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Stampie (FS) said:

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :

That the bolt I put in or did you already replace with a nylock one?

Yours was gone upon return  i put in a nylock grade 8. Its actually still there, but as noisy as if it wasn't. Just looked....




In reply to wvumtnbkr :

Im keeping my eyes open for a low mileage one. Sucks the later vvt 3500 and 3900 arent direct swaps.

Missed the cable that runs heat/cool. Probably explains why it always felt like the heater was on last summer. Or, you know, its because its a miata with a big engine crammed right up to the firewall.....

Stampie (FS)
Stampie (FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
2/8/21 9:22 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :

So my thought is what solution other than put in another bolt?  Is the new one loose?  Safety wire it?

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

kinda what im wondering. This is apparently a poor design on my behalf,  but im not sure why or how to make it better. 

Think im going to get it on stands,  take a good picture or two, and do a main forum post. Time to call in the people smarter and wiser than me.


Also, instead of fixing the noise, i wanted to make a cover for the battery terminals and to prevent damage to wiring. 

It escalated quickly. 

the sides are going to be fabric hinged for access and install. Under the left one is a bag containing the flat tow lights and ac delete serpentine belt. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ PowerDork
2/9/21 7:54 a.m.

On your loosening bolt issue, try Nord-lock washers?  Those are my go-to for stuff that loosens for seemingly no reason.

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
2/9/21 8:10 a.m.

I'm with Stampie - safety wire it.  And safety wire on your car makes you look like a bad-ass.

Were assuming that the bolt loosened again.  Until I actually poke at it, im not sure why i have the noises. 

Its still tight! The bolt is still tight!


Is now got noticeable play in tbe heim, however...

Just replace the heim? Something better?

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
2/9/21 3:56 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :

Is that a giant crack in that black upper bracket???  Far-right side?

Which ball joint is loose?  Can you put a jack under the transmission and duplicate the movement?  Did you just loosen the jam nut or has it been that way for a while?  If that's been loose, it could give you some clunking.

Also a safety washer on that lower joint would be a good idea.

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
2/9/21 3:59 p.m.

Looks like the jam nut backed off too. That could cause enough slop to hear.

Does it have to articulate? Could replace with 1" square tube and bolt that sucker in. Bend/notch/weld as necessary to fit. 

In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :

Not seeing what you're seeing may be a crack. I didn't go looking for any, other tahn my welded on upper mount. 

Safety washer: good idea!!! Never thought about it. 

The play is visible in the upper heim, where its bolted to the added tabs on the black crossmember. No idea how long tbe jamb nuts been loose. I sear i tightened it,  but don't hold me to it. Trans mount and u joints are tight. I can put my hand on the pinion flange of the diff, and rock it by hand replicating my noise and watching the upper bearing move oh so slightly. 

In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :

It would be nice to be adjustable,  but don't think it has to articulate now that the diff is mounted with delrin instead of rubber bushings. Or does it?

Stampie (FS)
Stampie (FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
2/9/21 4:07 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :

Far right of the picture

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
2/9/21 4:11 p.m.

If there's any actual free play between the ball and the housing then that part is trash.


Ill need to look closer.

I think you may need to revisit the design. Pull the subframe, ditch that part of the PPF, and rebuild.

Maybe an angle frame rail above, and two poly donut mounts (or delrin, whatever).

Unfortunately, I can't draw on the computer, but I think solid, even with the heims may be too hard a hit. You went from what, a 6' lever to 6". Lots of force.

Locost sight has some ideas. (note, I'm not bagging on your design, just brainstorming.)

Edit: This may be Mr Tanner's design. His was definitely similar, and what I was looking for in the first place, though not what I described earlier. 

Thats definitely an option. 

However,  if im going through dropping everything out, im ditching this incredibly noisy 4.10 torsen. Itll go 3.55 or so with a different rear. That's been a long term plan, as this thing is running out of rpm in second,  and not enough torque in third for a lot of spots on course. Im also not good enough to do the 2-3-2 shift dance quickly or well while also braking,  turning,  and not getting lost.


That all being said: i need this thing to hold together with minimum maintenance and repair this season to being co-driven at 1-2 events a month,  and driven to and from. Ive got about a month until the first event,  but a LOT of other stuff to do in that month. What can i/should i do with this current situation? New heim, check the possible crack, and send it? Square tube? So.e sore of sway bar end link to fmget bushings?

Also, we did this tonight for a test drive 

Stampie (FS)
Stampie (FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
2/9/21 9:02 p.m.

My vote is solid mount using current holes then revisit after season.

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter)
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
2/10/21 6:10 a.m.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Sort of what im thinking this morning. 

However,  im going to get it on the loft Sunday and see if i can find any cracks. Or any better solutions. Probably do a quick nut and bolt check too, since it will be easy  

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ PowerDork
2/10/21 6:27 a.m.

The FC RX7 has a sort of similar setup to what you've got going on, but with a rubber mount that likes to fail:

On our FC rally car, I plated the whole thing with 1/8" steel and reinforced the mount on the subframe too- it outlived the rest of the car.  This is a nicer one than what I made but you get the idea:

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:


However,  if im going through dropping everything out, im ditching this incredibly noisy 4.10 torsen. Itll go 3.55 or so with a different rear. 

Now you're talking. 8.8 or the subaru/infinity/everything rear R-22? maybe.

But yeah, longer legs would be good.

Also, awesome picture with the young one. 

wvumtnbkr PowerDork
2/10/21 2:24 p.m.

2 things.


The rx7 rubber part does fail.  Often.  The solution is to put a pinion snubbed above the diff case to eliminate movement.  Should work in this case also.


Second thing...  that looks like a perfect place to put a swaybar endlink with poly bushings.  Won't be adjustable, but you don't need it to be either.  Once you set your pinion angle, that's it.

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