Got a couple updates for you all, it doesn't feel like much, but it is progress.
Here, I present to you the fully stripped down, bare minimum (then take some away from that) engine harness.
I do need to add the wideband O2 into the mix, and possibly some wires for the alternator, but I have to do a little more research first.
I will plug everything in and do a startup to make sure everything works soon, then I will wrap the harness. I am thinking I am going to use F4 tape that I found recommended elsewhere on the Forum. It is a more expensive than electrical tape, but turns out really nice. I have one roll and did a test wrap on some other wire.
In the process of putting copper lugs on the main power wires I might have slightly damaged my workbench.... Oops.
And the new switch panel is almost done.
Switches left to right, push start, keyed cut-off switch, fuel pump, fan.
The hole for the cut-off switch isn't big enough to mount yet, I am going to pickup some step bits on my way home tonight.
The toggles for the fuel and fan switches are uneven because I drilled them too fast. :/ Oh well, I guess I'll make another switch panel eventually.
I also have the back marked out for space for 4 more toggles for future needs.
I keep having to try and force myself to make it good enough for now, and to get it running again instead of exactly perfect. I can go back later and fine tune just how I want everything positioned, and stuff like that, but if I want to be able to bring it to Carlisle on May 18-20 I gotta keep moving.
I also did a compression test to see if it's even worth messing with this engine block anymore or if I should swap in my spare.
Results:
Cyl #1: 150psi
Cyl #2: 130psi
Cyl #3: 150psi
Cyl #4: 150psi
This test was done engine cold, throttle wide open. Seems close enough that the block is probably ok.
Also notable, the spark plugs were VERY oily. Have to look into what that means in this case. I know its runs a lot of crankcase pressure in this engine, so maybe oil was getting past the piston rings?
AWSX1686 said:
...maybe oil was getting past the piston rings?
Almost certainly. I seem to recall that being an issue with this engine since the 2006 season. Keeping the oil in that block was... problematic. I recall drip cloths under the pan & pushing the car in the staging lanes to avoid oil drippage, now that you mention it.
Greg Smith said:
AWSX1686 said:
...maybe oil was getting past the piston rings?
Almost certainly. I seem to recall that being an issue with this engine since the 2006 season. Keeping the oil in that block was... problematic. I recall drip cloths under the pan & pushing the car in the staging lanes to avoid oil drippage, now that you mention it.
Hmm, perhaps I should swap engines.... I'l finish the wiring first.
The plus is the other engine supposedly already has a cam, and definitely has an adjustable cam pulley, bigger injectors, and an upgraded fuel pressure regulator. The downside is, I haven't actually heard it run, so I could put it in and it could have it's own issues. Fortunately, I don't think R&R'ing the engine would be very difficult in this case.
In reply to AWSX1686 :
How hard to hook up a starter motor to the other engine outside of the car and get compression numbers?
Current one is probably 'good enough' for Carlisle.
Greg Smith said:
In reply to AWSX1686 :
How hard to hook up a starter motor to the other engine outside of the car and get compression numbers?
Grab the trans that goes with, bolt it up, grab the spare starter, grab power. Not too hard.
AWSX1686 said:
Picked up this fuel cell last night for $73. 5 gal, aluminum. No bladder, has one piece of foam in it. (Not sure how much good one piece is going to do.)
The current fuel cell/tank is plastic and is slightly questionable. If budget permits I hope to replace it with this.
Late to the party here - but if that foam is, ahem, "vintage" it will definitely have an effect as it sends little pieces of foam into your fuel system and clogs up the filter. Been there, done that.
Keith Tanner said:
AWSX1686 said:
Picked up this fuel cell last night for $73. 5 gal, aluminum. No bladder, has one piece of foam in it. (Not sure how much good one piece is going to do.)
The current fuel cell/tank is plastic and is slightly questionable. If budget permits I hope to replace it with this.
Late to the party here - but if that foam is, ahem, "vintage" it will definitely have an effect as it sends little pieces of foam into your fuel system and clogs up the filter. Been there, done that.
I'll have to get a picture of it. I am fairly sure the guy said he's never used the fuel cell at all, so I don't think it's ever even seen fuel. That said, it's such a little piece of foam, I doubt it would actually add any benefit that the fuel cell foam is supposed to.
I am thinking about chopping a hole in the top of this thing to do a drop in fuel pump setup. Anyone have input on that?
I'd pull that foam out for sure then. It does have a lifespan.
Those little sumps work reasonably well if you orient them properly. The tank is relatively tall instead of wide which will help minimize slosh. I'd just work with what you have until it proves to be a problem.
Keith Tanner said:
I'd pull that foam out for sure then. It does have a lifespan.
Those little sumps work reasonably well if you orient them properly. The tank is relatively tall instead of wide which will help minimize slosh. I'd just work with what you have until it proves to be a problem.
The reasoning for converting it to use a drop in / in tank fuel pump is because that's what I have available, otherwise I either have to get an inline pump (budget hit) or leave the current plastic fuel cell in. For now I'm just leaving the current cell in, this is lower on the list of priorities for now.
Personally, I am in favor of pulling the engine since you have a spare. It did not run right since Bryan over heated it. 130 seems low, I think it needs oil rings, but test the spare engine first. Disconnect the electronic ignition coil first to be sure it is not fried during the test. Looking forward to seeing it at Carlisle!!!
Kinda hard to see, but I have the switch panel mostly finished up. I didn't realise how big the keyed kill switch was, so to make room I moved the toggle switches over one spot (if you remember I had left 4 more spots marked out for future switches). So now they are even, I'll cover the hole with a sticker or something, and I have room for two more toggles with the current layout.
I also finalized a couple wired and plugged everything in and got the computer talking to the ECU. Seems like everything is working so far, though my initial attempt at a first start did not work. Will re-look over everything tonight and see what I missed.
Pic with the laptop in the car just for fun.
Still haven't been able to get it started. Kinda frustrating. I got crank, I seem to have spark (tester inline with a plug wire indicates so), and I seem to have fuel (fuel pump on it's own switch, maintains pressure, injectors appear to inject.).
Will double and triple check the timing tomorrow.
It's alive!
More info to come, but it starts up and runs on the standalone!
Video from Saturday night, first startup on the PiMP Standalone ECU:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mqreoRYJQ9e9Ls1z8
I'll have to get a picture of the culprit, but basically Saturday evening when something like this:
Future little brother-in-law (LBIL?) comes over to help out a little.
We know we need fuel, air, and spark.
Nothing restricting air.
Cranked, pulled a spark plug, it was wet with fuel. Got fuel.
Spark tester. No spark.
Spark plug grounded to the block. No spark.
Check all connectors, everything looks good, but still no spark.
Pull engine harness. (I think 6 whole connectors at this point, easy peasy.)
Compare to wiring diagram to double check everything. Everything looks good.
LBIL notices that the pins in the plastic connector going to the coil are loose.
Put harness back on the engine, notice that when I plug in coil connector, the plastic connector goes down and locks in, but the wires got pushed up. Well then.
Push wires down on to make good contact at the coil.
Car fires right up.
So now I'm wondering if that's part of the issue I was having at the challenge, that the coild has a good enough connection to run, but once it really got under load, the connection was not good enough. I guess I'll find out soon once I hook some other pieces up and test.
Next steps:
Wire-up/Install Wideband O2 Sensor
Wire Alternator
Start tuning
Fingers crossed that is the issue!!! You are way ahead of me, I have 4 days with my wife out of town starting tomorrow, so will take maximum advantage of it and get my body ready to mount back on the frame, then I can jump into the wiring and engine management stuff. Keep the updates going!
In reply to dherr :
Awesome, looking forward to your progress as well. Hoping to have them side by side for Carlisle! Less than 3 weeks away....
Anyone able to identify this alternator? Seems like a Ford 3G, but there's no single wire stator plug, and apparently the ribs on the front are incorrect for a 3G.
