So, hypothetically, if the rest of the suspension geometry supports it- the neat thing here is that both being super low and having a berkeleyton of travel require the shock mounts to be nice and high up on the chassis. What I'm saying is you're gonna be halfway there already.
EDIT: I didn't count posts to know this was going to be a new page, and everyone needs to see this:
nocones said:
AxeHealey said:
In reply to nocones :
You're welcome / I'm sorry.
YOU DID THIS TO ME!
*Of course it has Carolina Squat, Also Absolutely downloaded a "Moto Metal" rim. This probably won't happen but It is amusing to look at.
You know what else has Carolina Squat? Trophy Trucks!
oh my. That is fantastic!
Suspension Pullrod and Shifter heims arrived. This is 5% of the challenge budget!
I known this 3/8 heim can support a 4klb tensile load. I know this. But it feels so small.
Also a budget question. I bought a quick release adapter to get >$100 for free shipping. It was $20. Without it shipping would have been $8. I may use it on the car at the challenge assuming I can fit the $20 in budget. If I don't do I need to count something for shipping the Heims?
I'd say clever trickeration of shipping minimums is fair play. If I buy, say, a carburetor from Summit Racing and add 47 novelty items like t-shirts and racing-themed coffee mugs to get free shipping, it doesn't make the shipping on the carburetor any less free if I don't use those t-shirts and coffee mugs on my challenge car.
4.5 hours and nearly a whole 124cu-ft of welding later the main cage is fully welded. Now it's time for harness bars then back on the build table for building-ing.
The good news is I'm better at welding now then when I started.. the better news is that the chassis is still level and straight so it didn't move. I want to add gussets everywhere but I'll do that post challenge, as it's probably $50 worth of 4130 plate to Taco the joints.
And now with harness bar.
I struggled mightily with one of the tight angles on the 45. I got some contamination and had to grind it out and redo it. It was fairly frustrating but now it's done.
Time to clean the garage and then back on the table it goes for the next phase. Shockingly I was able to get all the welding done with exactly 1 bottle of argon so I have about 100psi in the tank now. Guess tomorrow morning I'll be getting more for the tubes that have to attach to the cage will be TIG.
Tube / Metal used is now
4130 - 535.75"@ 6.50/ft = $290.20
2x2 - 267-3/8" @ 1.67/ft = $37.21
4130 Plate - 0.61 sq-ft @ $11.00/sq-ft = 6.70
Total = $334.11
Now that the Main roll cage is welded it's back onto the build table. I built a in chassis seat Jig first ot verify that everything was as expected, and to start plotting for the 1" tube steel in this area. Additionally It enables me to start finalizing the footbox area.
So it was time to start looking at the front bulkhead. This area is where EVERYTHING needs to go. Feet, Pedals, Master Cylinders, Suspension Pivots, Steering Rack, Steering Shaft, Bellcranks, Shocks and sufficient metal to support all of that. This is complicated by the fact that the footbox is ~30" wide, 14" tall, and thanks to the tiny Subaru "frunk" 9" deep and aggressively trapezoidal. I'm currently mocking up the OEM Subaru Rack and threw the boosted MC in there just to see. It actually despite the clampy desheveled nature of this looks like things will fit pretty well.
I need to find a Subaru clutch MC/Slave cylinder as the Brighton has a cable clutch. For actual pedals I'm planning to fabricate a manual pedal box with steel plate and source cheap MCs (¯\_(ツ)_/¯ had indiated that they had some). I cut the longitudinal tubes for the front. The lowers are 17" and the uppers 10.5". That adds $3.12 to the steel costs.
Another thing I did was ordered parts to fix my lathe. I had bought an old metal lathe for $200 and since it was so cheap and rotated I didn't really inspect it to much prior to purchase. The tool carriage wouldn't traverse. I wasn't sure what brand it was the control switch was a Walker-Turner Driver series switch so the PO assumed that it was a Walker Turner. After some Investigation it turns out it's a ~1933 Atlas 9" x 3". This is the basis for the popular Craftsman line of 9-12" lathes that are fairly popular. That popularity means parts are still available! I took apart the carriage and found the 12T apron handle gear stripped. Additionally 1 Traverse Gear tooth was broken. So through he power of eBay I was able to purchase new for both of these items for less then $100 total. I also bought a 6" vice, a live center, and some Carbide Cutters. All those parts are arriving this week. Once they do I will get the Lathe back together and start machining the pivots for the front suspension.
Can you reverse mount the brake and clutch maseters under the cowl to give more room? Youd have to make an access panel in the body ou do remote resivoir
nocones said:
Another thing I did was ordered parts to fix my lathe. I had bought an old metal lathe for $200 and since it was so cheap and rotated I didn't really inspect it to much prior to purchase. The tool carriage wouldn't traverse. I wasn't sure what brand it was the control switch was a Walker-Turner Driver series switch so the PO assumed that it was a Walker Turner. After some Investigation it turns out it's a ~1933 Atlas 9" x 3". This is the basis for the popular Craftsman line of 9-12" lathes that are fairly popular. That popularity means parts are still available! I took apart the carriage and found the 12T apron handle gear stripped. Additionally 1 Traverse Gear tooth was broken. So through he power of eBay I was able to purchase new for both of these items for less then $100 total. I also bought a 6" vice, a live center, and some Carbide Cutters. All those parts are arriving this week. Once they do I will get the Lathe back together and start machining the pivots for the front suspension.
DUDE! I just got one from my dad. I need to clean up but we need to be lathe buddies on this! haha
This is before I set it up on the old entertainment stand as a workbench. Yep, it needs a cleaning....
In reply to Thinkkker :
Did we just become Best friends? I feel like we need a Stepbrothers esq. T-Shirt Made. GRM Worldwide presents "Lathe's and Holes"
Yours is older then mine. Yours has the "splayed" legs on the bed. Apparently that was a year 1 sort of thing.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page2.html
I realized there was an error in my Build Log file. I had been keeping track of Times and build progress but I had to add some cells and I did not drag to fill the totalizer correctly. That means I missed the 50 hour picture/update.
So I will just go with the current Status.
66 Hours
$972.47 spent (GC8, WRX uprights, Radiator, Rod Ends, Metal used to date)
$275 Recouped (Subaru Shell, Transmission)
$697 Total
In reply to nocones :
I wasnt sure how many years they did the splayed feet. So, sounds like 1932 build.
the prestige -> GRM is hard......
Together Everyone Achieves More
A bit more progress on the front bulkhead. Got 2 of the verticals (12") cut and the horizontal top tube (33"). This will get welded in and then more tubes will be added.
1.5 hrs = 67.5
1x1 tube - 112" @ $0.67/ft = $6.35
solfly
Dork
10/29/20 6:55 a.m.
What is the wall thickness on your 2"x2"?
Up to what weight/size/power or whatever limit do you think that's enough?
The 2×2 is .083 wall. For this application with this Chassis design I think it would be good up to uncomfortably high levels of power (400+ in a 1400lb car).
It is thicker then the size the NHRA requires for use on altered frame vehicles (2X2 .058) because I couldn't readily get the .058 it would have cost 150% of the readily available .083
How much weight/power you could use this with would depend on chassis design. But 2×2 was commonly used in GT1 cars and those where ~3000lbs with nearly 800 hp. It looks like FFR uses 1.75" sq for the 65 coupe chassis so I would think that this size would be adequate for any level of HP at typical sports car weights in a well triangulated space frame chassis. Special attention would need to be paid to ensuring well transferred loads at engine mounts / diff mounts if silly power was applied.
Compared to the typical Locost spec 1×1 .065 (16 ga) you have 2.5× the tensile strength (2.5x cross sectional area), A bit more then 8x the bending stiffness (2× the section height+ a little more thickness of metal) and 8× the buckling load (same as bending stiffness).
nocones said:
A bit more then 8x the bending stiffness (2× the section height+ a little more thickness of metal) and 8× the buckling load (same as bending stiffness).
and this is where we need a Samuel L Jackson Pulp Fiction meme, where you're looking down the barrel of his gun as he shouts " B H CUBED, MOTHERberkeleyER!" DO YOU SPEAK IT?!?!"
I was able to get some 2x2 by .065 pretty easily I think...
but I did do the calcs and 2x2 by .065 is almost 2x as strong as 1.75x.120 wall tube, which is what is NHRA required for the roll bar. and the 2x2x.065 is actually about 20% lighter.
For quick reference of relative strength, and area to compare weights. (Assuming the same material)
More bulkhead. The outer braces (10") are in and it's welded up now.
I also CAD templated the plates for the base of the footwell bars.
Another 1.5 hrs = 69.0
1x1 tube - 132" @ $0.67/ft = $7.48
nocones said:
I struggled mightily with one of the tight angles on the 45. I got some contamination and had to grind it out and redo it. It was fairly frustrating but now it's done.
I’m not sure what torch setup you’re using but, a gas lense can be helpful in tight angles with a lot of tungsten stick out. They also tend to use less argon to maintain the same shielding.
Cut the CAD templates into 4130 plate (4.5" x 4.5") and welded them on. Also fabricated the front tubes (25") for the roll bar.
Another 2.0 hrs = 71.0
Tube / Metal used is now
4130 - 585.75"@ 6.50/ft = $317.28
2x2 - 267-3/8" @ 1.67/ft = $37.21
1x1 tube - 132" @ $0.67/ft = $7.48
4130 Plate - 0.89 sq-ft @ $11.00/sq-ft = 9.80
Total = $371.77
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
I was well into my chassis build when I saw a FB ad for a bunch of 2x2x0.65. There were pallets of 5 foot lengths for $3 each. I was sorely tempted to stop the build and start over with a GT1/2/3 style chassis, but saner heads prevailed.
