I was gonna say copy Seth's homework and go with an Accord but then Seth himself said to do something else. But frankly seeing the Traccord and remembering the Malibu Maxx track rat makes me think pick a car for your commute and then just make it work at the track.
If it's just emissions stuff (half a point in compression isn't that big of deal), I say stick with the devil you know, and make the appropriate changes to make it reliably handle HPDE work.
02Pilot said:My 128i is N51/SULEV also. Yeah, the radiator is pretty silly, but I seem to recall reading that the fuel pump/gas tank wasn't crazy expensive some SULEV models. Once the warranty expires you can likely just code out the radiator sensor and call it done. The rest of the motor is pretty solid as long as it's been maintained. Just watch the accessory belt and pulleys.
Get a set of Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts before you do any track work. And if so inclined, the E9x M3 suspension bolts in. Yes, it's worth it.
I have a code for the sensor, so I'm pulling it and checking to see if I can fix anything before I start spending money. I did ask my local dealer if they could code it, and they wouldn't and said to repair it would cost $1100. 
My E36 has fared extremely well at 230k. My parent's E46 and E53 have not. The newer it gets, the more scared I am.
MINIzguy said:z31maniac said:{stuff}.
Checked Craigslist and nothing under $5k that is either a Civic Si, G35, GTI, Mustang that looks good to test drive. Will check TSX and cost of 2011 Mustangs next. I might already have the right car like some have said lol.
Keep in mind that Craigslist isn’t the idle browsing site for cars it used to be, and FBmarket searches might be required to get a feel for the market.
In reply to akylekoz :
Japanese cars and American trucks at my house and I've done Volvo, BMW and MB too
MINIzguy said:02Pilot said:My 128i is N51/SULEV also. Yeah, the radiator is pretty silly, but I seem to recall reading that the fuel pump/gas tank wasn't crazy expensive some SULEV models. Once the warranty expires you can likely just code out the radiator sensor and call it done. The rest of the motor is pretty solid as long as it's been maintained. Just watch the accessory belt and pulleys.
Get a set of Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts before you do any track work. And if so inclined, the E9x M3 suspension bolts in. Yes, it's worth it.
I have a code for the sensor, so I'm pulling it and checking to see if I can fix anything before I start spending money. I did ask my local dealer if they could code it, and they wouldn't and said to repair it would cost $1100.
My E36 has fared extremely well at 230k. My parent's E46 and E53 have not. The newer it gets, the more scared I am.
I understand, and I had the same trepidation going from my E28 to my E39, and my E39 to my current E82. That said, the 128i is the simplest of "modern" BMWs, and even considering the SULEV stuff it's not too bad. Proactive maintenance, as I'm sure you know, is hugely important to reliability in these cars.
As far as coding, either find a local indy shop who will do it (check CL - there's at least one guy around here who advertises coding for BMWs), or take an old laptop and get ISTA and a cable and do it yourself. I'm waiting for my 15/150 warranty to run out before I worry about it; if your car is registered in a SULEV state your repair should be covered.
In reply to 02Pilot :
150k on mine, ticked over that mark on the test drive!
I have to read up on coding and see how it all works. I only have INPA installed currently and am barely getting around it. I've read up as much as I can about the sensor, and was hoping INPA monitored its status. I came up with nothing, and there's barely any talk online about it. Still, leaning on the side of keeping it as all the recommended cars don't spark joy or are a "must have".
Daylan C said:I was gonna say copy Seth's homework and go with an Accord but then Seth himself said to do something else. But frankly seeing the Traccord and remembering the Malibu Maxx track rat makes me think pick a car for your commute and then just make it work at the track.
I wouldn't talk anyone out of an Accord, but my purpose was always to do dumb things with the car and I acknowledge that lots of people would be happier with a brakes/tires track car. Or just a car that you can buy actual performance parts for. I'm not a smart man.
I'll throw in some options not mentioned yet, fourth gen F-body with the V8 and T-56. If you don't mind the size and SRA and maybe unlike me you're tall enough to see out of them they're great cars and under rated as a total package. Very practical with the liftback and fold down rear seat and plenty of storage in the rear without the T-top tray if you get a hardtop. My brother's that's a bit over 6 foot could fit in the rear comfortably if the front seat was far enough up(and behind me it was since I'm short). Just as reliable as any Japanese car I've owned, and short of the dashboard the interior(at least with cloth seats) isn't any worse than a similarly priced Japanese car of the time. Thoroughly impressed me and changed my opinion of domestic cars. Best of all I'd get upper 20's even low 30's depending on if I was doing 55-70 mph in 6th gear where it more or less idled going down the road while still having a touch over 300 horsepower and a magnificent exhaust note. You might just have a problem finding a nice V8 T-56 for $5K these days as they seem to have gone up in value since I bought mine in 2016.
The other option I had in mind is if you aren't averted to FWD is I'd look at the 7th generation Celica GT-S 6-speed. They don't seem to get the love(or desecration) that Hondas do for whatever reason, I think you could find a nice one under $4K easily. 180 horsepower stock with an Apexi ECU unlocking 20+ hp and there're always cams to get more. Being a liftback it's very practical, though the backseat isn't anywhere as usable for people as the F-body. Well renowned for their handling prowess at the time, throw in a readily available helical LSD and you'd be golden. Plus they get 30+ mpg.
Though as already mentioned you already know what you have in the 128i, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy either of the above in good shape that checked out during a test drive. Then again I know them too, so it's probably different for me. One more option I can think of would be a Lexus IS300 5-speed, might be tricky finding a decent one for $5K these days though.
Looks like these have been mentioned already and I only breezed through the posts, but Civic Si, RSX Type S, TSX. Or any Honda or Acura that suits you. Maybe an early Mazda 6. I've been having the same thought as you. Currently I run a 98 Prelude Type SH which used to be my DD and has been ultra reliable, but I have been wanting something faster, and the above really tick all the boxes for me.
Another vote for a 350z, G35, Mustang or maybe c4 corvette
Starting from a functional 128i and then trying to find a better daily/hpde car for 5k is a crazy ask. 90% chance you are better off in all respects keeping the 128. Where i'm at you'd be paying almost as much in sales tax on another 5k car as you would to buy that 'high dollar' radiator anyway.
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