NO MORE TRANNIES. Part of the reason I'm spending an extra $150/month is storage for all my transmissions. And tires. And Audi crossmembers. And I still have those GSL-SE axles that I sold to someone and he was going to pick them up but Covid happened.
I don't like the new Racing Beat mufflers.
So here's the old one after some surgery:
Neat, it's just a 7x18 packed muffler. The inlet pipe is the real problem, but since all the packing was missing it wasn't as quiet as it used to be.
Looks like regular old steel wool, not stainless shavings.
Should be able to repack it, zip it back up, and be right as rain. Well, aside from having to completely rebuild the inlet, which is more weld than pipe right now.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
So what you're saying is just send it to you with no warning. Gotcha.
Knurled. said:Be nice if Photoberkit wasn't offline. Cannot log in, keep getting a flagrant system error. Will whine about it after fhe Challenge is over with.
Last time, at the Batcave...
Stepwear on the front end housing.
Thirty pages later.
let me know on your experience with chip i hear mixed things but for expensive machining products I expect a decent turn around time then.
In reply to fidelity101 (Forum Supporter) :
I drove up on Saturday to drop off, and spoke with him in person. Real cool guy. He does the refinishing in batches, kind of normal at any machine shop. At the place I used to work we would batch cleaning jobs because it takes a lot of energy to heat up 250 gallons of solution to near boiling, so I totally get that. He wouldn't be able to be as inexpensive as he is without cost saving measures like that.
Of course, he had a running 12A pullout he was willing to sell me. Damn timing.
Meanwhile. Just ordered 1152 cubic inches of packing material. Guesstimate says there is 500ci of free space in the muffler, but why not get too much?
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
yeah makes sense and that was details he told me when I was shopping around for services. Still torn on the next engine for the rally car but wanted to look at some options and with him so close some things are easier.
A lot of people just don't understand how a machine shop runs, nobody wants to run 5 of something. they want to do 500 of something in a row.
I have a shedload of 12A side housings and Mazda still makes (!) GSL-SE (well, J spec Super Injection) rotor housings, if you want to go that route.
barring that, for about the same cash outlay, I bought my 12A rotors from someone who had a bridge ported FD engine set for sale, for $1500. His road racing class has a restrictor and the engine (ported by a name shop, might have been Downing or Drummond) was too much for the restrictor. High overlap engines hate running under much vacuum.
Two downsides: The eyebrows are out to the coolant lands, so engine life depends on how good your silicone is because the coolant seal is missing two inches. And, it's set up for dry sump. The modifications should be undoable, but FD oil pumps are impossible to find used and not cheap new. It looks like an FC pump might bolt up, but there's that second inlet to worry about.
He also has an IDA throttlebody and FD intake.
Finally an answer to the question, "How much boost could a boost buggy blow if a boost buggy could blow boost".
I am not thrilled with how bright it is. But it is unavoidable. Everything on the car is network controlled, including the lighting. There's no spiderweb of interior lighting wires throughout the car, the net just sends a signal to the climate control or instrument cluster or door modules "Run at x percent lighting".
For reference, the dash lights are also on. I prefer them just lit enough to be legible. Helps night vision that way.
Of course, having bright-ass HID headlights destroys night vision too, but, well...
I have been sitting on this rack of coils for a long time. Never had enough round tuits to make the bracket, because what I wanted and what I felt like making never lined up with each other. I chose the coils based off their resistance, or inductance, or something. It was a long time ago. All three are hit by the MSD, leading are direct fire, trailing goes through the cap.
New coils, new wires, new air filter, replaced some spade terminals with Weatherpack. Oil was 2 quarts overfull already so that is getting drained out.
Road tuning today, after rewiring the TPS yesterday to fix a glitch. The VE table makes a lot more sense with the deadtime at 1.1ms.
Was doing some low throttle pulls from stop after the drive, to try to find a weird hiccup, decided to play with accel enrichment. Hey, there's an option to vary accel enrichment based off percentage of WOT, turned that on and suddenly throttle response is telepathic. But the engine is stumbling? Ah, noise is triggering the TPS. I alter the % of WOT curve to eliminate most of the noise, and go back in to the TPSdot graph to see the noise and where I need to put the low end cutoff...
And then one of those moments happened, like Wile E Coyote's relationship with gravity.
I remembered the fans were off. I looked down and the mechanical gauge was at 240F, about 50 past acceptable and 30 past "oh berk". It was at that moment that the boiling-over radiator blew the lid off of the reservoir, and dumped who knows how much Toyota Pink all over the engine bay and ground, steam roiling from under the hood to highlight my ignorance.
One of these days I will have a charging system beefy enough that the fans can run on automatic.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Ever considered a temp switch to control your ignition or maybe fuel pump?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Why? That would be horrible! What if the car was overheating but I was in traffic, or was in the middle of a run? Or the switch failed?
There is no possible outcome of running hot that could justify losing mobility. Even all of the OE protection schemes are geared towards keeping you mobile.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I was thinking more of a rev limiter type thing. For example the 3rd gen Q45 goes into cylinder deactivation when overheated. Kinda embarrassing when you can’t go over 15 mph at the Challenge drag strip but it allowed me to keep going.
I think beefing up the charging system so you can run temp controlled fans is the ticket.
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
Hey this is not the time or place for logical thinking.
Stampie (FS) said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I was thinking more of a rev limiter type thing. For example the 3rd gen Q45 goes into cylinder deactivation when overheated. Kinda embarrassing when you can’t go over 15 mph at the Challenge drag strip but it allowed me to keep going.
Better to overheat and deal with it afterwards than have a crappy time. Besides, limiting speed would make it worse, not better.
Cylinder deactivation, besides not being a function available in Megasquirt, would also kill a rotary that requires two stroke oil in the fuel to survive. And it would also result in reduced power.
Priority #1 is stay mobile long enough to get home, Priority #2 is to be fast while doing it. In competition #2 overrides #1. Engines can be rebuilt, runs don't get do-overs.
Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) said:I think beefing up the charging system so you can run temp controlled fans is the ticket.
That would be the ideal thing, of course. I think the only way to really do that would be dual alternators, since beefy 140-200 amp units tend to have less output at idle, for the same case size.
That or go with an electric water pump so that I don't need a 3" crank pulley, so the alternator can work at low engine speeds, but I really don't trust aftermarket units, and flow/pressure specs for OE units is hard to come by.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Well obviously the root problem is you aren't fast enough to get more air flow to the radiator. JK but even on the Q45 with no fans once it got over 20mph the air flow was enough.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Priority #1 is stay mobile long enough to get home, Priority #2 is to be fast while doing it. In competition #2 overrides #1. Engines can be rebuilt, runs don't get do-overs.
Stampie (FS) said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Well obviously the root problem is you aren't fast enough to get more air flow to the radiator. JK but even on the Q45 with no fans once it got over 20mph the air flow was enough.
That's the main issue. I can't run the fans and the headlights or blower motor at the same time, so if i get stuck in a late night or rainy weather traffic jam, I have to juggle running hot vs. driving with lights off. Same for if it is raining and I need the HVAC to blow on the windshield so I can see.
I also use the fans to control idle speed. Kicking them on drops the idle down about 300-400rpm, making it more pleasant in city traffic.
wae said:Pete. (l33t FS) said:Priority #1 is stay mobile long enough to get home, Priority #2 is to be fast while doing it. In competition #2 overrides #1. Engines can be rebuilt, runs don't get do-overs.
...an actual Ohio plate from about 14-15 years ago. Had a customer with it. We used to joke that it said "maximum fat".
There was a Deadpool movie review (might have been the CinemaWins video) where they commented that it summed up Mr. Pool perfectly: Complete slacker almost all the time, except when it was time to switch it on, and then it was maximum effort.
Look what I found: a 46mm dual throttle assembly, on 90mm centers like a DCOE.
Hiding in a 1MZ engined Avalon.
It's actually two throttle bodies with a balance adjuster between the two, like between a pair of Webers. Neat.
Today's tally.
402 miles (26.5mpg average)
Two 80-minute Kleptones tracks, and one Ursula 1000, and one really awesome remix(*), on repeat
Two burritos, one breakfast and one not
Two burger sandwich things from Speedway
Two cans Red Bull
Two cans V8 Energy Drink, Pomegranate/Blueberry
24 fl.oz. decaf coffee
Six (6) side housings, rebuilt, picked up from Chip's in sunny Warren, Michigan
One 20 cubic foot cylinder of 75/25 from Tractor Supply, because zero welding shops are open when I am not at work
One trans jack, slightly used
(*)
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