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Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/16/20 10:13 a.m.
SVreX said:

I really want to say red is completely overdone, but...

 

red.

It's like a Ferrari. Red is overdone, but you still get yours in red.

I am assuming that all cars that are maintained in this garage will be brass era. 

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
3/16/20 10:26 a.m.
Toyman01 said:
gearheadmb said:

In reply to bluej :

Unfortunately without removing the loft their is no way to make a lift happen. So I will have to continue living without one. C'est la vie.

Open up the second floor window to a reasonable size, add doors, and put in a barn hoist. Building one strong enough to lift a a couple of hundred pounds would be pretty easy.

Oh this kind of lift. I thought we were talking about a two post car lift. I had thought about making a door in the loft floor and a block and tackle to lift things up there. I don't know how well that would work because there is only about 2 feet between the joist beams, so it wont make a very big hole. This is a neat idea. The big door would help with light and ventilation also. I may have to do something like this.

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) PowerDork
3/16/20 10:38 a.m.

Paint it dark green and white trim. Red IS overdone.

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
3/16/20 10:40 a.m.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

I like that, but that wasn't one of the choices. cheeky

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
3/16/20 10:42 a.m.

Also, that particular barn has so much of the "barn shape" that red just works. 
 

Plus, since it's a distance from the main house, it will have the great "barn in the distance" look.

I really want to say something else...

 

...red. 

bluej
bluej GRM+ Memberand UberDork
3/16/20 11:34 a.m.

In reply to gearheadmb :

I did mean auto lift. Lots of mid rise lift options out there when you get to it.

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
3/16/20 11:41 a.m.
SVreX said:

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

I like that, but that wasn't one of the choices. cheeky

I'm fully open to other options, but honestly I'm having a hard time picturing anything besides white or red.

BoostedBrandon
BoostedBrandon SuperDork
3/16/20 11:46 a.m.

White.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/16/20 2:00 p.m.

preach
preach New Reader
3/16/20 8:48 p.m.

My great grandfather immigrated from Cuba and his first job was painting signs on barns.

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
6/27/20 11:21 a.m.

There has been a bit of a hold up in the barn project. Lots of trying to work with the current owners, inability to get paper work done because the corona virus shutting down places, all of that. So I dont own it yet. But I did go buy a heat source. Big ole buck stove.

If anybody has 8" stovepipe they want to get rid of in the western half of ohio I'd be interested. 

I'm making plans for my electrical supply to the building. My plan is to put a 100a 220v breaker in the house breaker box and trench over to the barn with 2 gauge wire in plastic conduit and put a 100a breaker box in the barn to feed everything. Does that all sound appropriate? How deep do I need to bury it? Thanks

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/27/20 11:55 a.m.

In reply to gearheadmb :

NEC Article 300 specifies a minimum of 18" to the top of the conduit. It's generally good practice to bury Warning Tape about 12" above the conduit during the covering process.  Especially if you or a next owner may do some digging between the structures in the future.  I think it's actually required, but I'm not seeing it in my NEC Handbook at the moment.

#2 might be on the thin side depending on how long the run from the house is. 

frenchyd
frenchyd PowerDork
6/27/20 12:24 p.m.
gearheadmb said:

There has been a bit of a hold up in the barn project. Lots of trying to work with the current owners, inability to get paper work done because the corona virus shutting down places, all of that. So I dont own it yet. But I did go buy a heat source. Big ole buck stove.

If anybody has 8" stovepipe they want to get rid of in the western half of ohio I'd be interested. 

I'm making plans for my electrical supply to the building. My plan is to put a 100a 220v breaker in the house breaker box and trench over to the barn with 2 gauge wire in plastic conduit and put a 100a breaker box in the barn to feed everything. Does that all sound appropriate? How deep do I need to bury it? Thanks

My fathers house on Balsam Lake Wisconsin was right next to a retired railroad engineer.  He got an old steam powered generator and stuck it in his barn.   From the generator he piped steam underneath the car or truck as he drove it in to wash off the road salt.  But not only did he have 110 volt but also 220 single phase and 220!3 phase.  The cylinder had like a 2 foot stroke and it spun that big flywheel at a really slow speed 

I realize old steam engines aren't around  but you can probably buy a used diesel generator cheaper than you can buy and trench that much power 

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
7/1/20 9:11 p.m.

In reply to frenchyd :

Its 110 feet from the house to the barn, I think I'll go ahead and trench it.

I have a 100 amp breaker in my main panel feeding an underground line to the shop's 100 amp panel.  Since the shop has all LED lighting, and an occasional use of a A/C on a 20 amp breaker, the most power i ever use is when i turn on the 220 MIG.

Do the underground in conduit and put a warning tape above.  Looking at charts 1 guage should do you fine.

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
8/29/20 8:32 a.m.

It has taken a long time, but after months (years really)  of negotiating, stalling, avoidance and pandemic delays we finally sat down across the table from our neighbors, signed the papers, handed over checks, and got barns and property bought. Now the work starts.

chandler
chandler PowerDork
8/29/20 8:56 a.m.

Nice

bluej (Forum Supporter)
bluej (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UberDork
8/29/20 9:07 a.m.

Saweet! Congrats!

Appleseed
Appleseed MegaDork
8/29/20 9:41 a.m.

Excellent.

frenchyd
frenchyd PowerDork
8/29/20 9:46 a.m.

In reply to gearheadmb :

Find a local sawmill and  the beams etc you buy will match the originals and be less expensive than buying 2x4s etc at lumberyards or Big box stores. Places  like that don't Advertise  or are on line.  It's word of mouth.  A good way to meet neighbors  is ask around about local sawmills  but educate yourself a little. there are places that have wood prices  Ask,  I'll dig up some of them for you   Drive around and look for wood lots with mature trees.  Go up to the nearest farmer and ask if he knows of a good local sawmill. 

If you run into a dead end call Wood mizer check in with them. Part of their sales pitch is the keep track of everyone who buys one of their sawmills.  Winter is the best time to go searching for deals on wood  

The reason wood is cheaper at a smallish local sawmill is because there are 12-15 middlemen between the sawmill and the lumberyard. 
There is the consolidator. He puts together odd lots of wood enough so it makes economic sense to bring in a semi truck. The next middle Man is the wood dryer  he runs a kiln to bring the moisture down below the point mold will form. Certain woods are hypersensitive like Maple 

Then there often is an edger.  Sometimes combined with a surfacer Occasionally  they are separate. 
Another middle man is the grader.  Some places sell all their wood as Mill run. Boards just as they come off the log. .  
the Grader assigns grades like FAS or #2 rough etc etc. 

the next middle man is the Re consolidators   putting certain sizes and grades together to form what are called bunkers. A lot of hand sorting and carting pieces involved.  Plus odd lots like Ironwood  or Boxelder. 
 

He's also on the look out for specialty woods like fish eye or fiddleback. burls or tiger stripe. 
That's where some real money can be made. 
Sawmills look for straight grain free of knots wood because that sells for high prices.  Wood with a lot of "character" like knots wavy grain  etc down grade the wood and they have to sell it cheaper and cheaper.  •••••••Except  if it's the right sort of character. 
For example Maple Fiddleback  of the right sort can sell for between $450- $1500 for enough wood to make a violin from ( that's about 1&1/2 board foot.).  18"x12" x1 inch thick 

I Have 6 boards of solid burl 1 inch thick 22 inches wide and 10 feet long  that I was offered $70,000 for. 
  
etc etc etc. 

Anyway each place has shipping, loading and unloading, handling, storage, sales, equipment etc etc etc. so those middle men are legitimate.  But each adds to the final cost when you go to the lumberyard or big box store. 
 

The  cheapest wood is mill run  by the bunker ( 500-600 bd ft )  direct from the sawmill. Certain woods are in over abundance . Right now Ash is one of those because of the emerald ash borer.  Also there is still plenty of Elm from Dutch elm disease. 
When  you buy that wood   Mill run  you'll expect 15-20% waste  but the price is so cheap you don't care. I can buy stuff like that cheaper than sheetrock  plus the offcuts  make little things,  bird houses, or cute boxes etc. 

Sometimes they will mix odd wood like  Iron wood, Hackberry, Boxelder, or whatever they only have one or two trees a year of .  That's fun. 
remember no two trees are exactly alike in a wood lot that hasn't been regularly harvested  


 

GIRTHQUAKE
GIRTHQUAKE Dork
8/29/20 3:21 p.m.

Man, I really wanted to find a barn for my first house. I actually DID find one, but that was how I learned the hard way that Banks rarely loan money on huge renovations on things that were never originally meant to be domiciles. Just no fun.

I vote to keep it looking weathered like a sleeper barn. Keep the shop hidden!

hobiercr (FS)
hobiercr (FS) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
8/29/20 3:47 p.m.

When we were up in the PA mountains we saw a sleeper barn. It looked older and rough on the outside, but through the open door, it was modern, finished, well lit, and on a full slab. I really like the sleeper style.

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
8/29/20 6:57 p.m.

In reply to frenchyd :

Actually my barn came with a parts barn.berkeleyers huge too. Today I started getting that lean to on the RH side of the pic ready for tear off. It has the roof, rafters, and beams I need to fix the little barn.

gearheadmb
gearheadmb SuperDork
8/29/20 7:08 p.m.

Another angle of the parts barn. Race beretta for scale. It's big, and would be amazing. Unfortunately the former owners neglected it. The roof peeled back on 6 of the 8 corners, leaked, and rotted the corner posts out. It is beyond repair. It makes me sad. There are hand hewn 8x8 posts and beams 30 feet and longer in this thing. In it's time it would have been beautiful. Butter under the siding it's just shot from owners who didn't care enough to keep the water out.

frenchyd
frenchyd PowerDork
8/29/20 7:09 p.m.
GIRTHQUAKE said:

Man, I really wanted to find a barn for my first house. I actually DID find one, but that was how I learned the hard way that Banks rarely loan money on huge renovations on things that were never originally meant to be domiciles. Just no fun.

I vote to keep it looking weathered like a sleeper barn. Keep the shop hidden!

There is a way around banks stodgy rules. 

I wanted to build a house my way  without all the banks BS.  What I did is use my credit cards. I got interest free ones and loaded them up with the timbers, tools and etc I wanted. Then  I got a home equity loan to pay off  the credit cards.  
I repeated that to give myself working capitol  to keep building my way. Since I paid off the credit cards quickly that increased my credit score and more interest free credit cards showed up in the mail. 
Every appraisal showed improvements so the value of my house kept going up.  Increase in value gave me equity to pay off credit cards and repeat. 

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