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volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/5/17 10:28 a.m.

Hmmmm...can you spot the difference?

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/5/17 11:02 a.m.

Missing trim below greenhouse on passenger side?

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/5/17 11:15 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair:

Nope, try again! Hint: look lower.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/5/17 3:54 p.m.

Poor paint match?

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
6/5/17 4:18 p.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse:

Sorry, all I see is 100% pure awesome.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/5/17 4:39 p.m.
Pete Gossett wrote: In reply to volvoclearinghouse: Sorry, all I see is 100% pure awesome.

It really is a difficult question.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/6/17 6:21 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair:

Besides that. OK, another hint: something is a different size on one side.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UltimaDork
6/6/17 6:46 a.m.

It looks like it's sitting higher on the drivers side rear. Or the quarter is different.

Sine_Qua_Non
Sine_Qua_Non Dork
6/6/17 6:46 a.m.

Different wheel or tire size on the front?

stu67tiger
stu67tiger Reader
6/6/17 6:49 a.m.

The rear bumper? Is it just the lighting or are the wrap around ends different?

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/6/17 7:52 a.m.
Sine_Qua_Non wrote: Different wheel or tire size on the front?
Dusterbd13 wrote: It looks like it's sitting higher on the drivers side rear. Or the quarter is different.

You guys got pretty close. I'll give it to you.

The difference in the pictures I sent was the rear tires- 3 of the tires are 205/65R15, but one back one (passenger side) is 205/70R15. The stock tire was a 185R15 (about 185/80R15) but I can only find one supplier- Vrendestein- and they're about $180 each, installed. A 205/70R15 tire, installed, would be about $100 each, and the same rolling diameter, just about 3/4" wider. So I'd save about $300 by going with the 205/70R15s all around. I need to check and make sure there's enough suspension clearance all around, of course.

There's no 195/75R15 made, or that would be a good option, too.

The tires on there now are pretty dry-rotted, so they all need to be replaced, regardless. With wire wheels, tubes are needed as well.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/6/17 8:12 a.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse:

Oh, I thought that was too obvious to mention. ;-)

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/8/17 6:45 a.m.

The new clutch hose came last night. Here it is installed. For reference, this is the top of the engine, between those lovely DOHC aluminum valve covers, up against the firewall.

Working on this Jag is a bit like playing a game of automotive "never have I ever". In this case, never have I ever had to use a crow's foot to change a hydraulic line.

And then you drink. Because Jaguar.

Here we have the slave cylinder. Note the shiny, new-looking return spring. That was me. The old spring (which may or may not have been OEM, though I suspect not) was larger in diameter and rubbed against the slave cylinder. This spring happened to be rattling around in my Tote of Springs and was about 1/8" smaller in diameter, with a similar rate.

This is the brake/ clutch hydraulic setup. It's very strange. The master cylinders are mounted upward at about a 45 degree angle, and the reservoirs are those two plastic tanks, connected to the masters via rubber tube. I replaced all the rubber tubes and hose clamps, and cleaned out the reservoirs, and flushed the lines.

And this is some idiot attempting to redneck pressure bleed the clutch.

The clutch works, now, though we'll have to wait to take a drive to verify if it's fixed thoroughly. It also seems like the clutch picks up very high in it's stroke. It may need to be adjusted- the slave cylinder has a threaded eye on the end that looks to be adjustable. That should be done prior to any test driving.

Finally- I got my insurance card, finally (sidebar: my normal car insurance can get me an insurance card the same day I call in to add the vehicle, but my collector policy took nearly a week to add the car. Why is that??) and went to the local Tag and Title place. They processed the paperwork, but apparently Maryland now has "special" Historic tags for cars older than 50 years old (sidebar: Holy carp, this Jag's old!!) and they didn't have any on hand, so I'd have to come back Friday and get them.

Huh. Google says it's so:

Apexcarver
Apexcarver PowerDork
6/8/17 7:50 a.m.

Hopefully going through the MVA stuff the same way with my Bugeye later this year.

Seems to be a british car thing, bodging in "good enough" springs and such in place. Even some stuff you order that says its for the car isnt quite right.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/12/17 7:34 a.m.

If you look at the second picture in the post just above Apexcarver's comment, you'll see the slave cylinder actuates a rod connected to a threaded eyelet with a pin connecting it to the clutch fork. After changing the clutch flex hose, the clutch still took up very high in the pedal stroke, so I decided to adjust this rod/eyelet to have the clutch engage sooner.

After removing the fasteners that fix the slave cylinder to the transmission housing, I found that the pin going through the eyelet was seized in place. The slave cylinder pulled right off of the rod, though, and a generous application of PBlaster and some repetitive spinning of the eyelet around the pin got things freed up.

A peek inside the slave cylinder was not encouraging. Rust. Crud. Generalized ickiness. A thorough dismantling of the slave cylinder reveled it needed a complete rebuild. It was amazing that it even worked at all- the rubber packing cup was about worn through.

I did not have a rebuild kit for a Jaguar clutch cylinder on hand, however I did have a rebuild kit for a Volvo 122 Girling slave cylinder on hand, and, as it turns out, they both have a 7/8" bore. The 2 stone drill hone made the insides of the cylinder nice and shiny, I cleaned up all the other parts, installed the fresh (Volvo) rubber packing cup, put it all back together and installed it back onto the car.

The clutch works (I can hear it moving as the pedal is cycled) but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet- busy weekend with company and such. Plus, the plates should be ready today.

Will update.

maj75
maj75 Reader
6/12/17 7:46 a.m.

I'll just leave this here, in case somebody is inspired by your build;)

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/6137092428.html

wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy Dork
6/12/17 8:29 a.m.

I just visited family in Md. The staggering array of license plates and emission testing requirements, or lack thereof seem like a great reason to move there.

My cousin's mid 90's BMW, had what? vintage plates. He said with those, you got out of emission testing, and his car seemed to have no exhaust.

His Land cruiser has "Hot Rod" plates, and he explained this also meant no emissions, but the vehicle had to be modified-can do!

You have 50+ year old plates that I'm sure, also have no emissions.

Pretty neat.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/12/17 9:15 a.m.

In reply to wheelsmithy:

Yeah, in Maryland, anything older than 20 years old can be registered with a "Historic" plate, which means no emissions and no inspection. It does stipulate on the form that the vehicle cannot be used "for regular transportation" but in my experience this is generally disregarded and not enforced. I am now seeing early Honda CRVs and Maximas and such with "Historic" tags. The local craigslist is littered with "Historic" cars for sale, that don't need to be inspected.

"Street Rod" does require modifications and I've never understood it or bothered, as it seemed like it was easier to simply register "Historic". Street Rod also has to be 25 years or older.

I'm not sure why the "50-year Historic" tags came about, it's apparently a new thing. Possibly it was guys with older cars who wanted to separate themselves from the newer stuff also running "Historic" tags. I also saw that these older tags may not require a front plate, which is nice since the Jag has no front plate holder. All other MD tags require front and rear plates.

There's also Historic tags for trucks and RVs over 10,000 GVWR, although those have to be at least 25 years old.

All Historic/ Street Rod tags are eligible to run "Vintage" tags, which must be year of manufacture tags (ie, a '68 Camaro with 1968 Maryland Plates). The MVA-issued plates must be kept in the vehicle, presumably for if you get pulled over.

Historic/ Street Rod tags can also be "personalized", which I think is new, too. Perhaps I should see if "Shaguar" is available?

For everything else, there's a one-time inspection (which they're pretty anal about) at purchase followed by a bi-annual emissions check. Trailers here also have to be inspected, and registration is a bit $$$- which is why you see a lot of "Maine" trailer tags running around.

The Maryland Historic/ Street Rod Application Form

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/12/17 9:50 a.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse:

In 1993 I did the "Vintage" registration on my '66 Cutlass ragtop. First weekend with the '66 plate on the car, I get followed across the Bay Bridge by a statey and pulled over for expired tags. I couldn't believe he had a straight face when he asked me if I knew my tags were expired. Really, Officer Cockbag, I did not know that We are not currently living in 1966. He was a total douche, even after I patiently explained the Vintage process (which he claimed to know nothing about) and showed him the standard plate with its current sticker and card. His partner was an older guy who said the younger one still had a lot to learn, but did nothing to dissuade him from insisting that I put the current plate on the car, as "There's no way you're going to make it all the way to Ocean City without being pulled over again." So berkeley him, 24 years later. And again 24 years from now.

wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy Dork
6/12/17 3:51 p.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse:

Fascinating. Here in TN, it appears you can register a side by side for the street, but you have to wear helmets, and no interstate usage "like a scooter". Who knew?

Still loving the Jag. The paint match looks proper, and all these other fixes are bringing it right along. It will be awesome to tool around in, once you have it sorted.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/13/17 6:16 a.m.

In reply to wheelsmithy:

Thanks.

Picked up the plate for it yesterday...yes, I did say "plate", as in singular. One plate, for the back. Huzzah, we're street legal! I celebrated by making a run up the road and back, another 4 miles or so. Gradually gaining confidence in the machine, the clutch needed some more adjustment but now grabs well and feels good. OVERDRIVE clicked in without hesitation this time. The throttle still gave some hesitation- the carburetors, I suspect, still need some tuning. I'm used to SUs from tinkering on my Volvos, but these Jag SUs have some differences I need to study up on.

Handling is still a bit twitchy off-center. I know the tires need replacing, but first I'll check the alignment- it feels "toe out" to my experience.

With the engine running, I checked the battery- 12.2V. I checked the generator- nothing. Hopefully it just forgot how to be a generator, from sitting disconnected for so long, and a polarization will bring it back to life. Now I just need to remember how to do that- polarizing a generator is one of those things I do just often enough to have forgotten how to do it the next time I need to.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/14/17 6:45 a.m.

Last night the generator "learned" how to be a generator again. I took a length of wire, attached it to the battery at one end, and stripped off about 2" of insulation at the other end. This long strand of wire gets touched between the big and little spade terminals on the generator (Armature and Field, respectively) with the fan belt removed, and the generator then "motors", hopefully in the direction the engine would turn it.

It took a couple of times, but eventually the polarization "took", and, after reconnecting everything, at idle the multimeter read 12.7V across the battery, which went up to 13V when the throttle was blipped a little.

One by one, systems are coming back online.

Next up, figure out how to adjust these carburetors. And install the new ignition parts.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
6/14/17 9:37 a.m.

I love this car more than I should.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse UltraDork
6/14/17 10:18 a.m.

SU Carburetor Technical Info

For later reference, when I can't find this.

More Good Info on SUs

Sine_Qua_Non
Sine_Qua_Non Dork
6/14/17 10:32 a.m.
volvoclearinghouse wrote: SU Carburetor Technical Info For later reference, when I can't find this. More Good Info on SUs

Here's another one.

http://www.carburetor-blog.com/manuals/su_carburetor_manual.pdf

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