David S. Wallens
David S. Wallens Editorial Director
7/9/19 2:25 p.m.

Illustrations by Sarah Young

Here's a link to part 1, where we discussed oil for street and autocross use. Have a classic? Here's a link to a article for those, too. 

Picture the spinning, rocking, whirling parts inside an engine. Now spin those same pieces to hundreds of thousands of revolutions per hour in a competition environment. And let’s do it …

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russelljones48 New Reader
7/9/19 4:47 p.m.

I like and take both of your magazines and have been waiting for these articles to answer several questions I have for 3 different vehicles: a stock 1967 230SL Mercedes, a highly modified 1970 Camaro - carburetted 383 that produces about 450HP and a 1987 300ZX race/track car. 

I am disappointed with this series of articles.  There really appear to be 2 or 3 standard answers; perhaps dictated by the respective corporate lawyers.  Answer 1: "follow the manufacturers recommendation".  Answer 2: "buy our specially formulated oil".  or "follow your engine builder's recommendation".  None of those 3 answers really helps me.  Or would cost me a lot more than solutions I think exist.  

Let's take each car and it's respective problem.  I would like to "improve" the oil in the Mercedes by using a newer synthetic but would also like the protection of ZDDP since there's no catalyst.  My question would be: what modern full synthetic should I use and how much ZDDP should I add per quart?  

The Camaro is much the same but a bit more of a mystery.  I have NO idea who built the engine and suspect that if I could find him/her their answer would be suspect and based only on their respective experience.  So, again the same question: what modern full synthetic should I use and how much ZDDP should I add?  I'm currently using a 10w-40 with a pint of ZDDP for the full change of 7 qts.

Last is the race car that competes in ChampCar endurance races.  The engine is required to be stock and the recent "Rockauto" rebuild was done by me, my son, and a local machine shop that honed the cylinders.  Clearances and rebuild components are stock or OEM replacements except for a reground cam.  Pan has some windage control but other than tuning it's stock and produced 175RWHP on the dyno/tuning run.  We would like to run an over-the-counter full synthetic and perhaps add some ZDDP  (we are curently running a rbeak-in oil).

All of these cars are DIY cars and we operate on tight budgets for each.  So, please don't tell me I need to buy $10-$15 per quart oil when I can get good modern full synthetic for less than 1/2 that price.  I suspect that many of your readers have similar challenges.  Perhaps your experts need to be off the record.



iceracer UltimaDork
7/9/19 7:20 p.m.

In reply to russelljones48 :

Agree 100%

Even when we were running the modified big block Chevy we didn't use any "race oil"   Just off the shelf Havoline.

lockdukie New Reader
7/9/19 11:07 p.m.

Just a little info on the dyno we found that on our 500 ci engine  we made close to 35 extra hp with one quart less oil in the engine and also another 15 for  0 W 20 synthetic oil.  I would not recommend you race this way depending on what type of racing you do. Drag racing we can get away with it, but I would just look at what you see on the dyno as you run it up for your tune up.  One of the things we look for is oil temp and viscosity as it warms up, then as we run it through its paces with about 10 pulls. the test stand has gauges to check remotely from the control room and a video on the board to make sure we don't miss anything, when celebrating when we make more then we anticipated.

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