Engine Rebuild- uh, so how do you do that?

I agree that 105k on that engine is low. First thing I do is a compression test. If all cylinders are within 10% of each other and it doesn't burn oil, I would put a chain on it and put your foot to the floor.

On a little more technical note, what needs to be done to the cylinders during a rebuild depends on the cylinders. Given the side loading, the combustion pressures, and several other factors, cylinder walls don't wear evenly. They wear in an egg-shaped pattern from side loads, and also taper from bigger to smaller in different locations in the bore. Since the original rings have worn in the same pattern as the odd-shaped bore, sometimes just replacing rings can make things worse. You would be putting new, perfectly-round rings in a not-round bore. A good bore gauge will let you measure out-of-round and taper to determine if you can just dingle ball it or if it needs to be overbored. The "correct" answer is almost always an overbore since you're that far into it, but the GRM truth is that often times you can get away with just a hone and rings.

Same thing for the crank journals. If they're egg-shaped, scored, or otherwise in need of machining, get it done while its apart. If its still in good shape, just slap some new bearings in it.

question from a noob who's never had his engine open. How do you measure the diameter of a cylinder at any location other than the very top or bottom? Are there special micrometers with a deep reach?

peter wrote: question from a noob who's never had his engine open. How do you measure the diameter of a cylinder at any location other than the very top or bottom? Are there special micrometers with a deep reach?

It may not be the correct way, but I used the new rings, placed them at various places up and down the cylinder, then used a feeler gauge to measure the end gap. I was able to determine that the bore diameter was very nearly constant top to bottom, and within the recommended range for stock rings.

Those 22RE's are pretty tough. They are known for piston slap, though. The bores will be fine, but the piston skirt will have enough wear that when cold you'd swear the pistons were swapping holes. This (usually) goes away as the engine warms up.

But back to the initial question: see if you can find a Hayne's manual. Clymer manuals suck donkey balls. There's a lot of good info in the Haynes, even if they do use generic pictures.

It helps to think around problems too. For instance, when checking the aforementioned piston skirt clearance they tell you to use a snap gauge for the bore and a micrometer for the piston skirt, subtract the piston size from the bore size and there's your clearance. There's a much simpler and cheaper way, use feeler gauges. You start with the minimum spec, let's say it's .002. If the piston slide easily with the .002 feeler gauge between the piston and bore, you go up to, say, .004. Still easy? Go up another .002. Keep doing this till the piston is hard to move in the bore, there's your piston to cylinder clearance. Check this in different areas to see if the wear is excessive in one spot as compared to another.

Cylinder ridges can be a problem. Here's the deal: the old top ring has worn to fit the ridge. This leaves almost like a chamfer on the outside of the top ring. So far, so good; it doesn't create a problem. Now someone comes along and puts new rings on the old piston without doing something about the ridge, The new ring does not 'match' the ridge, at higher RPM the top outer edge hits the ridge and much weeping ensues.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=bore+gauge&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7GGLL_en&prmd=s&resnum=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=11814490331552475170&ei=iYn7TL3hOYP6lwe2mvmWBQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAA#

I have a set of these, they'll do everything from 3/8" to over 6". Draw back is you'll need something to read with, a mic of caliper. A Dial Caliper is handy to have whether you rebuild the engine or not.

Dan

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-PC-TELESCOPE-GAGES-PRECISION-MACHINIST-TOOL-GAUGE-SET-/290417207692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439e36e98c

^^^measuring is great advice. Higher mileage engine often ovalize the bores, and the diameter of the bore will not be consistent from top to bottom (iie. it also becomes cone shaped). May not be a problem on your engine, but if you have it apart it's worth checking.

Check the head as well - make sure the valves form a good seal and that there's not a lot of side to side play.

That's why I suggested a Shop Manual, they tell you the allowable difference in taper and egg shape.

Dan

I have one of those digital dial calipers, it's a lifesaver. Be aware they are usually less precise than a real micrometer.

canoe

Emailed Tom on the canoe