Get it done. Just spend the good money.
Get it done. Just spend the good money.
mazdeuce wrote: The new code reader says I have a 9006 which is a short in the compressor. Is it really a short in the compressor? That's harder to tell. The only electrical part is the valve that regulates coolant flow through the compressor. I'm thinking that means that it somehow went bad on the shelf. Not sure how that happens, but maybe it was on it's last legs? Or maybe it's something else? The only thing I can find wrong in the whole system is the aux battery is sitting at about 11v. I can't see how that would be a concern, but I plugged in the trickle charger and we'll see if it tops up the whole system or just the big battery.
I'm not familiar with that system but it seems like clearing the code, unplugging the compressor and rechecking codes would help verify that the problem is, indeed inside the compressor. If it's the compressor I'd expect a new open circuit code or something along those lines. If the harness is shorted then the short code will come back. It would be interesting to see what the resistance is between the wire on the compressor and ground. I don't know what it should be but it shouldn't be a dead short.
I have a high mileage Bi-turbo, has almost 45,000 miles. You can't leave these outside in the sun or the rain, they are not built for that kind of abuse. Also never leave home without the AAA card and a phone. If per chance the turn signal fuse were to blow, the engine will shut off. It is more a work of art than a actual car. Reliable, ha it's Italian...
He claims "Easy to work on" his must be different than mine....
TED_fiestaHP wrote: He claims "Easy to work on" his must be different than mine....
It's the amount of practice one gets with BiTurbo ownership. You don't know it but your skills are razor sharp.
Jerry From LA wrote:TED_fiestaHP wrote: He claims "Easy to work on" his must be different than mine....It's the amount of practice one gets with BiTurbo ownership. You don't know it but your skills are razor sharp.
I figured it was because the convertible top allowed you to more easily dangle your feet in the air while "assuming the position" under the dash?
going_west wrote: bi-turbo convertible on CL Denver
The text of the ad just further exemplifies the delusion of the typical Biturbo owner.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Whip out your trusty Harbor freight electrical meter and compare ohm readings between the 2 parts. Your in of a bit more difficult situation as far as access to the solenoid. The VW was right on the bottom and after removing the plastic piece under the engine it is right there.
If the two parts show the same resistance between the wires and each wire to the compressor case you may have an issue in the control wires. Or you may have that code because the valve is stuck and drawing max current for too long. thus setting the fault code.
You could turn the heat to the max setting and check to see if you loose voltage at the connector going to the A/C compressor. Then you could be somewhat confident your climate controls in the cabin are working.
Just a thought
Scott
Gunchsta wrote:icguy75 wrote: Another route on a new project...how about a B6 Audi S4 that's ready to grenade itself? Preferably with a manual trans. Maybe even an Avant? Just think of all the engine out, timing chain goodness...Haha aren't those always ready to grenade themselves?
Nah, they aren't that bad, don't believe everything you read on the Internet. :)
Also, there are at least a few writeups out there on DIY timing chain replacements for S4s.
In reply to ScottS778:
Thanks for typing all of that out. You're right, I need to poke around a bit more before I decide to take it all apart. From underneath I can get to the compressor and check the pigtail and such.
In reply to mazdeuce: If you do Scott's diagnostic procedure, make you're in "heat" and not "defrost." The difference of course is the air conditioning compressor will be energized during defrost. I've made that mistake.
In reply to Jerry From LA:
Thanks Jerry, I see that got lost somewhere between the ears and the keyboard. :)
Scott
In reply to mazdeuce:
let me know how you like that code reader, I was going to order the same one.
Ok, some data. If I unplug the compressor k get a 9007 code, something about circuit malfunction. With it plugged in I get a 9006, compressor short. Voltage is 13.4 with the AC on and 0.4 with it off. However, when I look deeper into the menus it says it's asking for 0% compressor, even at 13.4v. it will briefly flash to 4% or so and then throw the code. I'm tempted to think the compressor/solenoid is being flaky. Any thoughts?
In reply to mazdeuce:
I would Think the solenoid is an issue.
If you check the ohm reading on the 2 wires what is the ohm reading of the coil itself? When you find the resistance plug the value in here http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator Then you will know what amp draw to expect. The wire size will give you an indication of what the manufacturer expects to see also. If it some weird number like 400 amps or .00002 amps you know the coil is bad.
Another thing to try is some jumper wires to the solenoid itself, just determine proper polarity and connect and disconnect and you should be able to hear a click as the solenoid moves. You may need a stethoscope to hear it as it is buried in the compressor,
Did you get your batteries charged up? I just changed the battery in the VW yesterday. A few days ago the dash compass quit working, last time the battery went out the compass quit and the buttons on steering wheel went out when the battery got down to 140 cranking amps. Just weirdness from german cars. :)
I have a feeling the computer is looking for a change in pressure across the compressor when it gives out the 4% if it does not see it fairly quick it shuts off for fear of burning up the compressor.
Yes I spent a lot of time reading about these compressors while getting off the fence about changing the valve in mine.
Scott
Maz-
I have been lurking for months – great story. I just now joined as I thought I might be able to help with the A/C issue.
Everything in the car is controlled by a control module or SAM (Signal Acquisition Module). Not like the old days when power is sent to a component to switch it on. The compressor will only be brought on (tilting the swash plate so that refrigerant is pumped) if there are no fault codes in the A/C system and possibly even other modules.
The 9006 code that has been set can be due to an actual short circuit, but also due to low refrigerant, low outside air temp (or no temp signal from the outside air sensor), low evaporator temp, a poor connection in one of several connectors, and other such issues. As you can see, several of these possibilities have been or are currently present in your situation. The 9007 code is an open circuit.
Since the 9006 keeps coming back, the focus should be on the other things that can cause it. Is there any way to get more of the full refrigerant charge into the system (heat the container the refrigerant is in with a heat gun??) then try to get as much of the 1,220 grams as you can in so that can be taken off of the potential problem list.
Is the outside air temp sensor connected and working? Have you checked to see if there are any codes set for it not being connected for the initial startup? If so, clear them. Are there any other codes for anything else – related to the A/C or not, that you can see?
If neither of these two items resolves it there is a trouble shooting regimen we can go through to better determine where the problem actually is.
In reply to mchild:
Thanks for chiming in. With the new scan tool I could see pressure in the system 6 bar, and the temperature readings of all the temperature sensor. I cleared every code on the car yesterday most of them stored low voltage codes from when the battery died. The only codes that came back are for sunroof calibration, and the compressor. There is probably more I could have done, but I had the new one right there and I was not happy, so I changed it. The aluminum bolt that holds the dryer on stripped. Fixing that was going to require pulling the condenser, so I've still got the old dryer on there. I don't always make great decisions this far into a project. 
Good god I made a mess. I'll get some refrigerant into the system tonight and button it all up some time tomorrow. Maybe of note, the new compressor was as smooth as you'd expect, while the old one as noticeably "sticky" in it's operation. Fingers crossed.
codrus wrote: The other non-minivan thing about the R class is that's longitudinal RWD/AWD. Pretty much every other minivan-ish thing is a transverse FWD (OK, except for the crazy Previa). The "minivan" class is pretty much only sold in the US & Canada, Europe gets an "MPV" class which is similar but not quite the same. I think the R class is an MPV that got imported to the US by mistake, rather than a minivan.
Except the GMC/Chevy Safari/Astro and Ford Aerostar...both RWD, and AWD. Mercedes were just too late to play catch up.
JamesGTRS
Love this story! Binge read the entire thread. I drive an ML6.3 AMG for work
One of the potential issues as to why the system has not been working is the need to initiate a compressor. I have assumed that was not done, but correct me if I am wrong.
Unfortunately, to initiate the compressor may only work using the MB Star Diagnosis System (SDS). The procedure is to fully re-charge the system with refrigerant, turn off the climate control system, start the engine, and with SDS connected, select the initiation step and the SDS takes it through that process. It take a couple of minutes to complete and the lights of the in-dash control unit will flash as the process is progresing. If the initiation step is not done and the system is attempted to be operated, it will deactivate the compressor.
If you can use your tool to initiate then that would be a step in the right direction.
I will note that there is no mention in WIS pertaining to your car for the need to initiate the compressor, but it is for every other car. Not sure if it was an oversight but it is in the SDS system as a reason for the compressor to be deactivated and the initiation function is available in the climate control module section of SDS. Therefore, I have assume it was an oversight that it is not in WIS.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to mchild: Thanks for chiming in. With the new scan tool I could see pressure in the system 6 bar, and the temperature readings of all the temperature sensor. I cleared every code on the car yesterday most of them stored low voltage codes from when the battery died. The only codes that came back are for sunroof calibration, and the compressor. There is probably more I could have done, but I had the new one right there and I was not happy, so I changed it. The aluminum bolt that holds the dryer on stripped. Fixing that was going to require pulling the condenser, so I've still got the old dryer on there. I don't always make great decisions this far into a project.Good god I made a mess. I'll get some refrigerant into the system tonight and button it all up some time tomorrow. Maybe of note, the new compressor was as smooth as you'd expect, while the old one as noticeably "sticky" in it's operation. Fingers crossed.
I went to bed thinking about having to re-initialize the compressor and how I was going to so that. It was hard to turn my brain off. I woke up at 4:30 and my brain started right back up again. I tried to fall back asleep, but was in the Grosh with coffee by 5:15. This is becoming a problem.
It took about an hour to recharge and reassemble everything and.....success!
The computer calls for the compressor, and the compressor works! Cold air, happy AC. Further test driving once Mrs. Deuce wakes up and I can get actual clothes.
Awesome!!!
Now get it ready to drive up north!!! 
In your jammies wrenching in the Grosh, nice!
I keep a set of work clothes out there. I did walk out in my PJs, change into work clothes, work for an hour, change back into my PJs, and then come inside to wash compressor oil out of my hair. Compressor oil is worse than motor oil in your hair, but not as bad as gear oil. It doesn't seem to have the long lasting conditioning effects of ATF either.
You'll need to log in to post.
