so i accidently bought a car and started a challenge team last night. have questions.

In reply to BlueInGreen44:

Thanks!

Dusterbd13 wrote: Also, there were concerns raised on another forum about the quality of the welds and design of the cage. By one guy. Who did it by private message. I haven't seen anything of concern. It actually looks better than most cages ive seen. What sayeth the hive? Before i write that dude off as a troll, i want to maake sure that he is.

Disclosure - I don't know what I'm talking about, but I would think that ending tubes in the middle of the main hoop in 2 locations is not ideal (see the interior pic). Hopefully others with actual experience will weigh in.

I really like the bullitt wheels on that car.

I was thinking E30 lights would look good there too.

In reply to klb67:

The lower door bar ends will land at the diagonals near the bottom of the main hoop, so that will be a node that takes the longitudinal and lateral forces entering the cage down low. The upper door bars will land at the cross bars in the middle of the main hoop (Harness bars), so they too will be a node in the cage structure.
The delay in getting the door bars in is due to time constraints and the fact that once they are in, getting into and out of the car will be a major PITA.

Thanks for the comments though, Steve.

In reply to stafford1500:

Thanks steve. Thats what i thought, but random troll had me wondering.

E30 lights also sounded good to me.

Bullitt wheels on that thing tightened my drawers a size or two.

If someone has e30 lights to donate, im game. I can't see it, but im willing to try.

And bullitt wheels come down to budget. 100 dollars on wheels, or 100 towards 3.73 gears and a limited slip?

But they do look GOOD.

The grill opening looks similar to a box S10 is size in shape. You might steal some ideas from customized S10s or find a cheap JY version to cut and trim.

Things look great!

I hate to disparage your work (and I certainly couldn't do any better), but it seems that you've seriously compromised flow in that tube. Might it be better to cut the whole section out and weld the elbow in closer to the flange?

In an ideal world, i would have the time and talent and budget to build longtubes that fit properly. We may still before its all over. But for the time being, the compromise shorties and crush bent 2.5 exhaust system will get us on the road. Believe me, im not happy about it. But were going racing with the car we built, not the car that we want to build.

The exhaust system is nowhere close to fitting. Time to stare and drink coffee. With the different headers, engine, engine placement, bigger trans (car had a t5 and 289 when this exhaust was built according to dallas) and trans crossmember, i shouldn't be suprised.

Where's Nick Blackhurst when you need him?

In reply to jstein77:

Having a bit of tea and waiting for us to hang all the grinders up on a grinder tree...

Mmmmm.....

Grinder tree.....

Reminds me i need to get more shielding gas.

Tohight we should finish the steering box swap and fuel system. May even get the coolers mounted up front.

Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200

Donor Lincoln town car: 410

Engine crossmember: 120

Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89

trans cooler: 2

Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot

Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)

2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05 Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.

6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65

Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .

Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10

Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)

Solid steel lowering blocks, with the holes drilled to offset the rear axle rearwards. $5

1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50

Mustang convertible mounts 22

Bending plate cost 25

Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90

Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65

2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14

Cage materials: 271.40

Spool welding wire: 33

Leaf spring sliders: 40

Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59

Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)

2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea

Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.

Accessories and flexplate: see link in update

Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75

Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50

25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75

Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23

Used and noisy fuel pump: 6.50

Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32

Used cast coat aluminum paint: 3.50 (advance price is $7 new, and the can was half empty)

Two half cans of ford engine blue $7

Shifters: 7.50 (bought 2 from a forum member for 15, only need one. So 7.50)

3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78

1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48

Throttle return springs and brackets: 5

3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6

battery hold down, oriellys 5.99

2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2

Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5

New challenge budget total: 1414.36

So, bonus update!

Monday night, we got a late start. Reason being that I had to meet a couple of forum members from Michigan over in Winston Salem. They brought me a 50s era craftsman horizontal mill that I got from AngryCorvair. Its an awesome piece of equipment that I have no idea how to even operate, let alone use. If anyone here has some good links to the basics of using one of these (like what the knobs do, what the operations are, you know, first day machinist class stuff) I would welcome the threadjack. I believe its made by atlas, and I KNOW I will give it a full restoration and return it to service. Anyway, im super stoked. This is my first real metal working tool other than grinders and sawzalls. Should open up so many more possibilities.

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215111_zpskolybec8.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215119_zpsvvjdexhz.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215129_zpsqzk7bviq.jpg.html][/URL]

So after we unloaded, we started working.

You will notice in the plumbing pictures that we used chunks of old heater hose that came with the car, and the 1/2 conduit clamps to secure to the frame rails. Also, you will notice one red, and one green metal line. There are 24 feet of steel line total in this car. In the budget was a 25 foot roll for 25.75. I bought that roll. I chose, however, to use two half rolls instead of the brand new roll. Rather use what I have on this car, and keep the brand new supply for next time. Also, there are no fuel lines in the trans tunnel, per NHRA rules, the regulator is mounted at the front of the engine (NHRA states that it cannot be within 6 inches of the firewall) and there is a total of 7 inches of rubber line in the whole system. (NHRA states no more than 12). Reason for NHRA speak is that the challenge rules states that the car must pass NHRA tech.

so.. Plumbing pictures. Fuel system is done up to the regulator. [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215159_zpswx0gqsc5.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_220402_zps6xzmoegk.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_220408_zpsnnqlrhec.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215228_zpsniaeoytx.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215217_zpsibqjqrxx.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_223407_zpstccvvsv4.jpg.html][/URL]

I worked on getting the worn out steering box out, and the new to us jeep grand Cherokee box in. I had found a few vague references to it being essentially a bolt in to the spirit chassis. I honestly didn't expect it to be. Surprise, it is!!! Same bolts, pitman arm fits, rag joint is the same, just hoses are different. But then again, im not surprised. 3.5 turns lock to lock, firm feel, and almost zero dead spot. Ive used the same box in many chevelles.

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215235_zps3ocpmbhr.jpg.html][/URL]

I also fitted a coolant overflow bottle that we dug out of the car. Judging by shape, I think this may be the only factory engine bay part other than the brake booster to remain with the car at this point. Anyone have ideas on how to un-yellow it?

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_215240_zpsppaianal.jpg.html][/URL]

Lastly, started making seat mounts. We had mocked up with chinks of 2x4 and plywood till we got the fit right. Then, taking highly accurate measurements with my yardstick, I transferred the measurements to metal. All stuff I had laying around, except for a couple of pieces of 1x1 all hole tube I got for a dollar a stick from my neighbor who was rebuilding a trailer. I sized them to pick up the factory seat mounts that had previously been welded up before I bought the car. Figure AMC knew what they were doing there, and that it was about the right spot after test fitting. The all hole metal is so that the seats can be somewhat adjustable fore and aft. After all, all the team members are different sizes and shapes. And also, adjustability is always nice when you are making it up as you go. It allowed us to fit the shifter, and I also used a few chunks of rollcage padding and my helmet to check cage clearance. All good here.

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_224103_zpsvcocpatm.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_224108_zpskwhbvdbk.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170228_223453_zpsrudcdl3y.jpg.html][/URL]

What brand/color was that tractor paint? It looks like it laid down pretty good in the pictures.

Also, "grinder tree"? This sounds important. I have 8 angle grinders, most of which live in a pile.

its concord regional airport parking lot gray. its a PPG industrial enamel that is available at local PPG stores. this one was a few shades too dark for the customer due tp tinting error, hence the reason we got it. normally, for mis-tints, the stores charge (according to my buddy) $10 if they hate you, $5 if they just don't like you, $1 if youre an occasional shiny happy person, and free if youre cool. your local store may differ.

Grinder tree is something that blackhurst made in the project binkey series to hold all the grinders. Its pretty neat.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

I googled the model number and found links to some documentation for both the Craftsman and Atlas machines, as well as a couple links to YouTube vids of the machines in action.

A good start

A YouTube result -- see related vids for moar!

Some info here

In reply to AngryCorvair:

You are the MAN.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

While I appreciate that comment, let's keep in mind that you build driveabeaters and I google. I'm just a boy in a man's world. ;-)

Come to the challenge and wheel one of them in anger. And teach me the ways of Google fu.

If all goes according to plan, ill have a truck class competitor as well.

Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200

Donor Lincoln town car: 410

Engine crossmember: 120

Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10

Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50

Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89

trans cooler: 2

Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot

Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)

2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05

Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.

6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65

Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .

Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10

Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)

Solid steel lowering blocks, with the holes drilled to offset the rear axle rearwards. $5

1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50

Mustang convertible mounts 22

Bending plate cost 25

Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90

Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65

2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14

Cage materials: 271.40

Spool welding wire: 33

Leaf spring sliders: 40

Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59

Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)

2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea

Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.

Accessories and flexplate: see link in update

Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75

Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50

25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75

Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23

Used and noisy fuel pump: 6.50

Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32

Used cast coat aluminum paint: 3.50 (advance price is $7 new, and the can was half empty)

Two half cans of ford engine blue $7

Shifters: 7.50 (bought 2 from a forum member for 15, only need one. So 7.50)

3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78

1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48

Throttle return springs and brackets: 5

3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6

battery hold down, oriellys 5.99

2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2

Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5

Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08

New challenge budget total: 1432.44

So, last couple of weeks have NOT gone according to plan. And, we haven't done so well at taking pictures.

But, battery is mounted, kill is mounted, main cables are run, melted wiring harness is deconstructed, starter solenoid mounted, fuel system finished, kickdown finished, suspension all but finished, we cut tubes out and remade them in the cage, crank pulley spacer made, jeep box swap finished except for hose, seat mounts made, etc. Busy work, but doesn't look like a lot. [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221116_zpsdhjyeh8m.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221120_zpsd4sdqj6i.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221127_zpsmazbvcbq.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221136_zpsojmge5jt.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221146_zpse04bn7i2.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221150_zps0adyzvqj.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221156_zpswtftrzfd.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221200_zpsg0sidxtp.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170310_221318_zpsgisadi3v.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170311_010333_zpsdvqi9fsu.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170311_010342_zpsvdgzcgxl.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/amc/20170311_114414_zpsyugptmzj.jpg.html][/URL]

I love this picture.

It says berking race car with a touch of early 80s AMC mixed in.