MX_Brad
New Reader
10/6/22 10:13 p.m.
I sort of inherited this crappy little open utility trailer. Needs new floor and sides, new wiring and lights, tires (found some used ones on kijiji) and now I discover it could use new 5x4.5" hubs. The current ones look like the outside of a brake drum setup....probably scavenged from another application and badly deteriorated. Took the hubs off tonight and I see the spindles are tapered. Calipered the spindle.... .75" on the outside, 1.25 on the inside. The numbers on the bearings confirm those measurements (LM11949, LM67048]. This goes against every hub replacement video I've watched on utube university where everyone's spindles are straight, and I'm having a hell of a time finding a source for such an animal. Is this an odd setup?
At this point after spending hrs online looking for something suitable, I'm thinking I may be better off just hitting Princess Auto for a new axle, complete with hubs and bearings.
So a 3k axle for agricultural that somebody found a drum to swap out the standard 4 on 5" hub?
You could switch to 4 on 5, but why? You could swap the spindles but why?
I think you either want to put new bearings in the old hubs, or go with your idea of buying a complete axle. A standard 3.5k axle will run what, a little over $300?
Can you get a 2k axle with 5x4.5? I am not sure that is worth saving $150, but if the trailer is sketchy there is likely no harm.
MX_Brad
New Reader
10/7/22 9:36 a.m.
Thanks for the info. For now I'll just cut away at the drums, and do new bearings. It'll get me by for now and I can revisit in the future if needed.
I need to weld in a missing cross brace of angle iron and get to work on the floor. 5/4 PT deck board should suffice and I'll see if I can find some diamond mesh to weld onto the sides and front.
Where are you? I have a couple hubs you can have if you are close.
MX_Brad
New Reader
10/7/22 1:35 p.m.
bearmtnmartin (Forum Supporter) said:
Where are you? I have a couple hubs you can have if you are close.
I'm near London Ontario, but thanks for the offer.
MX_Brad
New Reader
10/7/22 1:36 p.m.
MX_Brad
New Reader
10/8/22 10:32 a.m.
Quick question on attaching the decking to the frame....thinking I should use a membrane between the metal and wood to slow down rot in those areas? Butyl tape? Sill foam?
In reply to MX_Brad :
I usually paint the frame with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and an oil based paint.
MX_Brad
New Reader
10/9/22 10:39 a.m.
Yeah, planning on wire brushing and spray bomb Tremclad on the frame. Just thinking I should have a barrier between the metal and wood. Think I'll grab a roll of butyl tape to be safe.
In reply to MX_Brad :
Either paint the bottom side of the plywood, or put something like this down.
RecPro 105" Wide Coated Underbelly Material | Belly Bottom Material | Mobile Homes and Trailers (10 Feet) https://a.co/d/6FMM7jh
Butyl tape couldn't hurt, and would protect the threads from rust, but honestly that's pretty far down my list of concerns.
Just my .02 as a former RV tech that specialized in rot remediation and rebuilds.
I wouldn't get stressed about tapered stubs on a light trailer. I've owned and built a modest number over the years and have never seen a parallel stub. Those bearing numbers look familiar but not quite enough to go outside and check. Grease well and protect from water ingress
As to the deck, water is your enemy there as well if you're using wood products. The idea of tape sounds like a good one. My current trailer has an aluminum checker plate deck over a hot dip galvanised steel frame and following recommendations from several sources I used a thick layer of mastic where they came into contact with each other...