Just wicked.
What is the planned final paint scheme?
Just wicked.
What is the planned final paint scheme?
ST_ZX2 wrote: Just wicked. What is the planned final paint scheme?
Either all white with a checkerboard pattern on the hood and front fenders or Dodge GoMango orange.
I bought a grille and when I went to fit it, I discovered that the opening was all wrong because the fenders were not positioned correctly. Once I had the grille in the proper place, I built a single lower aluminum plate and two top aluminum straps to hold it in place.
And Richard Navin from the MG Experience forum (MGB246) came all the way from Grimsby, Ontario to see the car so I gave him a ride, here's the video, not sure why the audio is so poor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uD6r6EHAXs
Mo'sickle shocks. Been there, done that. 
This is one great car! Maybe you, me and Kiesel will wind up at the Nats together someday!
Curmudgeon wrote: Mo'sickle shocks. Been there, done that.
Kiesel and I will be there this year, what's holding you up?
My endplates were too big so I trimmed them and think it looks better now. I added adjustable struts to the back and now the boot lid can be opened without unbolting the spoiler. I also didn't want an ugly spoiler lip up front so I took a page from the Toyota GT-ONE race car and put an air dam behind the regular spoiler and it can keep the air out from under the car without "spoiling" the look of the spoiler. The last pic is the front of the car with the spoiler and air dam installed-it's invisible, right?
In reply to loosecannon:
Great build! I'm curious, do you know the physical dimensions of the V-12? And what is a typical purchase price for one? I'm wondering if I could fit one into my TVR.
bravenrace wrote: In reply to loosecannon: Great build! I'm curious, do you know the physical dimensions of the V-12? And what is a typical purchase price for one? I'm wondering if I could fit one into my TVR.
It will fit in a box 36" Long, 39" wide, 25" high
loosecannon wrote:Curmudgeon wrote: Mo'sickle shocks. Been there, done that.Kiesel and I will be there this year, what's holding you up?
This year = out. OTOH, next year... 
Curmudgeon wrote:loosecannon wrote:This year = out. OTOH, next year...Curmudgeon wrote: Mo'sickle shocks. Been there, done that.Kiesel and I will be there this year, what's holding you up?
The question is: If it took me 8 months (6 months so far, another 2 for bodywork and paint) start to finish to build this car, how long will it take me to sort all it's bugs out and correct them over next winter?
Finished the drivers side of the firewall, which includes the complex and difficult footwell. I added an access panel so I can get at the master cylinders.
loosecannon wrote:Curmudgeon wrote:The question is: If it took me 8 months (6 months so far, another 2 for bodywork and paint) start to finish to build this car, how long will it take me to sort all it's bugs out and correct them over next winter?loosecannon wrote:This year = out. OTOH, next year...Curmudgeon wrote: Mo'sickle shocks. Been there, done that.Kiesel and I will be there this year, what's holding you up?
My dear departed dad quit smoking once and asked a friend who had been quit for about 7 years: 'How long before you get over the urge?' His answer: 'I have no idea.'
After two years I'm still working out bugs in the Jensenator. The Abomination (my rotary Spitfire which now belongs to Toyman on this board) still has a few remaining as well and that car was built between 2004/2006. I 'debugged' it steadily up till 2009 when he bought it. Now he's on his own. 
The pedal box looks great, but you must have little bitty feet. 
Size 11 wide
Gotta love Dzus fasteners. When I was building my racing Spitfires, I had the good fortune to be working in shop that did some aero work. They had all the bits and pieces, as well as the tools for pressing the captive bushings, etc.
Made a splitter out of a material called Alumilite. It has a corrugated center sandwiched between two sheets of aluminum. I still have to attach strut rods to hold the splitter up but you get the idea:
This is cool!
Hired a flatbed to haul the car to a dyno today, was super excited to see what it could do. On the way, the dyno people called to cancel then the flatbed driver crushed the bottom of the radiator while unloading-not a good day ;(
In reply to loosecannon:
You're more adventurous than I am. I would have stuck with a Rover V8 like the 3.9 or 4.2 l versions since they've been proven to work very well in an MGB. Cool project though, good luck with it.
Ok, finally got her on a dyno. My goals were 275 hp/300 ft/lb torque and I almost got them with 255 hp@5468 rpm and 300 ft/lb@4086 rpm. The first few pulls were to only 5000 rpm to solve a fuel pressure issue (stupid glass fuel filter was too restrictive) and then we moved on to timing. There wasn't enough timing in it so I had to re-index the distributor to get more advance and initially we were confused because power numbers were dropping drastically with each pull. Of course this throws off any useful data collection and we speculated that the liquid cooled (heated) intake manifold was causing the power drops because of heat soaking. We let the engine cool for 5 minutes and picked up 8hp and 30 ft/lbs torque so imagine if the intake charge could stay cool. Also, to get the intake air hot, Jaguar engineered two 90 degree bends that maximized the incoming air's exposure to the hot intake surface and these proved to be very restricitive. Power fell off above 5500 rpm so the only run where I went to 6000 rpm was the last one. I have already dropped off the intake manifolds to a fab shop and they are eliminating the liquid cooled part of the intake and the two 90 degree bends at the same time. I am also sending the cams to XKS Unlimited to be reground to their road race profile and that together with hp valve springs will raise the powerband to 7000 rpm. Listen to the video then imagine another 1500-2000 rpm-oh yeah!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsjvR5eZUTk
Here is a pic of the passenger side carbs. The air goes through the carb into the silver aluminum liquid cooled housing, makes a 90 degree straight up then another 90 degree turn to the right and into the intake and engine. I am eliminating the silver aluminum part, moving the carbs up and attaching directly to the black intake manifold:
loosecannon wrote: Size 11 wide
Any chance your left shoe might catch on that Dzus fastener?
kb58 wrote:loosecannon wrote: Size 11 wideAny chance your left shoe might catch on that Dzus fastener?
Yes, it may be a problem but my racing shoes are narrower than my runners. I can always put a little piece of aluminum over it.
Webers? EFI?
DILYSI Dave wrote: Webers? EFI?
Nah, both are prohibitavely expensive. There are a couple of companies which make Weber conversion kits-for $5000 plus linkage. There are some stand alond EFI systems available but that's a lot of fabrication and tuning time I don't have. By the time I got together all the pieces I needed, even a Megasquirt would be too costly and time consuming. For now, a simplified intake system using the Strombergs is what I am going with. Next winter I can analyze my season and see where my money is best spent.
Makes sense.
Cool how the first camera got blown over early in the dyno vid. I think Jag used those 'sink traps' on the intake for E type hood clearance. Putting the Strombergs sticking straight off the manifold will definitely be an improvement!
On EFI: I'm sure you thought of this already but if you start with a late V12 EFI manifold and injectors that will put you well ahead, probably for cheap. Megasquirts aren't expensive, I bet you could put together a pretty workable EFI for under a grand.
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