are the calipers opposed piston or sliders? i went back through a few pages looking at pix but didn't see the calipers anywhere. because wilwood, i assume fixed mount with opposed pistons.
if you can assemble the caliper with pads onto the knuckle and the pads don't drag on the rotor, then you're good. if it was up to me, i'd assemble with caliper biased to the inboard side, because that buys you a little extra clearance to the spokes of your wheels.
Years ago (OK 1/2 a century) all of the English shop manuals went on about how to centre the calipers, and the cars always had this stack of .010' or .015" shims that would scatter as you took the siezed caliper off the upright.....The first time we couldn't find all of the shims we (Dad and I) looked at each other and said "the pads will self centre hydraulically, so lets try and leave them all out". Nothing changed at all, and I have deleted them ever since.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Calipers are opposed piston - 4 in the front, duals in the back.
I stuck my spare wheel on there real quick, and tightened now a couple lug nuts. Milestone: first time these hubs have had a wheel on.
Damned if the thing does rub. Just a tiny bit, in one spot only, on the outside corner.
The other thing I noticed - which is a bit annoying - is that these wheels aren't concentric to the hubs. I guess I'll need centering spacers. I'm going check the back too, and see if they're the same.
I'll redo my spacers to move the caliper in, and see if that works.
Though (serious stream of consciousness writing here) this wheel might be damaged or something. It was the spare on this poor road-hard vehicle. I think I'll dig out one of the wheels with a tire on, and see if they're similar.
Good thought as it does not look like it rubs the whole way around, but perhaps you did not spin it a full rotation?
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
I spun it all the way around in both directions. It's one spot that catches, and it hits on both the top and bottom corner of the caliper.
sounds like a not-round rim to me, but we generally look for about 5 mm minimum clearance between rim and caliper. gravel, pebbles, etc, can get lodged and damage rim in tight clearances.
So not centered or slightly bent spare rim? Definitely try one of other wheels before you make changes. Don't ask me why I am saying this :-)
More weirdness - the centers of the front and rear hubs are different. The fronts are 2.63 and the back ones are 2.75. WTF?
Well, I've been informed that the TR6 doesn't have hubcentric wheels, so the centering will all come from the lug nut taper.
NEEEEEEverMIND!
Nope. These wheels don't clear the big brakes.
I slammed the caliper as far in as it would go (only .020" clearance on the outside) and the wheel cleared. But then I couldn't insert the brake pad. Hmm.
Why not run a one inch hubcentric spacer?
One inch thick? That would probably wreak havoc on the fender fit.
I was thinking something more like a 1/4" or something. I'm going to be firing up the mill shortly anyway - maybe I'll just make some.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Original Triumph hubs cannot use hub centering anything because they are rough cast outboard of the wheel mounting flange. Some versions have no protrusion at all where you center on most modern hubs.
Just now I was scraping off yucky undercoating, and thinking about how much that sucks. And thinking about how it would be almost impossible to get into the tight corners.
Which made me think about stripping the body down to the bare shell and having it blasted. If this sounds like my thoughts on the frame, just look back six months to see the similarities.
So, let's talk fiberglass blasting! Walnut shells? Soda? I left a message for the guy who did the frame, asking his thoughts. Any wisdom to share?
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:I'm irrationally happy that you all liked my reference to steam-driven shaft-drive machine tools.
Not the only one.
I'm taking this whole "Labor Day" thing seriously:
It's a lot easier getting the engine in a bare chassis.
I also made another lifting hook and redid my engine pick-up harness to better distribute the load. Much better without the engine all twisted and tilted. It was really bad coming out. Better today.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:So, let's talk fiberglass blasting! Walnut shells? Soda? I left a message for the guy who did the frame, asking his thoughts. Any wisdom to share?
Plastic blasting medium.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:So, let's talk fiberglass blasting! Walnut shells? Soda? I left a message for the guy who did the frame, asking his thoughts. Any wisdom to share?
Plastic blasting medium.
In reply to Slow_M :
I'll look into it, thanks!
BTW, when you removed your heater box for the dry-sump, did you keep it? Wanna get rid of it?
Did a bit of work this morning on figuring out my brake tolerances. Here's one caliper centered on the disc, with the brake pads installed, and with a 5 mm 3d printed spacer. Angry Corvair said that 5mm is their brake-clearance rule of thumb, and I started with zero-clearance. So here we are:
Mounted the wheel and everything is totally fine:
Semi-unrelated question: how the hell do you tighten the upper ball joint nut when the ball joint just spins? Are there wrench flats somewhere that I'm not seeing???
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I'm finding the same thing happening with mine! I just figured it would take the weight of the chassis pressing down on the suspension to create the necessary resistance to turning. Of course, your rope won't really provide much resistance to upward pressure!
Maybe a good mallet-thump to set the taper?
One side pulled up just fine and the other was not interested.
I had some grand ideas of getting some good progress yesterday. That progress did not materialize.
I spent hours attempting to install the differential, and the short answer is that it doesn't fit. Here it is with the P/S mounts lined up, and the D/S a solid inch too high. At the yellow arrow, you can see there's little tab in the casting sticking out and clashing on the frame.
The drive shaft input looks pretty awful too. There's not much room on the back side of that tube. There are some spacers that lower the nose of the diff by 3/8", and I've since removed them. That'll help a little.
Here's the back side. I left on the frame a E36 M3ty exhaust bracket the PO added. Figured I'd just use it. Nope! It clashes with the back end of the diff. I cut it off yesterday afternoon, but still need to grind the bubble-gum welds flat.
Here it is from the other side. I'm really pretty sure I didn't put it together wrong. Part of me hopes that when I send these pics to Good Parts I'll find out I've put something together totally backwards.
In reality, I think I'll be taking it all apart, grinding the hell out of the diff casing to remove a bunch of obstructions, and then go about modifying the frame to move the whole thing up about an inch.
This was supposed to be the easy part...
Please get this figured out in the next couple of weeks, Scott, so I won't have to!
I can't say I figured it out, Stu, but I did go all metal-butcher on the diff casing.
One ear:
Knobby deal on the front:
Ear on the other side that was clashing with that lower tube:
Grindy, grindy, smoothy, smoothy:
The illusion of progress has been maintained.
I did a bit more fit-testing, and honestly I think I'm looking at either modifying the original sub-frame or making a new shorter one. Barring the possibility that I assembled things wrong, this is clearly not a plug and play situation.
Ya know Scott, the whole thing just seems to sit too low in the frame, like there's too much spacer or bushing or something between the "cage" and the diff. It looks like even if you get it to hang straight in the frame, your drive shaft will hit the frame cross member.
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