I'm not a fan of the oil change on my veloster for several reasons. Its not horrible, but its not nearly as simple as it could be.
I'm not a fan of the oil change on my veloster for several reasons. Its not horrible, but its not nearly as simple as it could be.
there are some cars that you want to get a hole saw out and drill some holes so you can get a socket and extension to the plugs.......
If you have the STAR diagnostic computer that mercedes uses to talk to their cars, you can do a brake bleed job on a w211 E class. And if you don't, you can't. Full stop. Hah hah. See what I did there
Driver's side spark plugs on my 2.5 Subaru Outback are so bad I paid my mechanic, nickname Gumby to do them.
Literally 1" of clearance (about 8" down) to remove coil pack and maneuver the wrench and turn the plugs. U-joint helps but I couldn't even back the coil out without fear of breaking it.
Alternator on 07 V6 Camry: located on the bottom side of engine. Not sure if it is designed to be done from underneath or top, but my brother ended up taking the whole front bumper off to change his.
Intermediate passenger side CV shaft seal on 06 Odyssey: $3 piece and only took me like 8hrs to replace it. So dang tight and right next to exhaust. Also freezing cold and disorganized garage with no lift, so that is a big part if it.
Absolute dumbest setup ever is the headlight bulb on 2010ish Malibus: need to remove front bumper and headlight assembly to remove bulb, or maybe be a skinny 7yrold to be able to reach it. Couple hours or so to change a stupid light bulb...
Javelin said:Oil filter on a 3800 V6 GM.
?? I've done this about 6X now on the two Grand Prixs I've owned. I grant you it's difficult if the filter is on tight. At that point I sigh and know I'm going to have to pull the wheel off. But usually it's no big deal from below.
Supra 7M-GTE starter motor.
Nearly impossible to get your hand in to turn a wrench.
CPS on a 4.0l Jeep Comanche.
Nice big, I-6 bellhousing, where does Renault put it? Right at the top. Can't get your hand behind the head to change it, have to get it from underneath, on top of the trans with about 4' worth of extensions to remove the bolts.
Schmoo the back of the sensor with grease to hold it in place while you try to get the bolts back in.
Accessory drive belts on a Saab C900 are up against the firewall with limited access, especially with A/C. Not terrible, but certainly not as easy as a normal longitudinal engine. Not a bad trade-off for the ease of changing the clutch, actually.
dropstep said:Tune up on a late 90s+ 4.3 blazer/s10, oil change on a 15-18 Kia anything. 15+ bolts for a plastic under tray. Oil change on a 2.2 (pre eco tech) cavalier
Beat me to the cavalier
Since I just did this......wheel stud on 01 civic. You must disassemble the hub to remove the stud. Since the outer race come off with the hub you might as well replace the bearing
Oil filter on Peugeot 505. I forget which motor but required the alternator to be moved out of the way.
Water pump on Saab 900 turbo with air. Hahahahahaha
Re: drilling holes for access. I worked for a guy who told me that at the shop he was foreman they would drill holes in the firewall from the passenger compartment of various cars to do certain jobs then weld em back up. Took less time than book rate.
Heater core on an S-blazer.
Those trucks are lab grown, they start with the heater core and grow the truck from it.
Ford Focus alternator...it's positioned such that it's back by the firewall, blocked by the exhaust heat shield and several other things, and most of the bolts have to be accessed from the bottom...I tried and gave up. Currently dragging my feet on having someone do it for me.
Timing belt on my 03 Passat. It feels like you have to take the whole front end off.
Front rotors on a 1990 GMCK2500 with the 8600 GVWR. The rotor is behind the hub flange and the wheel studs are seated in the rotor. Requires removing the axle nut, unbolting the hub bearing, and then knocking out the wheel studs.
Serpentine belt on an early 2000s Malibu with a v6. Who though having to remove a motor mount to replace a belt was a good idea?
ShawnG said:Heater core on an S-blazer.
Those trucks are lab grown, they start with the heater core and grow the truck from it.
Sounds a lot like the heater core in an early 2000s Malibu. Remove complete dash, drop steering column, and then take the heater box out of the car. The access panel in the heater box is at the bottom with no room to remove it in the car.
In reply to No Time :
Yup.
S-blazer: seats out, console out, dsh out, etc.
Kia Rio timing belts are easy, unless you don't like spiders:
Mazda 323 gtx rotors. They're bolted to the hub from the back. Unbolting them means taking the hub apart. Which prettymuch guarantees the wheel bearings will be ruined. Which means putting the hub on a press to get the races off. And Don't misplace that specific-to-that-hub spacer. Oh you better not.
rustyvw said:Timing belt on my 03 Passat. It feels like you have to take the whole front end off.
You do. But then everything is right there. And it is not the whole front end. Just the core support/radiator/condenser and bumper.
I am surprised no one has mentioned head gaskets on some Ford diesel trucks. Step one, remove cab of truck. WTF?
Motor mounts on my old 1st gen S10. 4.3. Completely remove lower control arms. Seriously GM, wtf?
noddaz said:I am surprised no one has mentioned head gaskets on some Ford diesel trucks. Step one, remove cab of truck. WTF?
I thought that one was more like "it's not necessary to take the cab off, but it's easy enough to do that it's faster that way"
Sheesh y'all suck.
Anything in a PT cruiser. Hemi sparkplugs in a Durango. Oil pan replacement on a 6.7 Cummins in vehicle.
I hear the timing belts on those FWD Mitsubishi transverse V6’s (GT 3000) are pretty hellish.
I imagine timing belts on any transverse V6 is less than pleasant.
Some of those jobs are not easy even when they are easy, like replacing a starter.
But checking the trans fluid level? That should take like 5 seconds. On the Volvo C30, you have to jack up the car, remove the underpan,
and reach up from the bottom to unclip the tab and push up the dipstick. Then from the top pull off the airbox (which can't actually be removed unless you undo the motor mounts) and move it to the side, so you can now reach it to pull it up.
I understand they actually eliminated the dip stick altogether in the newer ones, to check it requires some special tool connecting to the drain plug.
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