have to confirm is wether or not the pedal will have enough travel for wot.
But im going after this one.
I bent my pedal slightly to make it work. If it is like the rx7, it will have a throttle stop bolt on the firewall as well. Use it! You do not want the throttle body to be the throttle stop. Your cable will break and possibly mess up the throttle body.
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