For the hole, I'd cut oversize (3-7/8" or 4" or whatever) then use a fly cutter to get a perfect circle. Bolt the sheet of metal down on the drill press, use the fly-cutter to cut the inside 3-3/4" clean, then expand the fly cutter to 4-1/4" or whatever will cover your rough cuts and then weld that exactly where you need it.
stafford1500 said:For your 3-3/4 hole use a smaller hole saw and then finish with tin snips and files. Dont forget to trace the shape before cutting and trim to the line.
May even want to flange the hole a little bit. A pair of pliers and a small hammer will get you there.
Winner winner, chicken dinner!
and in other news, I'm pretty sure I know how I berkeleyed up my right elbow several months ago. Hole saw in hand drill snagged and rotated my arm in a very painful way. So I switched to left hand and kept the drill up against my rib cage. I'll probably regret that tomorrow.
Proof of concept looks good for boot:
but hole should be about 1/8" larger diameter. Boot is squeezed to pass through at current size, can't install MAF:
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Lol. No worries. Cars are awesome. At all budgets and skills. I have probably more respect for the guy doing E36 M3 in his garage than a lot of these so called probuilder hacks on YouTube, motor trend and the like. The ratio of useless noise and hacks to legit builders is far too skewed, in the wrong direction. So I keep a low profile and hang out in places like this. Feel free to ask any questions as you run into stuff and I will do my best to answer them. Same goes for anybody.
And looks good! You can always knock the flange off the backside and then tip a new .0625" tall flange and be done. Once you have the flange tipped like you have it, I like to use some home built T dolleys to straighten em up. I've got ones I've made from like .0625" rod on up through 1" and larger radius. They work awesome for stuff like that.
GaryC83 said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
You can always knock the flange off the backside and then tip a new .0625" tall flange and be done.
GaryC83 with the pro tip for the win! I buzzed about half of the flange down with a flap disc, then tipped it again to increase ID, and here's the result:
so now I will make the real piece.
Patrick and Gary-can you please help me understand the phrase tip the flange? I think I know what it means but want to learn.
In reply to wawazat :
Pretty sure it is the process of bending a small bit of the edge of the hole out-of-plane. Result is similar to what a simple die does. Stiffens the panel and makes the pass-thru smoother. Here's a couple pix that might help:
Mr_Asa said:... or whatever will cover your rough cuts and then weld that exactly where you need it.
Props to Mr_Asa for the suggestion. After I tuned up the practice hole, I decided to follow his concept.
not quite done, but I couldn't help myself:
Lazy morning / late start. Today is cleanup day in preparation for pulling powertrain. Old and busted:
there is no new hotness yet. I just took that pic 2 minutes ago.
And down the "wheel wall" side, which is the critical side for today:
It's like you are trying to prove us all wrong...
Keep it up ya big jerk.
preach (dudeist priest) said:It's like you are trying to prove us all wrong...
Keep it up ya big jerk.
Bruh, I'm trying to prove myself right.
Dinner break. Some of this space is only temporarily open, as I put the trash can and recycle bin outside. Oh hey, look, doors!
here's what the car looks like right now. I might put the frunklid in place to gain some shelf space, because I have to empty the interior 100% for the upcoming work.
In the foreground are two boxes of scrap steel and one box of scrap wire for junk man, two boxes of C4 and C5 odds and ends to sell eventually, one box of projector headlight conversion parts, and some random E36 M3 that fits into one of those categories.
Quitting time 11:30PM
happy 2023 y'all!
Always satisfying when you get your work area straightened up. Looks good, congrats.
Been doing similar in the garage today. Went to weld something and got irritated that it was sprinkling. Couldn't weld cause the table was outside.
Spent 90% of today shuffling stuff around, cleaning, etc. I'm wiped, but I've almost got the welding station set up.
If you keep this pace up you'll be driving before the Free Europa! Would love to race against you this May, even with both of us in barely-operable condition. Happy '23, gonna be a good one.
maschinenbau said:If you keep this pace up you'll be driving before the Free Europa! Would love to race against you this May, when both of us are gonna get trounced by FDat. Happy '23, gonna be a good one.
Keep building, but you know it's inevitable...
In reply to gumby :
I appreciate your misguided optimism, bless your heart!
Cleanup day 2 before:
and after:
and my buddy returned my cherry picker so I can get the powertrain out tomorrow.
Rather than pull Powertrain yesterday, I spent some more time cleaning and putting things in order. Threw away a set of spark plugs I removed from the E60 in 2017. Gave 2 boxes of scrap steel and one smaller box of copper wire to my neighborhood scrap guy. Then I decided I needed to see the car with all four tires on the ground. A little eye candy motivation, you know? In the process I'd be able to measure halfshaft lengths and verify my leaf spring adjusters would put my ride height where I want it.
first, a rough check of halfshaft length at full droop:
several Toyota and Lexus models share both the 01X inner joint bolt pattern *and* the C5 outer joint spline, so I'm hoping for an off the shelf halfshaft solution. Catalogs list compressed length; shortest I can find is 92-96 ES300 at 21.75", followed by 99-03 RX300 at 22.25", then 01-05 IS300 at 25.3". I'll start by test-fitting the shortest one and go from there.
So I continued assembling rear suspension to check out my spring preload / ride height adjusters. I set them at finger tight in full droop for maximum stance bro, then remembered that I don't have any tires mounted on C5 rims. Doh! No worries, not turning back, I'll throw on the E92 rears (255/35 on 18x8.5 ET37, vs C5 275/40 on 18x9.5 ET65). Next hurdle: floor jack trapped under rear cradle, *and* fender lip was resting on tire. No prob, use other jack under rocker, unweight suspension and crank up 2 turns on adjusters. Fender lips no longer resting on tires, wheel arch 25" from floor. Juicy.
Even with 20mm more width, the C5 tire will have 15mm better clearance to fender lip thanks to that +65 offset. I guess it's time to mount up the tires I bought 3 years ago.
Front had its own challenges, and I've determined that the Cragar Super Trick skinnies just aren't going to work for me. Front fenders are sitting on the treads, that's how bad the offset is off.
As with the rear, the floor jack was trapped under the crossmember. Need to see where the C5 front tires (245/45 on 17x8.5 ET56 iirc) land.
She's not quite a GT40. Roof peak is about 50-51" at what is pretty dang close to design intent ride height.
Awesome to see a good cleanup to allow progress!
Shop is looking really good sir. I am excited to see the real wheel and tire package at ride height under this thing. I'm also extremely jealous of the fact that you may be able to use off the shelf axles in this.
I remember reading somewhere that some BMW sedans used the same outer spline and inner bolt pattern, but required special machining on the axle nut. No details of the special machining were given. So I looked up E36, E39, and E46 halfshafts and found the E36 M3 is 23.8", and the E39 528i is 24.6", so looks like I've got some shopping to do. Ideally I can find a few of these options all at the same JY and maybe do a little mix and match.
tonight I goofed off a bit, took some measurements and made a couple adjustments. First, I checked ride height vs the Corvair shop manual. Book says 8-1/2" +/- 1/2" at bottom of rocker panel a specific distance forward of rear wheel center.
solid 1-3/4" lower than nominal. I dig it.
then I measured height from ground to bottom of engine crossmember, and from ground to lowest point on oil pan. Both measure 7-1/2" at this ride height:
that did not happen by accident. I designed the engine mounts with this exact dimension for this exact purpose.
then just because I could, I measured height from ground to top of intake manifold (31"):
and then I cranked the front spring preload to max, for that gasser look:
but the front only came up about 1-1/2". When I blow the suspension apart for detailing someday, I'll put the spring on top of LCA (OE attachment) and get a pic. That should raise the nose another 2" or so, since there's no engine up front anymore.
tomorrow after work I'm making a parts run. I'll get back to doing actual work on Thursday.
You're making it hard to trash talk...
Lost the entire day yesterday to a bad case of the berkeleyits. Today I dug some tires out of the shed and pulled some wheels down off the wall and mounted em up.
Autocross rear: 275/35 A7 on 17x8.5 ET60
Street rear: 275/40 on 18x9.5 ET65
Not shown: Street front 245/45 on 17x8.5 ET58. This rim is bent as berkeley. Didn't know it until I went to balance it. Gonna have to send it out for repair, road force was about 35 lbs and it looked to have 1/2" of radial bend. :-(
You'll need to log in to post.
