DIYAutotune Microsquirt controlled sr20ve - help?

I'm helping with a friend's race car that they're trying to switch over to microsquirt. 

It's an sr20ve, but with a sr20DE distributor - I'm not nissan fluent so bear with me. We checked and it has the insanely detailed 360 outer wheel and then the 4 cut inner wheel in the distributor. According to the doc we **should be able to at least run it on the 4 cutout. I wasn't able to see an RPM signal when cranking so we're doing something wrong. 

- Does anyone have a tunerstudio base setup for a microsquirt'ed sr20de ? 
- I've uploaded the tune file - again I did very little setup and haven't rev isited, but maybe it'll tell someone something... 
- Can anyone tell me which wire on the dizzy goes with which signal output? 

The current configuration, we were just trying to see a crank signal:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RG8KTCJHwNGMCIEIwUaZ50DUqwkPkL2A/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we decided it'd be better if we just V8'd it ;) 

The sensor VR or hall/optical? It looks on quick search it's optical if so...

You connected the 4 window wire to VR1-? Pullup resistor installed between VR1- and  feed voltage? If you are using an amp'd micro, there is a dip switch inside to turn it on. 

You can verify if you see any pulses using the trigger/tooth logger.

If it's the Nissan CAS system, you should buy this trigger wheel for setup with MS and follow this guide:

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/

That's uh, drastic! I got mine started finally-- I will wager that the base map will get you started just fine if all your wiring is correct. Ahem. Cough (look up 62 Midget MZR thread for my own idiotic attempts to start micro squirt: TL:DR- it's no the ecu, like;y a wiring issue). And tuning- even with ITB's, high compression, and long duration cams, has been pretty straightforward so far, and dare I say, fun.