I am like chewing my nails with the anticipation of this deadline and where you are with the build.
Pete
I am like chewing my nails with the anticipation of this deadline and where you are with the build.
Pete
paranoid_android said:AngryCorvair said:JT said:In reply to TheV8Kid :
My goal has been to keep him from even washing it... so far, so good
it's true, every word. my exterior cosmetics plan is to clean the drivers side of the windshield.
This would be a good job for me- forgot to list “rally car window washer” on my resume...
Don’t do too good of a job, or it’ll look out of place!
NOHOME said:I am like chewing my nails with the anticipation of this deadline and where you are with the build.
Pete
Updates are same day as work, so if you’re on this page then you’re caught up.
i have showed the work that everyone except wawazat has done. Not sure why I chose to label his work “top secret.” Anyway, he showed up and asked “what can I do?” I said, “I don’t know, what *can* you do?” He replied “that control arm needs some love,”
and jumped right into the crap job of making 25-year-old aluminum look decent. Then he masked and blasted the calipers. Then he wire-brushed all the flux-core welds. So when you see the suspension and think “that’s pretty sweet,” it’s because wawazat rolled up his sleeves and got to it.
Another vote for not painting or even cleaning the exterior. Awesome build, now let's get that rear subframe installed this weekend!
In reply to AngryCorvair :
AngryCorvair said:
That's going to look SO good.
Great stuff. I need to get angry at my 914. This inspires.
Goal for this weekend is to have C5 rear frame permanently attached to monZora. Saturday AM started with measuring, marking, and cutting off a good chunk of the C5 side rails plus the crash beam. Now you see it:
And now you don’t:
Then I got a call from Wheels777 asking if there’s anything he could to to help. Not sure what, if any, PACC Racing magic will be deployed.
then paranoid_android showed up and jumped right in with modifying the rear transverse leaf spring. Since the subframe is narrowed, the clamp points on the spring move closer together, and the ends have to be cut short and redrilled / machined for relocated drop link attachment points.
I used some more of the C4 frame scraps to make a pair of yokes to attach a length of all-thread to the C5 rear lower shock mounts, as well as a plate for each top mount. The all-thread will hold the control arms in position while I mock up the C5 frame section to ride height. We positioned the frame section under the car and deemed it worthy of the horns:
Then I loosely assembled the rear suspension, with the all-thread and homemade yokes holding the control arms at the correct angles as I move it around to find the best wheel center location.
That’s as high as it goes for now. C5 upper shock mount crashed into Corvair rail and i wasn’t ready to start notching things. Gotta save some for later.
final thought for this post: should have narrowed it another 2”.
I’m bummed those pads took so long to be liberated from the spring. I could have gotten a lot more done for you.
And for the record, AngryCorvair knows his “vegan” cuisine! \m/
paranoid_android said:And for the record, AngryCorvair knows his “vegan” cuisine! \m/
it is surprising that the logo for “Bee’s Famous Recipe Vegan” looks so much like the logo for “Lee’s Famous Recipe Chicken”. Seems like they’d be in court over that.
Or are very devlish tactics upon their part.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Maybe PACC headers considering the engines new home?
In reply to BarryNorman :
I would *love* that, but I doubt there’s time to make it happen.
Sunday 9/22: the theme for today is Setback Sunday. and not the cool kind of setback, like putting an Atlas in a Rambler so 3 cylinders are behind the firewall.
bolt rear suspension together, go to install front calipers on rear, crash with DIH parkbrake backing plate. No sweat, a couple minutes with the angle grinder and no more interference. brakes go on no sweat. looks like front jounce hoses will work on the rear, and they even have the same bracket for attachment to chassis. not a setback.
bolt sawblades with 285/40 street tires on and give 'em a spin. why you no spin? because C4 sawblade crashes into C5 caliper. ok, this is a setback. introduce caliper to grinder, say goodbye to the corvette logo cast into face of caliper. still no go. take a little more off the caliper, still no go. OK, time to start pondering. easy button is 6mm wheel spacer, *but* that makes the fender clearance worse. other buttons, which must be pressed in some as yet unknown combination, include using a 3mm wheel spacer, removing more material from caliper, removing a couple mm from outboard face of rotor combined with removing same amount from caliper mounting bracket, removing a couple mm from outboard brake pad, or my absolute least favorite although probably OK: remove a couple mm from backside of sawblade spokes. most likely solution is to remove more material from face of caliper, with or without 3mm spacer is TBD. another option i just thought of is to see if C4 front brakes will install on C5 rear, now that the parking brake hardware is no more. C4 brake offset is higher so caliper should sit farther inboard. possible interference of rotor to knuckle and/or remains of park brake backplate, which is sandwiched between knuckle and wheel bearing flange. Solution TBD.
OK, berkeley it, let's keep moving. remove calipers so wheels can be bolted on. set LCA's for maximum negative camber (-2.0 left, -1.9 right). bolt the wheels back on. position the assembly under rear of car and raise into place. dammit, outer sidewall still fouls with fender lip. this is also a setback, because (1) we already narrowed the rear 4.5" (which was chosen as a SWAG based on shape of transaxle mount), and (2) i don't want to cut the outer body panels. Easy button is, of course, cut the fenders and tack on some E36 M3ty $39 ebay flares. nope. second easy button is to run smaller tires. LOL, just kidding, my keyboard doesn't have either of those buttons. other options include (a) following the Go_Gators method of moving UBJ inboard, then use camber adjustment on LCA to pull bottom of tire inboard as far as possible. limitations here are cost and timing; (b) narrow the rear even more. based on actual measurements versus SWAG method, need to take another 4" out of the center. this is the most robust solution although could eliminate simple adaptation of halfshafts, and force us into cutting /welding to get the right lengths. possible silver lining there is that we could splice an Audi shaft with the C5 shaft and have a bolt-in solution with no adapters. Solution TBD, awaiting feedback on cost / timing plus weighing the "berkeley it, showing up with a sub-optimal monZora is better than gastropodding the Sonoma" factor.
like matt damon on mars, i will continue to work the problem.
I feel your pain on the rear tire clearance. I had to settle for 195 tires and 48mm offset to get away with the no-flares option. I am pleasantly surprised by the traction with 200 TW tires.
Anyways, back to my nail biting while awaiting the final solution.
Pete
I admire your tenacity! Love the build.
Is the fender/tire clearance like “dang that’s close” or “ain’t no stinking way it’ll fit”?
just wondering if the fender can be spaced out a bit, or maybe gently and tastefully pushed out?
For the challenge, raise the rear ride height and run the wheel spacers.
No set backs! Go go go!
Wouldn't the easy (if probably expensive and out of budget) solution be to find wheels that have the right combination of offset and caliper clearance?
I feel bad because i knew about 8.5 sawblades vs c5 front brakes but it didn’t click when you said c5 front brakes on back
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement. some great ideas there. the idea of tucking 315s is really just a dick-pulling issue. a car this light doesn't need 315s. my hoosiers are 275. my current street tires are 285, but the next ones could be 275s. if i accept 275 as max section, then the build can proceed as-is, and i just need to solve the brake clearance issue. FWIW, with "C4 front" front brakes and "C5 front" rear brakes on a car this light, a 1.2g decel requires only about 5 MPa ( ~ 725 psi) front and 3 MPa (~440 psi) rear, so i'm not in any danger of failing the caliper housing by removing a few mm from the face.
In reply to paranoid_android :
fender could be rolled or trimmed and would gain sufficient clearance. that conflicts with my desire for no outer body mods, but that's just a desire not an absolute rule.
In reply to Robbie :
that may be the "Send it" button. honestly that's better than what i was thinking.
In reply to mazdeuce-Seth :
if I wasn't married to the Sawblades, i'd find a cast-off set of C7 base rims, rears are 19x10 +79 which takes 1/2" off the outside and adds 1" to the inside where i have plenty of room. *maybe* also fixes caliper clearance.
Patrick said:I feel bad because i knew about 8.5 sawblades vs c5 front brakes but it didn’t click when you said c5 front brakes on back
bruh, don't feel bad about that. feel bad that i'm gonna smoke you in the drags. feel bad that i'm gonna smoke you in the autocross. feel bad that you aren't as handsome as me. but don't feel bad about sawblades not clearing C5 front calipers. ;-)
275 is PLENTY for most things. And much less of a compromise than cutting body, building glass halfshafts, tig welding a cradle AGAIN, ETC.
Go 275 square and send that motherberkeleyer.
how much fender to tire interference are we talking about here? Is pulling/rolling a bit not an option? Betsy had about 1.5" needed in front. Felt a little flex in it from leaning against the fender. Gave a tug and it came out some (felt really good at the time, hah). Decided to tug some more, and it came out to only needing 0-.5" more. Still need to address some panel gaps at door and front bumper, but they're managable.
edit: i see you've discussed that now. I bet a little tug and roll would slip that rubbber up in nicely.... ;-p
bluej said:I bet a little tug and roll would slip that rubbber up in nicely.... ;-p
brown chicken, brown cow
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