A while back, i modified my fuel tank to give me provisions for mounting a modern EFI sending unit, but I never leak checked my welding. So i rigged up my bike pump and pressurized the tank, and sprayed soapy water on the joints to test for bubbles.
Found and marked a few spots that needed my attention, but apparently I did a better job than I thought. I got those spots prepped/rewelded.
The next problem to solve is the sending unit. I have a China special sending unit for an LS1 camaro that I was hoping to modify, but it's just too tall. After recessing the top flange on the tank for clearance to the trunk floor, there's only 5.75" local depth inside the tank. The pump itself is almost 5" tall so that's no good.
I think i'm going to just fab my own "bucket" thing out of some thin sheetmetal I have laying around and call that good enough. I don't plan to really drive this car in anger so it'll be fine.
I need to put fuel lines in the car, the cheaper the better. I have a modern OEM quick connect at both ends and nothing in the midde. What's the hot ticket? Nicopp?
In reply to budget_bandit :
Nicopp is good, so is nylon
Nicopp with compression fittings is about as easy as it gets.
In reply to Shavarsh :
Thanks for the word. I was leaning nicopp since i'll be replumbing brakes too
I love my nicopp.
If you wind up with an fittings and line anywhere, definitely buy the ptfe lined stuff.
Is there any reason I shouldn't route brake lines and fuel lines together from the firewall to the back of the car? They'd be separated by some rubber or something to prevent rubbing, but within an inch or two of each other. I would think that's fine?
That's the way my Miata and my neon get it from the factory. Both of those had little plastic brackets that bolted to the frame rails that separated them and retained them neatly. If I can remember the next time I get down into the shop I may have some spare that will fit 5/16 fuel line and 8-in brake line for the metric equivalent thereof. Please excuse talk to text
You can certainly run them together. I held them like THIS if you're looking for inspiration.
Good deal, thanks for the sanity check. I need to map out what fittings I need and then it's time to order some lines.
Tonight I started working on hooking the clutch master cylinder up. I bought one from an 82-92 f-body since i'm so familiar with the platform, and it's an odd mount. It passes thru the firewall at like 45 degrees.
I made a cardboard mockup of the firewall to get the location right and make the linkage work, seems like it will workout really well with the factory hole in the clutch pedal.
Just have to pop some holes in the firewall and it should all bolt in. I also put the new trunklid on, and it turns out to be the same color as the OE paint lol
I also pulled a junkyard steering box from an 82-92 f-body (surprise) because I like their ratio and steering feel and did a rattlecan rebuild on it. Ready to go in
Do I need to paint my steel fuel pump bucket with something? Will bare steel rust badly if submerged in gasoline?
I would leave it bare. I would be more concerned about anything that it's coated with coming off and causing problems. You might use ospho to treat it for better rust resistance. I have used that in rusted tanks that I have cleaned to good effect with no problems.
In reply to madmrak351 :
That was my worry, any paint would just melt and clog up the pump. Will leave it bare metal.
Modified my brake master cylinder to fit: stock one had an adjustable clevis that I liked, so i cut off the fixed length hole on the new mc (that was the wrong length anyway) and welded it on. Forgot to take an after pic but i have a before
Added some gussets to my gas pedal mounts because they were flexing too much.
The steering wheel that came with the car was missing the horn button, so I snagged this sweet looking wheel on FB for $25 and i'm really stoked with it
My parents bought a 1975 Ventura, brown over brown, with a straight 6 and a three speed, I remember riding around it in as a kid. We even took it to Germany when my Dad got stationed there with the Army in 82. He sold it to a soldier who rebuild the motor and then sold it back to my Dad when we moved back to the states.
Got a parts order in today, I'm still waiting on a few misc fittings and the fuel filter but this is almost everything I need for fuel/brake plumbing. 3/16" line for the front discs, 1/4" line for the rear drums, 3/8" for fuel supply. All nicopp, with OEM style quick connects for easy fuel system servicing. Time to get plumbing
Clutch master cylinder is in! 
I think I posted before that the car was leaning to one side in the rear. The driver's rear fender was almost 2" lower than the passenger rear. Yesterday I put the car up on 4 jackstands and the fenders are level. I think this means the car is straight, unfortunately I think it also means that my leaf springs are garbage.
I'm bummed about that because I was planning to get the car running with the stock stuff and then in the future, either build a 3 link rear setup with coil springs or stick an IRS in there. I don't really want to take the time now to build a new rear suspension, but I'm also not crazy about spending money on new leafs that i'm just going to replace later.
Take your main leaf, and add leafs from a junkyard pack to rebuild. I like dodge durango packs myself. Shorter leaves are stiffer if I remember correctly.
Building a custom junkyard pack for ~100 bucks should be a good midway point for you.
Just mix and match leaves and lowering blocks until you get the height and ride you want
I bet you find a broken leaf in the lower side on your car.
How much are replacement springs? I had to replace mine due to a failed inspection in my Pinto. I was devastated due to the cost, but it then took me 3-4 years to get around to replacing the rear suspension. Money well spent to be on the road.
Or Dusters method sounds pretty ideal!
Summit lists stock replacement springs as well as 2 inch drop springs. 109 each plus 9.99 oversize shipping.
Rockauto also lists them for similar price but their shipping is going to go way over 9.99 each.
I didn't look at Amazon, but I have ordered more than a few leaf springs from them and gotten free shipping on them.
I have monoleafs rather than a traditional pack, so no hidden leaves to be broken. Also prevents me (I think) from customizing a leaf pack unless i replace the main leaf, i'll still have mis-matched springs side to side.
I've seen the cheaper springs for ~$110 each but they have some pretty poor reviews which is why i didn't immediately jump on it. But that may just be a case of it'll be good enough and i need to not expect too much from a 50yr old suspension design lol
