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docwyte
docwyte UberDork
10/10/19 11:58 a.m.

I always use 20psi in my Motive.  Just remember to replace the tubing on it every so often!

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/10/19 1:48 p.m.

Alright, so I decided to run out for lunch today, to finally do a little driving in the M5. I pulled out of my neighborhood and immediately noticed a problem. The second I got the car over 40MPH there is a massive shimmy coming from the front end and the steering wheel is shaking pretty badly. If I give the brakes a hard stab it goes away temporarily, but any normal effort braking seems to bring the shimmy back. Got the car back home and the drivers side was quite hot and smoking. Passenger side seems normal.

I'm at a bit of a loss here. I'm guessing that the pads or caliper are sticking, but I'm not really sure why. I made sure to liberally grease the pads and the seals on the pistons are brand new. I'm really not sure what to do to solve the issue and now I'm concerned that I've ruined that brand new rotor. berkeley, why can't anything seem to go right with this car?

docwyte
docwyte UberDork
10/10/19 6:04 p.m.

What about the caliper guide pins?  You take them out, clean them and grease them?

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/10/19 6:49 p.m.

I did clean and grease them initially, but I did have to did disassemble and reassemble them a couple of times after I mixed the calipers with the wrong carriers. My game plan is to disassemble and liberally apply grease and see if that solves the issue.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/14/19 9:47 p.m.

So during the weekend I was able to jack the M5 up and found that the anti-rattle clip was putting too much pressure on the pads and causing some binding. I greased everything up as best as I could and left the clip off for now. Seems to have solved the issue of the smoking brakes. 

But the wheel shudder was still there. I wanted to make sure that it wasn't some sort of manufacturing defect on the new rotors, so I swapped the old ones back on. Seeing that they really weren't that worn to begin with. The problem was still there, and it's leaving me scratching my head at this point.  The car drives perfectly normal under 40MPH, but almost instantly it begins to shudder, between 40-65MPH. It seems to dissipate after a hard braking event, but it seems to creep back as you drive on. I recall reading a thread here about wheel weights falling off if the car isn't driven much, and I basically immediately started working on the car when balancing didn't solve the issue I was dealing with originally. 

Only suspension components on the front end that haven't been replaced yet are the front wishbones and the tie rod ends. I have the wishbones on hand, so I think that I am going to replace those during the week. I'm off this Friday, so I'll probably have the wheel weights checked again. If that doesn't solve the issue the car will be going to the shop. And maybe it will be going up for sale at this point. I was prepared to shell out some time and money to keep this car on the road, but at this point it's starting to feel like all I do is worry about what's wrong with this car.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/20/19 8:37 p.m.

So I've been chipping away at the 2002 the last month or so. Didn't get it 100% the way I would want, but the state of the panel, kid 2.0 incoming, and winter on it's way I decided that the Bondo portion of the project was at it's end. Primed it a couple weeks ago and noticed some more glaring issues, so I went back at it.

Finally sanded, reapplied primer and laid down the single stage today.

I'm pretty happy with the results given my complete lack of experience and doing this all by hand and with spray cans.

Didn't manage to totally remove the worst of the damage, but it is way less noticable now.

Now I just need to mount the air damn an order up some fog lights, just in time for winter...

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/21/19 1:54 p.m.

On the other side of the garage, the M5 saga continues. I ended up going to get the wheels balanced, and found out that they didn't road force balance them the first time around. They found that both wheels on the passenger side were a little out of balance, but nothing too extreme. At first, it did seem like the vibration had improved. But once again, as I began driving some more, the intensity of the vibration increased. Dropped the car off at another local independent mechanic that specializes in BMW's. Gave him the run down and left it with them.

A few hours later they gave me a call to let me know that the calipers are seized on the front of the car. At this point, nothing really surprises me. If I had more time or patience I'd love to figure out why these calipers are giving me so much trouble, but I really do need this car to be ready when kid 2.0 arrives. So I went hunting for some calipers. Unfortunately, the calipers are not common and it seems that no one has them in stock. You can find them on multiple sites, but they are all backordered. Fortunately, I found a decent price for rebuild calipers, $212 per corner with a $125 core charge included. That'll be less than $200 out of pocket for the set. The only issue is my calipers have to be taken off, sent to the West coast to be rebuilt, and then shipped back. It's going to be another two weeks until this car is back on the road.

It's compounding issue like this that are really making me wonder if I want to keep the car around long term. I do enjoy the car when it works, but it's been a lot of time, effort, and money to track down what should be simple issues.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/22/19 1:28 p.m.

Last night, I worked on getting the the '02 back together. 

Reassembled the headlight buckets, installed and aimed the lights, and started getting the grills on. They are a little bit worse for wear, but replacements are a bit on the spendy side.

Need the hives suggestions on rivets. I have a pop rivet tool, but I haven't had a ton of good luck in the past. Any recommendations for tools and actual fasteners? 

02Pilot
02Pilot SuperDork
10/22/19 3:28 p.m.

I used rivnuts and stainless hardware to mount my airdam. I prefer them to pop rivets for anything I might want or need to remove.

OjaiM5
OjaiM5 Reader
10/22/19 3:37 p.m.

Looks Great!

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/22/19 7:34 p.m.

In reply to 02Pilot :

I just bought an assortment of metric rivnuts and stainless steel button headed allen bolts. Hopefully that will give the look of rivets without the ne to drill them out if I need to remove the air damn for some reason.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
10/22/19 7:36 p.m.

In reply to OjaiM5 :

Thanks! This is the first time I've ever done any kind of body work. I'm sure anyone how knows what they are doing or looking at will see tons of faults, but I'm just glad it looks better than when I started and not worse!

02Pilot
02Pilot SuperDork
10/22/19 7:55 p.m.

In reply to MTechnically :

Get some Cleco fasteners while you're at it. Makes the mounting process much, much easier.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
11/13/19 8:19 p.m.

Well tomorrow is the big day. It's my birthday and I'm having kid 2.0. Obviously, I'm not going to have a whole lot of time to spend working on the cars for the next few months. Apparently, the jet stream is trying to make things easier for me. This week we go hit with a pretty brutal cold snap for this time of year.

It doesn't seem that I would be able to get out to the garage even if I wanted to.

Fortunately, the 2002 is back together now. My buddies came over last weekend and helped me get the hood back in the car.

This was just before slapping the cover on for the winter. I'm a little bummed that I didn't manage to drive the car much with the new Comp 2's this year, but that's more motivation to get things done early on next year.

 

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
11/13/19 8:27 p.m.

The M5 saga continues. It took almost an entire month for my calipers to get rebuilt by Stoptech and they failed to powder coat them for good measure. They also managed to ship them back to my house and not to the shop as instructed. Obviously, I'm not too impressed with them at the moment. Hopefully, the shop will get the car done tomorrow so I can have some more good news on my birthday.

The E34 continues to chug along. Though I think I've got a vacuum leak  or something. The car seems to have a bit of a rough spot  between 2-3,000 RPM. Seems to idle fine, but on a cold start it doesn't seem to run a higher idle initially. I'm wondering if the two symptoms are related. Once the M5 is back I'll see if I can't figure out what's causing the issue. 

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
11/26/19 6:51 a.m.

The last week and a half have been a bit of a whirlwind. As I've been mentioning, I became a dad again late last week, on my birthday no less.

Already attempting her best Clint Eastwood impression.

Mom and baby are doing great. First couple of days were a true exercise in sleep deprivation, but she's settled into a pretty good routine. We are extremely thankful that things are going more smoothly than the first time.

In the garage it's been a bit of a rollercoaster. The E34 has been characteristically reliable, but after of bought of first winter here in the Midwest the car needed a wash. Seeing as I'm not exactly flush with time these days, I took the car to a local self wash. As I was washing, I noticed a little water on the dash near the A pillar. Seems that the rust in that area is worse than I thought.

Here's an up close of the cancer.

And another right at the bottom of the the A pillar.

Obviously, this is some seriously bad news when it comes to this car.

What's most frustrating is that for the most part the car still cleans up really nicely. I'm honestly not sure what to do with the car right now. It's a bit of a forever car for me, but I don't think I have the time or space to do the major surgery involved in fixing the rot. I have toyed with the idea of driving the car further into the ground and just sourcing a clean shell, but that's not particularly easy to do with E34 tourings these days.

After another few months in the shop the M5 is back in business.

Turns out that the brand new, OEM supplier (Lemforder), thrust arm bushings failed in about 2000 miles. That caused the bulk of the shimmy, especially in the steering wheel. I don't recall doing anything that would have caused such a premature failure. Either the parts were defective, or they were installed improperly by the shop I had handle that job.

Unfortunately, there is still a vibration coming from the car at about 45MPH. It not longer comes through the steering wheel, but it's definitely still noticable. The shops theory is to ensure that the wheels aren't bent and eliminate the hub centric rings. The car came with some OEM Style 65's that were very poorly repainted. I figured now is as good a time as any to refinish those wheels to see if we can't eliminate the wheels as the source of the vibration. I took them to a local powder coater to see what they could do. They said they would strip them and assess whether or not they could coat them.

Here's a picture they sent after stripping them. Now, they told me that the wheels are chromed underneath the shoddy paint, but that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. The wheels are aluminum, which I understand can't actually be chrome platted in the sense of actually bonding anything to the base metal. The OEM finish is shadow chrome, which is actually a three stage painting process and not actually chrome platting. 

I'm not sure why someone who deals with tons of wheels, and is highly recommended doesn't seem to know the difference...

To be fair, I haven't seen the wheels strippes in person yet. So maybe I'm dead wrong about that. If I'm right, I think I'll be stripping them myself and taking them somewhere else to see if I can get them redone properly.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
11/26/19 11:29 a.m.

So I was wrong about the wheels. They clearly were chromed at some point and then someone tried to remove the chrome with a media blaster...

So those wheels are total junk. Severely pitted and would need a ton of work even if that wasn't the case. So I'll be looking into seeing if a local wheel repair company can check my Schnitzer wheels for any bends.

After driving the car more, I'm becoming increasingly more suspicious of the driveshaft. Which was also new just a few thousand miles ago. I bought it from Turner Motorsport, so I don't think it's a quality issue with the part. My best guess is that the CSB was incorrectly installed or that the guibo is damaged.

MTechnically
MTechnically Reader
12/1/19 3:13 p.m.

A small quality of life upgrade today. Ever since I bought the car, I haven't been a big fan of the shifter in the M5. It's always had some flex which really didn't inspire confidence when going for a more aggressive shift.

Some PO had swapped out the original shift knob and boot. For some inexplicable reason they replaced it with a 5-speed knob and a pleather replacement with tricolor stitching. 

Not terrible, but it really feels cheap in comparison to the rest of the extended nappa leather.

Enter the OEM M5 shift knob.

The design is a one piece, integrated boot and knob, that really feels like a much higher quality unit. 

A nice touch is that this knob also lights up. For some reason the connectors where not compatible, but two crimp connectors solved the issue pretty painlessly.

As per usual, I found some hackery that caused the job to take twice as long as it should have.

Duct tape, weird cut marks and the compression fitting is manged. Luckily I was able to get the new knob on tighly enough for the time being. But I'll probably replace that shift lever at some point.

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