I have a set of 18x8" OZ Ultraleggeras with (I think) 67.1mm center bores. They fit my Mazdaspeed3. One of the new cars I am considering has the same bolt pattern as the MS3 but has a 70.5mm center bore. If I take it to a competent wheel repair shop, they should be able to bore it out safely, right? The change in bore size is only 0.14" (3.4mm).
Yup. As long as there's enough meat there, this is a simple and often-performed procedure.
Any machine shop with big lathe or a "gap bed" lathe should be able to do this no problem.
here is my unsolicited advice.
i have strong opinions about running larger wheels than what make rational sense in regards to performance. i believe in running the smallest diameter that can clear your calipers while providing the width one desires. if you wanted to run 10+ inch wide 18's than your situation falls into the grey area. it would than make more sense to go 18's because of the increased tire and wheel options; e.g. 18x10 wheel and 265+ widths. but the size you are wanting to run does not conform to this logic. 225's are pretty common place in 13-17's diameters.
run what you are happy with but if you want to chase efficiencies in an effort to increase performance than the aforementioned advice could be considered.
logicfactory wrote: here is my unsolicited advice. i have strong opinions about running larger wheels than what make rational sense in regards to performance. i believe in running the smallest diameter that can clear your calipers while providing the width one desires. if you wanted to run 10+ inch wide 18's than your situation falls into the grey area. it would than make more sense to go 18's because of the increased tire and wheel options; e.g. 18x10 wheel and 265+ widths. but the size you are wanting to run does not conform to this logic. 225's are pretty common place in 13-17's diameters. run what you are happy with but if you want to chase efficiencies in an effort to increase performance than the aforementioned advice could be considered.
I believe the Mazdaspeed3 had 18" wheels from factory, so....
I did my own center bore increase on Escort GT 15" wheels with two hole saws stacked inside of each other. I took my time and they fit on the hub of my VW really well.
Granted, I wouldn't trust that method for a car that is driven on the street or the track. That was for a rallycross only car, so if they break, no real harm done.
In case your're wondering, to go from a 54.1 (Miata, Escort GT) to 57.1 mm (BMW, VW) I used a 2 1/4 inches stacked on a 2 1/8 saw with a few big washers used to offset them from each other.
Again, I would not do this on a street driven or track driven car, pay the money and let somebody do it on a precision machine.
If you're handy with it, you can do it with a router.
Zomby woof wrote: If you're handy with it, you can do it with a router.
I am certain that Red Green would do that. He is pretty handy.
pilotbraden wrote:Zomby woof wrote: If you're handy with it, you can do it with a router.I am certain that Red Green would do that. He is pretty handy.
Hey, if the women don't find you handsome...
Zombie thread.
I might need to do this on some wheels soon. Likely going from 72.5mm (bmw) to 74mm (Jag xj). Thoughts? It isnt even a mm of material...
Might want to check that math. ;)
i wonder if you could put sandpaper around a close fitting hole saw and run it inside the bore to enlarge it? Get the good sandpaper!
I have some to do as well from 63.3 to 65.1 (Merkur xr4ti to Saab 900). I am planning on using a belt sander/dynabrade or flap wheel to remove the material.
There are a few YouTube videos of this being done with a router and a carbide bit. I keep meaning to try it on a scrap wheel to see how well it works out. Otherwise, I'd take them to a machine shop and have them turned on a lathe.
I did this (by a very, very small amount) with the nicer Toyota (I think...) wheels that I got and put on the accursed Jeep Patriot I had. They were *juuuuust* too small to fit over the hubs, so I got a drum sander pack from HF and used that the get the clearance necessary to fit them on the Patriot.
logicfactory said:here is my unsolicited advice.
i have strong opinions about running larger wheels than what make rational sense in regards to performance. i believe in running the smallest diameter that can clear your calipers while providing the width one desires. if you wanted to run 10+ inch wide 18's than your situation falls into the grey area. it would than make more sense to go 18's because of the increased tire and wheel options; e.g. 18x10 wheel and 265+ widths. but the size you are wanting to run does not conform to this logic. 225's are pretty common place in 13-17's diameters.
run what you are happy with but if you want to chase efficiencies in an effort to increase performance than the aforementioned advice could be considered.
Been roundly shown more tire = faster times in basically every scenario. Even with an increase weight.
In reply to Brett_Murphy :
You can do this and I wouldn't worry about a rally-cross car, but if you want the wheel to remain hub-centric you'd have to take them to a machine shop.
I miss SF1 posting here. I didn't realize this was an old thread until I saw his post and then saw that it was from 5 years ago.
In reply to dculberson :
Am I missing something?
(74.1 - 72.5)/2=0.8mm
singleslammer said:In reply to dculberson :
Am I missing something?
(74.1 - 72.5)/2=0.8mm
Ahh, no I wasn't dividing by two. I R Smrt
In reply to dculberson :
no worries
I was thinking a drum sander on a Dremel and a lot of time. It is just so close.
This is where a machine shop buddy comes in handy.
I've found a lot of machine shops won't do this on the books because of liability fears, and a lot of wheel specialty shops that do advertise it often charge enough to not really be worth it vs. just selling / buying wheels that fit.
But if you know a guy.... it's really not much work at all once it's set up, and I've had success in the ~1 case of beer payment after hours.
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