Mine. I'm cleaning out stuff I don't drive enough. I consider this a track car, not really suitable for street, though I have put about 40 street miles on it. It's definitely geared towards drag and land speed racing than other uses, but is fun to autocross in a point and shoot kind of way. Please do not expect a mint car. This Is a racecar that has about a 3/10 paint job that I did outside at night, have washed with scotch brite sponges, and it has battle scars. It photographs well because white.
Started life as a 1975 280Z. Andrew Nelson bought it out of a bush in mid 00's and turned it into a land speed racing car. It had the rotten floors replaced with sheetmetal ones, rotten framerails replaced with 2x2 tube, front structure around the radiator replaced with tubes, 8 point roll bar, parachute mount, battery tray below the right rear floor. He then sold it to a guy in ohio who used to be a forum regulator who used it in the 2010 challenge and let it sit. I purchased in 2015 and it was my 2015-17 challenge car.
body is decent. It has had patches welded in a few spots on rockers. There are a few pinholes on top of rocker panels with door open, inner door bottoms have some as well, and tail panel behind where bumper would be has some also but nothing alarming. Underside of cowl is rusted through, but I made panels to fill the cowl vents and called it a day, because racecar. There are scrapes from cones and trailering. It has stains from magnets, and is definitely a candidate to get scuffed and sprayed to be "racecar pretty" again. Fiberglass front fenders and hood, front urethane air dam, cheap flares. I have removed the homemade spoiler and will include a vintage 3 piece BRE style one.
engine is a 5.3 from a 2007 chevy van. Miles unknown but it has the telltale overheat warning sticker thing that reman and crate motor sellers use to deny warranty claims so it was not original to the van. Bores are stock diameter with gorgeous crosshatch. 799 heads(same as 243 ls6 heads) with new ls6 valve springs. New ls6 cam purchased new from GM. LS1 intake. F body manifolds, modified mac Y pipe, single flowmaster with rocker panel exit. Holley 302-1 oil pan. 4L65E trans from the same van with a new B&M 3500 stall torque converter. Custom driveshaft made by henderson driveline in cleveland.
aluminum radiator with camaro electric fan
10 gallon aluminum fuel cell in NHRA approved enclosure with rollover protection and protected sump. Inline walbro 255, aluminum fuel filter, and adjustable fpr mounted under rear of car. Aluminum solid line run to front, transitioning to braided to the fuel rail.
Nitrous express mainline nitrous system.
15x8 reverse offset American racing 80's wheels with sm7 tires, plus a pair of steelies with tubed m&h racemaster 24" drag slicks and a full set of 14x5.5 western turbine wheels - 2 of which have cheap new westlake tires for narrow frontrunners if you so choose.
interior is a sheetmetal dash with a couple gauges. I use a cheap dongle and $40 android tablet with torque app(not included) as a dash. Aluminum door panels, kirkey seats, switch panel, nothing else. No wipers, no hvac, no fancy stuff. Has head/taillights, brake lights, rear turn signals. Harness expired so will need replaced to be legal for drag or lsr.
rear is welded factory diff. Geometry changed on moustache bar to give optimal halfshaft angle for launching. Currently has brute force old stock u joints in shafts, and it has safety loops for driveshaft and halfshafts. Factory front brakes(have the s31 rotor/hilux caliper big vented brake upgrade on shelf that is included) and thunderbird turbo coupe rears with 1/2" studs. Rear bolt circle is 4.25" ford pattern but is simple to change by installing studs in factory holes in hubs and drilling rotors. All wheels with car are dual pattern or unilug so never an issue for me.
because challenge, I never made a clean pass with this car. Went 12.1@122.8 with stock torque converter in 2016(on a 2.1 60'). In 2017 with a clearance shelf 3k stall converter I got down to 1.7 60' but track was oiled and I lifted and burned a valve with the nitrous and ran 12.5. Next pass was a 12.0@114 but it got slower as the valve got worse. After retirement from challenge duty, I installed the $500+ B&M converter and did the heads/cam in search of 10's, but have not made it to the track since. The pcm should be tuned better to the heads and cam, but I haven't had time. When it's warm out it runs great, when it's cold out it's a little choppy until engine temp comes up.
I will sell this car on a bill of sale. There was no paperwork when I got it, but it is/was never a sketchy history car. VIN is gone from original dash being gone for years, but is still stamped on firewall so I assume in a state cooler than Ohio one could use that to get a bonded title, or go through VT for a registration. I was given title to a deceased 72 240Z when I bought the car and registered that title for historical tags so I could look somewhat legit driving it around the block for testing. If you wish, i would sign and notarize that title and include it with sale as a historical document, with you accepting the title does not match the car nor do I condone using it as such.
I have to install the new fuel pump as soon as the weather warms up, otherwise it should be ready to go to a new home. I suggest going over things before you start chasing numbers, but with new seatbelt the car is legal to 10.0 and has passed tech at NHRA events without complaint.
I'm having a hard time pricing this as S30's are all over the map in all conditions. This is not a $20K car nor is it a $3k car. I've had several friends and grm brothers suggest anywhere from 6-10k. For GRM i think I'll start at $7000 OBO.
