Nocones $2020 challenge build thread

In reply to nocones :

You really should plan on attending even if the car isn't Ready. 

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

I will.  I'm not sure if I will just join a BDT team or bring another vehicle?  I am still hopeful I can have a running but ugly 360..

None of the above. Just exist with the people and soak it all in. It's an awesome way to spend the weekend. Host hotel participation is a VERY important resource as well. 

More rear bellcrank progress.  

I started on the chassis side pivot.  There is much reinforcement still required that I hope to finish tonight. 

I put a bunch of holes in this nice piece of 4130 and then cut it into pieces to make the belcrank arms.  

I have 6 hours to get this thing Rolling by the 250 hr update.  

It's looking great dude! Keep it up!

Enough reinforcement is done on the bellcrank pivot to support the cars weight.  Further boxing of the outside support will occur when the subframe/chassis get finish welded off the table.

I'm now 4 tabs, 2 tubes, and a pair of pullrods away from "rolling".  I'm very hopeful that tonight is a big night of effort.  

This is pretty incredible.  You, sir, are an inspiration!

love it, keep going, almost there

In reply to nocones :

good luck

Sneak peek.

 More soon..

Yes! MOAR!

Please sir, may we have a little more?

In reply to preach (fs) :

I'm preparing the 250 hr update.  I assure you photo overload is on its way soon.  

Holy Carp!

Sweet!

In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :

that was my feeling too

Wait for it....

Ok so obviously the rear bellcranks are done.  Total cost to do the rear bellcranks and actually account for the rod end this time (@3.99 each, I added $15.96 to the budget for the front) was $59.61 including shocks time was 12.75 Hrs.  The rears where about $5 more then the fronts because more steel.  That plus time spent removing the Chassis from the build table brings us to the 250hr update which happens to be ROLLER DAY.  

250.25 Hours

$1391.89 spent

$347.29 Recouped 

$1044.60 Total 

Tube / Metal used is now

4130 - 638.75"@ 6.50/ft = $345.99

2x2 - 333-7/8" @ 1.67/ft = $46.46

1x1 tube - 1021-1/4" @ $0.67/ft  = $57.87

4130 Plate - 4.22 sq-ft @ $11.00/sq-ft = $46.39

3/4 x 3/4 tube - 359-1/4" @ $0.69/ft = $20.39

1/2 x 1/2 tube - 69" @ $0.52/ft = $2.99

3/4" x .25 Wall 4130 Tube - 128-5/8" @ $0.50/ft - $7.00

1" x .125 Wall DOM Tube - 429-1/4" @ $1.35/ft - $48.29

.125" MS plate - 3.96 sq-ft @ $6.50/sq-ft - $25.75

18 ga Steel sheet - 3.5 sq-ft @ $2.82/sq-ft - $8.61

.063" Aluminum - 4.67 sq-ft @ $3.38/sq-ft = $15.75

.032" Aluminum - 15.5 sq-ft @ $1.44/sq-ft = $22.27

1" OD Solid MS Rod - 3.5" @ $4.42/ft - $1.29

Total Metal = $649.27

 Estimated Weight of Steel - 338.7 lbs.

So being on the ground I was able to weigh the car, and I'm pleasantly surprised.  Remember these wheels are ~28lbs each.  Total weight (Using bathroom scales so figure some innacuracy) was 940lbs for what you see.  Major weight adds will be the rest of the bodywork, radiator, brake calipers (Rotors are on), Pedal Cluster, about 30lbs more bracing.  So I think it will still wind up in the 1300lb range.  These scales have had the MG at 1550 which it was 1580 at Nationals.   Front / rear bias is 39/61.  Without me in it.  With me in it it will bring the weight forward probably almost 5%.  

The front spring rate seems spot on, the rears are quite stiff.  I still haven't adjusted them within the realm of what I have available.  I'm also not as confident in the rear subframes "completeness" for accepting the loads so I'm not exactly jumping up and down on it.  The rear bellcrank ratio is ~3.0 so small changes on the pullrod side have a big impact on wheel rate so I probably just need to dial it in.  I'm also planning to switch the chassis bungs to Studs.   I was able to get the bolts in but 1 nut is properly stripped.  It torqued down but It really only has 2-3 threads left.  Studs/nuts would be much easier.  I also may make sure there are pockets to get wrenches on the back side.  These are adjustments that can be made though.  It came apart quickly and overall went back together quickly (~1.5 to go from chassis on table, to re-assembled on the ground with tires).  It also looks like serious Racecar stuff with the rear suspension just attached to the engine.  

For reference I am 6' tall.  This thing is low/small.  it's 41" to the bent sticky out part of the rollbar.

Now for what you're all here for..   Next post PHOTODUMP..

And because I happen to have it available to me..  My driveway was extra insane today..   Keep in mind the MG is a MIDGET.  Yes it's the width of a Miata, but it's still tiny and this thing is even more insane/tiny.  

That's all for now.  Next on the car is actually tear it apart to do the finish welding of the chassis.   Then strip down the Outback for it's 2.5L engine, Front uprights/brakes, and Pedals (-$150 for the WRX uprights and a hydraulic clutch!!!)

Phenomenal!

Awesome work so far, can't wait to see the finished project. 

Thanks guys.  It's tucked into the garage waiting for be stripped appart.  I'm out of weld gas so I need to get more tomorrow then I can get back to welding.   Here's a couple body off pictures for those into nekkid cars.

This thing kicks soooooo much ass.

These images are so awesome that my brain keeps going "RENDERING" or "PHOTOSHOP" even though I know it's a real thing.  That's how cool this is.