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bonylad
bonylad Reader
10/1/20 9:23 a.m.

My lord, do you and your husband have a YouTube channel?  I'd love to see this stuff on there!

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
10/12/20 10:50 a.m.

@bonylad I made a channel called Randy's Rides back when I picked up the Autozam, but I haven't posted anything on it. I'd like to have done videos of all of this a la  Garage Kei but I only have a phone and an old GoPro and a strong lack of time and editing ability. And the patience to stage a camera while I'm working on a car.

BUT. The van's turbo has been rebuilt and installed. The Eclipse is roadworthy except for its lack of a catalytic converter. I'm FINALLY ready to start focusing on the Autozam again. I sent a message to the machine shop to check the status on the rear brake kit but no response yet. I just found out that JD Powersports seems to have gone under two years ago so I'm without an option for upgraded rods, which is what I was planning to purchase first. Idk if I can call Carrillo and have them remake the rods to JDP's original specs or if I have to start over from scratch on this.

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
10/28/20 2:47 p.m.

A full set of OE wheel bearings and seals arrived from Japan and has been dropped off in Cincinnati. Still no ETA for the rear knuckles and brakes, though.

bonylad
bonylad Reader
10/28/20 3:46 p.m.

In reply to randman2011 :

Got ya. I found a channel named Randy's Rides. Dont think its yours though.  Motorcycle guy?  Either way I will check out the Garage Kei. Thanks!  Good luck!

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
11/30/20 3:47 p.m.

If anyone was curious, the AZ-1 tail light OD is 130mm for both outer brake/DRL and inner turn/reverse housings. They are perfect circles but they are angled slightly to match the contour of the not-perfectly-flat rear end. The mounting surfaces ARE flat, so either the mounting solutions for aftermarket tail lights would have to be angled or the lights will stick out a little on the outside edge and/or be inset on the inside edge.

For the purposes of inserting LED rings inside the factory housings, the ID of the lens is 120mm but there are three screws and flanges around the housing that reduce the maximum possible OD of such a ring to be exactly 90mm. Profile's dual intensity diffused red rings have an ID of 76mm and would fit weill in the housings. You know, if anyone is curious.

I also learned today that AZ-1 turn/reverse housings were unavailable from Mazda because they were used in aftermarket tail light kits for the NA Miata back in the early 2000s that were immensely popular despite being quite unfortunate looking. They are back in stock in Japan these days, though, but they cost $158 per side.

I just want the lens because mine are super UV damaged and scratched, but nope. Not sold separately. I have opted to not do anything with my lights except maybe install some LEDs at the rear.

bonylad said:

In reply to randman2011 :

Got ya. I found a channel named Randy's Rides. Dont think its yours though.  Motorcycle guy?  Either way I will check out the Garage Kei. Thanks!  Good luck!

Yeah, that is most definitely not me. I wonder what happened to my email and channel then...

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
3/22/21 4:25 p.m.

It has been many moons since the failed attempt to swap Geo Metro convertible knuckles and hubs onto the back of the AZ-1, and today the rebuild of the factory knuckles has finally commenced. Here's the OE hub modified to take an AE86 rotor. Now it just needs M12 lug studs, a new caliper bracket for the NA6 calipers, and a parking brake adapter.

Once the car is back on the road I can reassess engine goals and finally start accumulating parts. Long ago I gave up on dealing with the OE turbo guessing game. The GT2554R is the smallest water cooled turbo from Garrett's catalog that meets my performance goals, so I'm going with either that or the GT2560 since they're the same hot side. The 0.64 A/R housing is quite big for this project so maybe I can have a DSM 0.49 or GT-R 0.48 A/R housing machined to fit the GT series and get some spool back. The current struggle is with the rotating assembly, though. Monster Sport sells a φ71mm kit for 718cc displacement for ~$1200 at current exchange rates. Pistons, wrist pins, sleeves, and rings. It reuses the factory rods. JUN sells an 830cc kit that includes 72mm (+4) pistons, sleeves, wrist pins, rings, rods, and a 68mm (+7.2) crankshaft for $6000 when it came out in 2013. I'll probably want all of the displacement that I can get (hand-wavy math says a GT2554R in the 0.64 housing will "spool" just below 6000 RPM) and it's nice that everything comes as one kit, but that's a lot of cash for an off-the-shelf part and I'm always wary of bumping the stroke because I love revving my turbo engines to the moon. With that much more displacement, cams will be pretty important. Neither JUN nor Monster Sport have cam options for this engine. In fact, the only company I have found that DOES offer cams for the "New Standard" K6A is News-GT1 but I don't know if that includes the VVT model or not. And they're regrinds so I would have to send my (or a spare) set to Japan for machinework. 

Of course, the other option is to go custom. Darton can spec custom MID sleeves. I don't know what the minimum bore is but they have a D16 kit that's 75mm bore and off-the-shelf sleeve blanks that go down to 69mm bore so the bigger question is how much space there is in the block to play with. Pretty much any piston company will make a set of custom pistons and from what I hear they're not that expensive, and that would give me the ability to spec a compression ratio that doesn't begin with 8. Same story with rods. Custom aren't that difficult but I've heard stories of minimum orders for rods. Interestingly, JUN sources their rods from either Cosworth or Carillo depending on the kit. Cams.....I have no idea. People do regrinds all the time. Delta, Crower, and Kelford all do custom regrinds but for as indecisive as I am about the rest of these parts it could be years before I come to a conclusion. I would definitely need someone to hold my hand through that process. I've heard nothing but bad things about the OE bearings for the F6A and about a lack of aftermarket support, but I don't know if ACL or someone could make bearings to a spec.

But it's hard to focus on all of these questions when the car isn't even on the ground right now. Step 1: Get car on ground. Step 2: Hoon. Step 3: Hoon, continued. Step 4: Spend all of my money.

Robbie (Forum Supporter)
Robbie (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/22/21 8:27 p.m.

Step 1: get car on ground. Step 2: hoon.

Truth. I need a sign that says this in my shop.

singleslammer
singleslammer GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
3/23/21 8:03 p.m.

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

I can do that! 

One of these days someone will take me up on that. 

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
4/21/21 8:27 p.m.

This is less of an update and more of me keeping links all in one place, but here we go.

I have come to the realization that I picked a gigantic turbo because I have chosen to increase the displacement and I have chosen to increase the displacement because I selected a gigantic turbo. So I had a rethink today and I'm going back to my original plan. 658cc stock displacement rebuild of the K6A. GT1446Z turbo tuned for between 160 and 180hp at around 20 psi of boost. Unfortunately the smoking deals on new 1446Zs aren't as available as they were when I was last looking into it, but I'm going to get a super cheap used one for mock-up purposes anyway. Because I have been very irresponsible with my credit card this month (they were the last BNIB set of cams in the entirety of the Americas!) I am waiting until my credit card rolls over to make the purchase, but it's time to start buying parts for this build!

Pistons will be custom. I'm not impressed with the 8.4:1 compression offered by Monster Sport's ~$850 piston kit and I haven't found other stock displacement options, so I'll custom spec a set. For anyone else building a K6A, however, I have found that Vivid Racing stocks the JUN 830cc stroker kit!

Rods might remain stock. From what has been posted online, I won't be pushing them hard enough to exceed the limits of the factory ones. Still considering a custom set anyway, but we'll see. 

Exhaust manifold will probably be custom. With a more realistic displacement/turbine housing pairing I am less concerned about exhaust volume, so I might be able to go for something equal length instead of doing a log style with runners as short as possible. There are plenty of off-the shelf manifolds to choose from that I could have reflanged, including some very cheap ones.

Vivid racing also stocks JUN's "sports" clutch and flywheel kit for a reasonable $750. I am not dead set on the JUN parts specifically, but I am trying to avoid the three puck clutch that pervades the Suzuki performance offerings (Cough Monster Sport Cough) and the availability as a kit from a recognized retailer is a huge plus.

I'm much less concerned about cams with the stock displacement. New plan is to build the engine with the stock cams and reassess once everything is running again.

Intercooler is still up in the air. I would prefer to remain air-to-air but the intercoolers on the Fiat 500 Abarth are each identical in dimensions to the 2g Eclipse sidemount but the Fiat has two of them. I'll be pushing the same turbo to the same power level, so I may not have enough space/airflow to remain air-to-air. But maybe an efficient core and some powerful fans can get me there?

Still going flex fuel. Still going Megasquirt. None of those plans have changed. No updates on the brakes beyond finding that the NA Miata parking brake cables will work just fine with the AZ-1 support brackets swapped over, but they will require an amazingly simple adapter on the chassis side to hold the cable sleeves in place.

Also I forgot to mention that we've bought another car from Japan. This is all my husband's fault. I accept no responsibility for this development. Getting the car out of Japan has been an absolute berkeleying disaster and the plans have changed several times without my knowledge (including changing the destination port) but current ETA is Monday, May 24th. The day that the husband got picked for jury duty.

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter)
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
4/22/21 5:16 a.m.

In reply to randman2011 :

Congrats on the new car! Sorry about all the other troubles though. 

randman2011
randman2011 New Reader
6/30/21 4:07 p.m.

Big update. The biggest. Yuge!

It lives! I got it together just in time to take it to the wedding of the machinist who has been fabricating the brake kit. 

This kit converts from captive rotors to replaceable rotors, increases the rotor diameter to 231mm, roughly doubles the swept area, and opens up unlimited pad options. The rotor is a rear AE86 unit. The caliper is from an NA Miata. The bracket is custom fabricated from 3D scans of the NA8 rear bracket, modified to bolt to the OE AZ-1 knuckle. The M10 studs were upgraded to M12x1.5 with ARP extended lug studs. Disregard the blood.

They work great and I'm not noticing any problems from the extreme rear bias, but it wasn't exactly smooth sailing getting them installed. A second design iteration for the bracket is in progress to fix these issues for production, but here's what I ran into.

The rotor is not centered in the bracket opening. One side was rubbing slightly. Not a big deal and easy to fix in round 2.

Parking brake bracket fouls sway bar at full droop. Instead of having symmetrical brackets, the new design will rotate the caliper around the knuckle a few degrees to move it up and away from the sway bar and to have a more level angle for the parking brake cable itself. I knew this wouldn't be quite right going into it, but I didn't expect it to actually be a problem. Oh well.

This is not the fault of the kit design, but at some point my knuckle was dropped or mishandled in the press, mangling the ball joint boss threads. I didn't realize how soft cast iron is, and 5 minutes with a dremel and a tap and it was as good as new. However, I did have to go to a machine shop to get the LCA inserted into the mounting boss because the tabs were so tight. When I asked Sam about this, he said that he had to press the old one out because of how tight it was, so I guess this isn't a new thing. 

The parking brake cables will be NA Miata units which will almost be a direct swap. A bracket is required to bolt them to the chassis at the E-brake handle so for now I'm going without a parking brake. Such a pain!

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