99 Miata Tech Sheet Homework and Help me Buy Stuff

I had a shop do my tech sheet for some upcoming events and they gave me some more detailed items that were necessary on stuff that I already had an idea needed replacing. Since im still pretty green to working on cars as this is my first track car im hoping you guys can help me translate what actual stuff I need to order then Ill take it from there and watch alot of youtube tutorials and lose some more socket wrenches in my engine bay. Note that they found it in my tech inspection this morning, SCORE

The following is my exact Tech Sheet along with my first attempt at what I think I need to purchase from Flyin Miata to address it. The brakes, tires and fluids im already going to take care of. 

Thanks for any help in advance! 

Would you prefer I answer your email privately or answer here? 

No, seriously. I can shoot you an email or we can turn it into a public discussion, I'm good either way.

Man. youre on top of it Keith. Im fine with you replying here in case it helps anyone else down the road :) 

Okay!

I'd probably do a full set of control arm bushings (https://www.flyinmiata.com/performance-rubber-bushing-kit.html) in place of the 13-98133 rear upper kit. If the rears are that far gone, then the others won't be in great shape either. The shock bushings you have on your order aren't called out so I'd call them optional.

For the various ball joints with damaged boots, you'll probably want to inspect them or just replace by default. The outer tie rod ends will take care of those, but you really need to get those upper ball joints free and see how easily they move. Broken boots means contamination which means ball joint wear. Upper ball joints on an NB are a non-repleacable part, alas, so you'd be looking at control arms.

I'd throw a set of shifter boots at the car because they'll be trash and that's probably the source of the leak at the gear selector housing. You could also rebuild the shifter, that's your call. Trans output seals are pretty easy to replace to deal with that dribbly leak.

The motor mounts you've chosen are going to increase the amount of NVH in the car. If you're driving on track or with the top down most of the time, no worries there. But if you commute in the car or drive with the top up, it might get tiresome and you may prefer the stock replacements.

Depending on what you're planning for suspension upgrades, you may not use a rear sway bar so that may be surplus. I'd put your new end links on the front and the old front ones on the rear, or not at all.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

I installed your Mazda competition motor mounts on my 90. I don’t actually feel or hear a difference in the car, but when I’m stopped at a light the hood is almost bouncing from the vibrations. Note that my hood was slightly tweaked at some point, which may be a factor, and that I’m also running 800/650 springs on Konis, which may be why I don’t feel anything from the mounts?

When you've dedicated yourself to the complete collection of NVH, the competition motor mounts are just a drop in the bucket  Some people never notice - or never mind. It drives others nuts. All depends on what you're doing with the car, really.

I would look at replacing that driveshaft too... I replaced mine when I noticed some noise on decel IIRC. Not a hard job, but the factory driveshaft doesn't have replaceable U-Joints. You can get a replacement that does, or just get a new stock one. The main piece is you don't want it to sieze up or you'll need a lot more. I was glad I did mine when I did, the next day someone else on a Facebook group posted a picture of his that siezed and ripped apart the transmission tail. Better to be safe than sorry. 

Pic related:

In reply to AWSX1686 :

Good point, I was a bit surprised to find all-3 of the driveshafts I got with the car were either tight & notchy, or loose and wobbly. A new one was ~$100 shipped and well worth it. 

So if Im going to order all new ball joints and tie rod ends how many in total are on the car. Im going to do the boots for now but if I take the car apart and the ball joints and tie rod ends all need to be replaced id like to know how many in total ill need.

In trying to address my tech sheet above im ordering the following with the intention that its just the boots that need replacing. 

2 x RUBBER BOOT FOR UPPER BALL JOINT FOR NA/NB

2x RUBBER BOOT FOR LOWER BALL JOINT

2x RUBBER BOOT FOR NA/NB TIE ROD ENDS

Now if I had to replace all of them im thinking I would need these, please tell me if im wrong on any of my numbers. The upper ball joints as I understand it cant be replaced as they are part of the control arms in the front and the back. 

2x https://www.flyinmiata.com/r-package-tie-rod-ends.html

2x https://www.flyinmiata.com/na-nb-lower-ball-joint.html

One upper and one lower ball joint per front wheel, plus one tie rod end per side. There are no ball joints in the rear on an NA or NB. 

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Thanks Keith, as for the tie rod end boots my friend suggested that if the b oot is cracked might as well just replace them with the R package, do you agree? I guess the ball joints are a bit tougher and sometimes you can get away with just the boot replacement. 

And in reading that theres 1 per side, if all the boots are borked I would need 4 of them I guess?

If the boot is cracked, the thing to do is manipulate the ball joint by hand. If it's easy to move, it's worn out. If it's stiff, you can probably get away with just a boot and fresh grease. 

There are a total of six ball joints on the car: two uppers, two lowers, two tie rods. I'm pretty sure each type wears a different size boot. If you're going to replace any ball joints, replace the tie rods because their failure mode is bad. The uppers and lowers will usually make noise first.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

FYI my local Advance had boots that fit the upper ball joints. Mine were good, but the rubber was dry rotted, so I did just as you described. 

Since it is going to be a track car, I would suggest going with the stiffer rubber control arm bushings.  I think the ones you get from the Mazda Motorsports are even stiffer than the ones from FM.  Replacing all those bushings is tedious, but not hard to do.  You want weight on the suspension when you tighten the bolts for most of the suspension stuff.

If it’s a track car, I’d just go ahead and install extended lower ball joints now while you have everything apart.  They let you get more camber.  I’d also go ahead and swap in some braided stainless steel brake lines.

With all those oil leaks, I would do a full front motor rebuild.  VC gasket, cam seals, CAS o ring, water pump, crank seal.

Toebra said:

Since it is going to be a track car, I would suggest going with the stiffer rubber control arm bushings.  I think the ones you get from the Mazda Motorsports are even stiffer than the ones from FM.  Replacing all those bushings is tedious, but not hard to do.  You want weight on the suspension when you tighten the bolts for most of the suspension stuff.

Same durometer for the bushings from FM and from Mazda Motorsports. Roughly 40% stiffer than stock. 

Instead of trying to get away with just replacing the cracked boots. I went ahead and just ordered all the ball joints, tie rods and end links necessary. i figure at least then ill know they are all fresh and replaced knowing that all of the boots have been cracked for awhile and that cant be great for the ones in there. 

So with this plan ill get the parts and replace those and get an alignment for my last 2 events of the season then over the winter break ill do all the motor, drivetrain stuff along with replacing all the bushing on the entire car. 

That sound like a plan?

Also, if Im planning to replace the upper ball join boot. lower ball joints and tie rod ends. While im waiting for the parts to get here should i be completely removing the front A arms from the car?

Trying to get as much pre work done as possible before the parts come in a few days. 

Why are you buying two FM jack adapters?  You using two floor jacks at the same time.

Toebra said:

Why are you buying two FM jack adapters?  You using two floor jacks at the same time.

great catch, one is for my buddy :)