thoraxe
New Reader
11/9/13 11:18 a.m.
Referring to my thread about looking for a motor:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/looking-for-a-2jz-shortlong-block/73477/page1/
What is the "proper" way to determine oil capacity once you add filter relocators, coolers, sumps, etc?
The factory capacity for a 1JZ engine is somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 quarts. I have a 3qt accusump, a relocated filter, and an oil cooler.
6 quarts + 3 quarts for the sump+motor is 9 quarts.
If I guess at another 2-3 quarts for the hoses, plumbing and cooler that puts me at 12 quarts.
Even with 8 quarts, the dipstick read full.
Now, this car is cursed (trust me), so it's possible that it did not have the correct dipstick. But it brings up the question about how to really determine what the correct oil capacity is once you start adding extra places for oil to go.
I like adding a lot of capacity and then running the oil at the "add" mark. You still have capacity, but now you're keeping it further away from the crank, which has a lot of benefits.
Ah, who am I kidding. I just run my engines one-two quarts low. Never needed any additional capacity...
I'd just fill it up till you some in the dipstick, run it to temp and let it sit for 5 mins. then check the level. Keep track of then amount you put in.
As long as you installed all this stuff so it stay full of oil when you shut it off(so on the cooler and filter kit all ports up), fill it to the full mark, maybe a bit more for hoses.
You have to know which components drain back into the oil pan when you shut the engine off...or when installing everything, have anything that could drain back hanging down from the engine and full, set oil level to full mark, then install everything to its final location and check the level - that's your new "full" level.
And once you've figured it out, put a label on the car. I did that on the Targa Miata - figured the correct level with everything full via the experimental method, and kept track of how much I put in.
