Travelers insurance will insure as "liability only". Coverage starting today - but this is at least in part because the car was already on the policy.
Does anyone have recommendations for insurers who have more complete coverage for "R" titled vehicles?
...and that missing knockout on the bumper cover for the tiedown is en route as well.
How is a new insurer going to know that it is R titled? They insure the VIN, which will only show the R title with an investigation that is not happening prior to a claim. Your old insurer only knows the title status because of the claim. Just buy insurance without mentioning the R. I have never had an agent ask the title status.
Allstate covers full coverage on two salvage title cars for me
...but if there *is* a claim, then won't I get jammed up?
In reply to Greg Smith :
Can you put agreed value collector car insurance on it?
Greg, great to see the end result!
Also, you know what I do for work. I wouldn't take Allstate if it was free, by far the worst in the industry claim service in my experience, again and again for years.
state farm will only do state minimum on salvage title cars. I have looked into that in the past.
Javelin said:In reply to Greg Smith :
Can you put agreed value collector car insurance on it?
Likely too many miles driven for that, he does ~30k+/year.
I switched my car/home insurance to Erie and got a big discount from Travelers. It might be worth a call over to them. No r-title cars for me though, yet.
In reply to AWSX1686 :
now down to 15-20k with more work from home. Which should be good for my rates :)
Over the past 2 days, I'm getting low 30 MPG, or down to mid 29's when driving more enthusiastically.
My NC1 typically got 28.5, so this is a pleasant increase.
Glad to see how well this has come along.
Needs some sweet "phoenix rising from the ashes" graphics on it. 
In reply to slowbird :
I'm considering something. Maybe a 'firebird-like' hood logo. But I want to keep this classy too.
Update - after discussing with my sons, *IF* we come to this year's Challenge, Christopher (CSmith) is planning to pring a Z31 300Z and Andrew (AWSX1686) is looking at a white early 2000's BMW. So even though I am over budget, I am planning to bring the Phoenix as an 'exhibition only' vehicle!
It's definitely out of budget for the Challenge:
$2175 "owner buyback" insurance settlement.
Since this price is not available to anyone else, (and because it's over $2000) I'm not competition legal.
Parts:
$237 Replacement front fender (LKQ)
$530 Rock Auto 2 suspension arms, driver side brake lines, 2 front struts (Bilstein)
$65 Rock Auto ($130 for 2 front wheelspeed sensors. (the one was demolished in the accident, and I broke the other out of my own stupidity disassembling the passenger side so that one's technically out of bedget (working when car was purchased))
$6 Napa Brake black paint
$220 Ebay Damaged headlight housing (HID module damaged, lens scratched; mounted my HID module & polished)
$101 Ebay Grille mesh part
$4 Amazon Trim clips for side skirt ($10 for 20 pack - using 8)
$1 Amazon Push fasteners for wheel well liners ($10 for 200 pack - using 20)
$3339 to date
Pending expenses:
- Competition yellow paint
- Clearcoat
- Front tow hook cover (tow driver pulled it & didn't put it in the car. Argh! these are difficult to find. Will check dealer at https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-tow-bracket-cover-nh5450a11abb )
non-Challenge costs:
$130.50 PA state tax
$198 "enhanced vehicle inspection" to return this to legal road worthiness
$93 title, tags, registration
$181 in "service" fees ($35 messenger processing, $18 electronic processing, $5 notary, $3 copy/fax, $120 admin/clerical) Sigh.
$65 Passenger wheelspeed sensor (I broke it through stupidity)
$4007 total out of pocket
Slight adjustment.
Weather permitting, the Phoenix will be at Carlisle this weekend on the autocross track.
However, over the past couple months, I've been getting a thump from the rear when crossing bumps and potholes. Turns out the rear shocks haven't held up well either, so I replaced them (Rock Auto discount code FTW) using the technique here: http://billswebspace.com/FMStage1DIY.htm
The great thing is the rear shocks can be swapped without touching any other suspension components or affecting the alignment. Cool! Getting to the tops of the rear shocks is a stretch and with my 17mm ratcheting wrench not working, manual removal was SLOW. Left side access can be improved by removing the fuel fill
(left side with shock removed)
(new shock on the bottom. Looks like a slight increase in ride height, but I'm OK with that as I tend to keep the trunk loaded with stuff for work)
(the picture really doesn't do it justice. Left bump stop had a little over 1/2" remaining. It pretty much crumbled and I moved the metal cap to the new one, which is about 6" long!)
Thanks to AWSX1686 for the loan of a 17mm ratcheting GearWrench for reinstallation. Reinstallation was delayed because the bump stops were disintegrated down to about 3/4" in length. Normally about 6-7" So reinstallation had a day's delay to source parts from NAPA & borrow the 17mm GearWrench. SO much easier. But "Reassembly is the reverse of removal. " my butt! I was able to get the top nut on the shock, then use my floor jack to compress it for mounting at the bottom, which compressed the rubber mount enough to properly reassemble the top end. As recommended in the site, I did drive the car up and down the driveway, then back up on to ramps to torque down the lower bolts with the rear suspension under load.
(riding a bit higher in the back)
After completion, the suspension feels *so* much better!
The not so great - I either disconnected a wheelspeed sensor or broke a wire. No ABS or TCS for the moment - but that actually improves my launches. I'll hunt for that before heading up to Carlisle in the morning.
Add ~$100 each for the rear Bilsteins and ~$28 each side for bump stops / gaiters.
And $6 for a stoplight flasher for the raised "don't hit me" center brake light.
new total: $4269 ($3601 "Challenge budgeting")
Every car I own that has a 3rd brake light gets a flashing bulb. Seriously the best for stop and go traffic.
Turns out I missed reconnecting the driver's side rear wheelspeed sensor. All is well!
Why is the spring perch on the new shock reversed from the old one? I think the new one is assembled wrong.
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:Why is the spring perch on the new shock reversed from the old one? I think the new one is assembled wrong.
Which would also explain the increase in rear ride height.
In reply to karplus2 :
Yep....and I can see the exposed C-clip on the new one. It should be shrouded by the perch, at least that's the way my NB Bilsteins are assembled.
In reply to Greg Smith (Forum Supporter) :
You need to pull those rears back out and reverse the spring perches pronto! Thank DeadSkunk and Karplus2 as well. I missed that in the photo, and those C-clips will vacate their grooves installed this way.
In reply to Greg Smith (Forum Supporter) :
Greg, those perches are likely very, very tight on the shock body if they're anything like the ones on my NB. I had to drive mine off with a hammer. You might try heating them with a heat gun to expand the aluminum and try not to heat the shock body. They will go back together easily if you put the shocks in the freezer and the perches in the oven first. OR, take them back to wherever you got them and get a correct pair. Either way this needs to be corrected.
Great eyes that is definitely not right. Greg that is probably why your car was so loose on the autocross track with the rear sitting so high it had to affect the rear geometry. At least it should be not too difficult to fix.
Yeah, good eyes. Now that you all point it out, it makes a lot of sense!
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