Most of the ones I can think of are already covered, but here's another:
Subaru EJ18...an EJ22 swaps in with literally zero other changes (even the ECM works) and you can get perfectly fine used EJ18s all day long for $100-200. People pull fine working EJ18/22 out of older Subies and put in EJ20/EJ25 turbo motors in because the Subies are like legos.
Bryce
Slant Sixes are routinely given away, tossed, or subjected to "How long will it last at WOT without oil or water?" tests, by people swapping in V8's. Slants are pretty simple, reliable and rebuildable. They just aren't sexy, at least to most hotrodders caught up in displacements and cylinder counts. I wish they'd just list them in the "Free" section of Craigslist instead of melting then down or trying to blow them up.
Toyota 4AC/4AF/4AFE - no sense rebuilding when there are so many good swap options.
Add the following to the disposable collection:
Pontiac 301 Olds 260 and 307
Greg
slantvaliant wrote: Slant Sixes are routinely given away, tossed, or subjected to "How long will it last at WOT without oil or water?" tests, by people swapping in V8's. Slants are pretty simple, reliable and rebuildable. They just aren't sexy, at least to most hotrodders caught up in displacements and cylinder counts. I wish they'd just list them in the "Free" section of Craigslist instead of melting then down or trying to blow them up.
Only exception I can see to this is if it's sporting the factory 2bbl setup. I got $300 for a high mileage 225 with a 2bbl and automatic behind it. Still ran like a top, though. And yes, it was being replaced with a 360.
Keith wrote: MGB motor. Seriously, it's almost impossible to give one away in fine running condition.
Huh?! are you saying you have one? I may be interested...
Unless... its out of a 76' later.... then you can keep your paperweight. 
From the sports racer end of things, you can get a nearly new liter-bike engine and transmission, FI and ECU for under 2k...no sense in rebuilding just about anything. Unless you're like me and want to see what you can get out of an old KZ.
I'd like to add the chevy 305. Tiny bores and a 350 can be had for nearly free.
And I wouldn't bat an eyelash if the BMW diesels from the 80s disappeared. Same for the Olds diesel 265/350, except they make killer cores for building a bulletproof gas Olds.
The 4.3 V6 from chevy was another one. Boring, and a 350 bolts right in :)
curtis73 wrote: The 4.3 V6 from chevy was another one. Boring, and a 350 bolts right in :)
Disagree - Jeep guys LOVE that motor, and I see a lot of swaps TO the Vortech 4.3L.
Honda D-series single cam motors.
I just gave away a D15B7 longblock with a blown headgasket for $20. It had 60k on it.
ReverendDexter wrote:curtis73 wrote: The 4.3 V6 from chevy was another one. Boring, and a 350 bolts right in :)Disagree - Jeep guys LOVE that motor, and I see a lot of swaps TO the Vortech 4.3L.
+1
Run_Away wrote: Honda D-series single cam motors. I just gave away a D15B7 longblock with a blown headgasket for $20. It had 60k on it.
I'll throw in damned near any honda motor (obvious exceptions excluded) from the last 15 years or so. 5-wire O2 sensor for a 200,000 mile Civic VX? $350. 30,000 mile motor, including 5 wire O2? $400-$500.
On the flip side... there's been a recent resurgence of people in Indianapolis building D-series for their cars....
spitfirebill wrote: Not a lot of love lost on the Triumph 1500. But as I say that I am trying to finish a rebuild on one.
I'm looking for one to build. Read that as no crank end play and free. 
No play and free is a good combination.
But actually, even if the thrust washers have dropped, as long as the crank and rear main cap area have not been munched too badly, you can repair them pretty cheaply.
And even if they are chewed up, an otherwise OK block can be slavaged.
It's a shame that so many of those blocks get tossed.
Carter Shore
When I bought my midget from the guy who built it, I asked about the Triumph motor instead of the 1275.
His words were: "The crank is spun sugar with some journals ground on it"
Shawn
In the Saturn S-series world, SOHCs are rarely rebuilt. The DOHCs are a direct bolt-in, swap the motor and the engine computer, and you've got another 24 horsepower (or an extra 39, if it's '91-'94), a bit more torque, and a 1000 rpm higher rev limit. The SOHCs generally run a bit longer and get slightly better MPG, but it's usually outweighed by the upsides. Get a '93 head and you'll even get yourself some flat-faced valves and a ~9.6:1 compression ratio!
Spun Sugar indeed! Nothing quite so 'refined' I'd say (ughh). The 1500 cranks typically don't break, it's usually the #3 conrod bearing that's spun because they were over-revved (anything more than about 5500 with stock internals is asking for trouble). Or the thrust washers drop, because some of the aftermarket bearings were crap (cough,cough Glacier! cough,cough), or installed backwards with the steel against the crank instead of the bearing metal.
Carter
Per, Who are the suppliers?
I don't remember a list of suppliers on the Bizarkely article. Was there one, if so I will go back and get the info from that mag. If not enlighten me please
I am looking for one Specifically a Hayabusa for a reverse trike project
Per Schroeder wrote: From the sports racer end of things, you can get a nearly new liter-bike engine and transmission, FI and ECU for under 2k...no sense in rebuilding just about anything. Unless you're like me and want to see what you can get out of an old KZ.
Plus you get a higher compression ratio for added umph
ReverendDexter wrote:Trans_Maro wrote:Yeah, but is that rebuilding the 20R or swapping it with a 22R? FWIW, this is the path I'm going, as California Smogotistas won't notice the different block under my stock everything else and CARB-approved carburetor.ReverendDexter wrote: Toyota 20Rs - why build it when a 22R bolts right in?20R flows better, you can put the head on a 22R but it's a bugger to keep the EFI.
This wasn't what I'd thought it would be. This week, I (stupidly?) "threw-away a '92 Integra, with a rebuilt B18 in it. Why? I did an oil/filter change last month and "got it wrong" and the engine died this week. I now realize that even tho I was 250 miles from home, and the chassis had 210,000 miles on it, I STILL should have brought it back and thrown another engine in it. Looking for a replacement car, I found a few, interesting, cheap/cheapish trucks, and only 1 or 2 decent cars. A '05 Sunfire, with 50K, LOADED, that one of the local Saturn dealers might have "given away" for less than 6 grand....taxes included.
Greg55_99 wrote: 2. Small block Chevy V8's displacing less than 305 cubes. Let's see, theres a 262, 268 and a 283. Other than for nostalgia reasons, not enough cubes to make it worthwhile. Costs just as much to do a 350.
Monkey in the wrench for this thought, the chevy 307 If i remember right its a 283 block with the later style 327 crank in it what a dog, speaking of gm small bore long stroke v8s, the 366 chevy big block, only came in heavy duty trucks and boy is it a turd!
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