rslifkin wrote: Most cars won't clear codes with the engine running. My Jeep doesn't, has to be key on, engine off to clear them.
It seems to mainly be a Euro thing. BMW will, but my Volvo won't. Some Chryslers do (but not all). Ford, you HAVE to clear them with the engine running if you want to cheat it and force it to run most/all the monitors on one drive cycle.
After you get some miles on it and can term the repair a success, someone needs to send a note to whoever linked the thread to MSN (Hot Rod mag?) and update the world.
I gave Benjamin Hunting from Road Kill an update. He's the only one who wrote about the van that actually talked to me first, so I gave him the scoop. Looking forward to an update from him.
I spent way way way way longer than I want to admit figuring out that I do have power to the AC compressor with the engine running, but both the high side and low side of the system read the same pressure and they don't change. This leads me to believe that something is wrong with the clutch/compressor. Applying 12V to the pigtail coming off the compressor doesn't result in a click, so I'm thinking clutch. How does a clutch go bad sitting on the shelf?
Just curious if you have a running total on parts, tools, services - a wrap up of the resources it took to pull off this feat? And any particular highlights you enjoyed most (not that the whole saga is over yet)? I thought it was cool how you separated the inseparable intake bits, found a way to fix the unfixable - and that beautiful tool slippery came up with...
Timing chains and tensioners on audis and bmws seem a lot less intimidating these days mostly because you and a few others jump in a show the rest of us the way. For that matter I was thrilled to just clean a couple of bike carbs, put it back together and have it run. Got to be some serious satisfaction with pulling off a project of that size/complexity.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Because GRM.
Soooo thrilled that you got the beast resurrected!!!
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to ronniejay: That second picture is absolutely the picture of the week! Brilliant! I used to drive past the Delorean shop when I worked. It was long enough ago that I think they're in a different building now, but it was the highlight of my commute. I'm glad you're getting so much done, if you need extra hands, don't be afraid to call, and you've still got that lunch coming once the van is sorted, don't forget.
We are looking forward with great anticipation. Sort it out, relax, have fun with family, even build some cabinets - we can wait.
In reply to oldtin:
No running total, but I will add everything up when I'm sure I'm "done". I would have thought I had the cost pretty much nailed down a week ago, but then I bought a $200 battery, $100 in fluids, a vacuum pump, and I just called the parts store to pick up a new compressor and dryer tomorrow for $500. I think I also need to replace the aux battery which is $50. And get the transmission fluid changed which is something like $400. 
At least it runs, so I've got that going for me.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Knurled wrote: In reply to mazdeuce: You may have to cycle the key before clearing them. Or after. I haven't yet encountered it with a Mercedes, but on some BMWs, the computer seems to be bicameral and stores codes both in BMW-specific (what a real scantool reads) and generic OBD-II (what inexpensive dongles read). And you have to clear them individually, resetting only one will leave the other set of fault codes in place. One of those learning experiences that make my forehead taller.
This may explain my recurring cam angle sensor code in the 540... Off to clear both!
It never occurred to me to clear the codes with the car off, so I'm glad it was mentioned. When I was having issues with the Insight I was clearing codes while driving to see where they popped back up. I guess that would be a bit harder on the R63.
Congratulations Now I need to start on my project again.
This is a good excuse for a celebratory burnout. 
Does the a/c compressor have a clutch? Many newer compressors use a solenoid to control flow through the compressor rather than using a clutch. The solenoid may also be available for replacement if that ends up being the issue.
Edit: confirmed by looking at an image of the compressor, its the solenoid controlled type. I would do more fiddling around before hanging a whole compressor. That solenoid may not make a click noise even if it's working correctly.
mazdeuce wrote: Applying 12V to the pigtail coming off the compressor doesn't result in a click, so I'm thinking clutch. How does a clutch go bad sitting on the shelf?
So how do I troubleshoot one of those?
I'm not sure, the signal to the solenoid is pulse width modulated so even if you have voltage it may not be enough to open the solenoid. Hopefully one of the Mercedes forum guys chips in with some shortcuts. Make sure the pressure switch is connected. Having a scan tool capable of monitoring the climate control system makes it simpler.
Is this thing even capable of an honest-to-goodness burnout being heavy and AWD? (Not to mention traction control.)
If so, I'd pay to see it chained in the grosh doing a Ken Block/Hoonicorn burnout.
I've never spun the tires really. It just sort of grabs and goes. It is MUCH faster to 30 than the V wagon.
Yeah, I can imagine that.
ansonivan wrote: I'm not sure, the signal to the solenoid is pulse width modulated so even if you have voltage it may not be enough to open the solenoid. Hopefully one of the Mercedes forum guys chips in with some shortcuts. Make sure the pressure switch is connected. Having a scan tool capable of monitoring the climate control system makes it simpler.
When I checked at the pigtail it was holding steady at 14.3V. I was using the worlds cheapest Harbor Freight voltmeter, but it works on everything else.
The STAR service manual is lean on troubleshooting.
mazdeuce wrote: So how do I troubleshoot one of those?
Will call my a/c guy at COOLFLOW tomorrow for some advice.
Just caught up, Soooo awesome to see it start up!
And thanks to Mrs Deuce for the video!
mazdeuce wrote: It never occurred to me to clear the codes with the car off, so I'm glad it was mentioned. When I was having issues with the Insight I was clearing codes while driving to see where they popped back up. I guess that would be a bit harder on the R63.
It was very frustrating for us when my Volvo was a shop loaner vehicle. We couldn't get it to run ANY monitors so we could put plates on it. Drove it as long as a half hour, never ran any monitors.
Then, in some obscure corner of iATN while searching for something else entirely, we discovered the little helpful bit of information that the Siemens ECM will not run any monitors if there is something plugged into the DLC. NOW they frickin' tell us. What's the first thing we do when driving a car to run monitors? Keep a scan tool plugged in so we can check to see if they ran yet or not!
I have used this to cheat. If I found that sufficient monitors had run for me to pass emissions, but it hadn't set the cam correlation fault, I'd drive around with the scantool plugged in until I could get to the test station. 
On the A/C, the clutch is probably still good. Might be the system isn't seeing the proper pressure and its not activating. How did you fill the system? I only have experience on older systems, but I always had to bypass the pressure sensor to trigger the clutch to fill the system.
Crackers wrote: Is this thing even capable of an honest-to-goodness burnout being heavy and AWD? (Not to mention traction control.) If so, I'd pay to see it chained in the grosh doing a Ken Block/Hoonicorn burnout.
hey now.. no reason to pull down the grosh
In reply to redlx50:
Drew down the system with a vacuum pump, filled with the proper amount of refrigerant as per MB instructions in the low side port through the gauges. Check low side and high side pressure, they have pressure and are the same. The compressor isn't engaging. The plug to the compressor has 14v to it. This is the only wire going into the compressor. My troubleshooting is pretty much exhausted.
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