Learn me: 66-67 Mustangs

Hi all,

Anyone have advice/experience with these? Specifically the GT-level Fastbacks (a Shelby/Hertz/etc is way beyond my price range). I got to drive a '66 GT that was basically stock (SBF/4 speed) and really, really enjoyed it, and I always liked the pre-bloat first gen Mustangs. This would be my 1st antique car, oldest up to this point is an '85 MR2.

Intention would be just a cruiser, something to rumble along driving at 4/10ths. Way down the line I'd consider resto-modding it with a Coyote 5.0/Tremec, improved suspension, brakes, etc., but 1st 5 years or so would just be fun old car to drive around.

Thoughts?

I've had similar thoughts over the years - and dreams of a GT350 clone... The sobering part is how much guys are asking for even crusty fast-back 1st gen Mustangs. If you are on a budget, then a notch-back may be more in your price range... for example, there are literally 4 crusty notch-backs within a few miles of my house. Three in my immediate neighborhood. Of course, none moves very often and all live up to the "rustang" moniker.

While the fast-back gets the glory, the notch-back was raced as well in Trans Am back in the day.

Find/buy the best one that you can afford.

I'll echo what was said above...sellers treat the fastbacks like they are gold plated, no matter what the condition.

Thanks for all the replies so far guys.

Part of what brought this to the front burner for me was actually watching the most recent Barrett-Jackson auction in a bar with some friends from work. I saw some absolutely stunning 1st gen Fastbacks going for under $40K, and it started the wheels turning......my thinking was if the numbers-matching, 1-of-none, concourse cars were in that range, a good-condition driver would be in the $10-20K range. Maybe that's optimistic on my part, as my searching so far has lined up with all of yours, I've seen rusty, tired cars with asking prices over $20K.

Not really in any rush, and as mentioned, non-original/numbers matching/whatever is no big deal to me, just that everything's there and in good shape. So hopefully that'll open the market up a bit more for finding the right seller.

Do any of you have any favorite forums for browsing pony car classifieds other than Hemmings and Autotrader?

RacingInc, thanks very much for the offer. I still have quite a bit of research to do, but as that gets done and I narrow in on a couple of cars, I'll definitely email you! Added Stangnet to the list as well (thanks!).

66-67 cars are generally not grouped together. 65-66 are very similar, as are 67-68.

I've owned two 65's, one coupe and one fastback, and I've restored 67 and 68 convertibles. The 67-68's are a little larger, a little more comfortable and not nearly as good looking. This is not my opinion, it is a fact. 68 and up cars also have a collapsible steering column, which may be of interest to you, if you plan on hitting on anything with it.

If you don't care about numbers matching, then don't pay a premium for an original GT. Just build a good car up to GT (or better) specs. I would, however, start with an original V8 car. C code V8's are common. GT's were A or K, and any A or K demands more money. Even the basic disc brake conversion kits are better than the original GT discs.

The front cowl will leak, unless it has been repaired, and it is not an easy fix. You should check the rear "cowl" area (the area between the rear window and trunk opening), especially on a fastback. Take a flashlight, stick your head in the trunk and look up underneath the panel. There should be stamped reinforcements panels visible up there. A dried out, leaky rear window seal will lead to rust up there. As far as I know, replacement panels for that area are not available. There are enough donor coupes out there to find a good replacement piece, but donor fastbacks are scarce.

Just about every other piece on the car is reproduced, so they are good candidates for a first restoration project, though convertibles are harder to get right than coupes and fastbacks.

There was a time in my life when I knew more about early Mustangs than I did about anything else. I love to look at them, but even when they are well set up, I found that driving them was disappointing compared to even semi-modern cars.

Please do not build another Shelby clone.

In reply to Woody:

Whoops, yes I definitely meant 65-66. I like the flattened trunk section aft of the fastback slope, rather than one integrated edge, and their smaller size.

Great advice on the starting platform....for some reason (basically, I'm ignorant), I thought all fastbacks were GT-or-better cars. A non-GT V8 car is perfectly acceptable to me.

No worries on a Shelby or Eleanor clone, not interested. Stripes aren't really my thing anyway. I WOULD like to do a resto-mod, with a clean, stock exterior/interior and modern everything underneath.

I see you are in Ohio. For cheaper and/or less rusty examples plan on heading south. A Mustang behind a barn costs the same anywhere, but in the south you will actually have some metal beneath the door handles.

If you can live without the Mustang styling, a Falcon or Comet will do all the same stuff for a 1/4 of the buy-in. Plus you could build a 2-door wagon, which is just too cool.

Junkyard_Dog wrote: If you can live without the Mustang styling, a Falcon or Comet will do all the same stuff for a 1/4 of the buy-in.

Not unless you settle for a 4 door. Falcons are bringing good money these days. I've looked at both, and I'd say Falcons are only a 25% discount off a comparable condition/equipped Mustang. Remember, we're talking decent drivers, not restored show pieces.

ddavidv wrote:

Junkyard_Dog wrote: If you can live without the Mustang styling, a Falcon or Comet will do all the same stuff for a 1/4 of the buy-in.

Not unless you settle for a 4 door. Falcons are bringing good money these days. I've looked at both, and I'd say Falcons are only a 25% discount off a comparable condition/equipped Mustang. Remember, we're talking decent drivers, not restored show pieces.

+1 on less price differance these days.

yea I thought I was the only fool that wanted and old Falcoon. Still I started looking.

My wife bought a 66 coupe in 1976 for $1,100. One owner car-all original. 4V and 4 speed. Also, drum brakes and no AC. 17 mpg no matter how we drove it. Beautiful car that many people tried to buy from us. My F-I -L ended up with the car and also turned down numerous offers. He finally sold it to one of his workers for $2,500 and it was pretty ratty by then. I wish I had this car back. With some modern upgrades it would be sweet.

1. Drive one before you get too in love with the idea - You might change your mind.
2. Much can be easily done to change your mind.
3. Rust is usually where you don't easily see it - Cowl, unibody, torque boxes, rear subframe, trunk.
4. If you pour water in the cowl vents and it doesn't come out anywhere except the drains, you may have a good car on your hands.
5. Parts are ridiculously cheap, and they are ridiculously cheap.
6. Don't expect it to appreciate in value unless it's something special, like a K-code.
7. You're better off buying a solid running car than a project. People want your left nut for projects, idunno why.
8. As mentioned before, check the front shock towers for lean.
9. If you want a really solid and original '65 fastback driver, let me know, as I may be selling mine.

In reply to bravenrace:

Thanks for the offer! Did you PM me by chance? (got one from a fellow OH GRM'er, but the email didn't match your username). I'd definitely love to see some pictures and get a ballpark asking price, but it will probably be several months before I buy a car, I still have lots of research and exploration to do.

On the Mustang/Falcon debate, sadly I'm a slave to fashion on this one. Want the Mustang for purely illogical/emotional reasons. I have great respect for the Falcon though, saw a couple at the last Good Guys show that were stunning.

In reply to Flynlow:

Yeah, that was me. I'm not in any hurry either. Maybe give me a shout when the snow clears and we'll talk and maybe take a test drive.

Good luck with the search, we definitely think alike with regard to the cars and planned mods.

I will never own a real Boss 69 because I just wouldn't leave it alone...

Steve

Weird, I find the '67-'68 cars to be MUCH better looking than the '65-'66 cars. Enough so that I wouldn't even consider owning a '65 or '66.

In reply to ReverendDexter:

Good for you.

ReverendDexter wrote: Weird, I find the '67-'68 cars to be MUCH better looking than the '65-'66 cars. Enough so that I wouldn't even consider owning a '65 or '66.

Interesting. I mean, you're wrong. Completely. But interesting nonetheless

Just giving you a hard time, it actually works out perfect, we can hunt for cars together, and there's no overlap to fight over!

Price be damned at 15k, but I'd pimp this: Hotlinked of course.

I'm going to cut it up anyways for a SFI 25.3 cage, BBF, glide, etc... "street" car.

Bumping this up from the dead. I went and looked at a '65 today. Very, very pretty car, I'm considering making an offer.

Anyone know of a decent shop that can do a PPI and check some of the normal Mustang areas in the area east of Washington, DC (Dunkirk or Tracy's Landing, MD area)? This is a car that's been restored, but the current owner is not the one that did the resto, so I don't have information about what has been repaired/fixed for floors, cowl, etc.

Thanks!

Additionally, if anyone in the area has one, and wouldn't mind me stopping by your garage and taking a look to compare, I'd happily buy you beer for your trouble!

Nice choice for a daily driver, most DEFINITELY drive one in the condition that you looking for. It will take a few hours before you can really decide though. My buddy owned a '66 fastback, I drove a '67 convertible. Different cars for sure, but similar enough to share a few problem areas and build quality.

These cars rattle! The windows rattle a LOT! They can be both stiff and flexible at the same time in different areas. Primitive suspension and one the cheap side, brakes are from an era when they weren't too important. Of course look the car over with a magnifying glass and a sharp pointed metal stick.

Still, buy it right and you'll have just a beautiful timeless car to enjoy forever!

Flynlow wrote: Hi all, Anyone have advice/experience with these? Specifically the GT-level Fastbacks (a Shelby/Hertz/etc is way beyond my price range). I got to drive a '66 GT that was basically stock (SBF/4 speed) and really, really enjoyed it, and I always liked the pre-bloat first gen Mustangs. This would be my 1st antique car, oldest up to this point is an '85 MR2. Intention would be just a cruiser, something to rumble along driving at 4/10ths. Way down the line I'd consider resto-modding it with a Coyote 5.0/Tremec, improved suspension, brakes, etc., but 1st 5 years or so would just be fun old car to drive around. Thoughts?

Welded the front suspension in for a neighbor who is putting a 2014 Coyote engine into one of these. That is going to be quite the beast. Not a trivial swap, but impressive to look at; the engine bay is FULL. Shock towers go away and A-arm suspension needs to be installed. Pretty much a new tunnel by the time you are done making room for the gearbox..

In reply to NOHOME:

I was gonna say, I'd be shocked if a DOHC V8 fit between those shock towers.

I actually did a search last night for a possible rally cross candidate. There are a number of '65-'66 project coupes out there for under $2500.

Make sure that they check out the cowl vents as well (if your feet get wet while it's raining) for rust. Fixable, but a PITA to do so.

if you want it, do it... don't think about it- just find the nicest one you can afford and get it... only then should you worry about what you want to do with it.

I owned and loved '65 Fastback for 17 years, it was my first car in fact; and the first car I ever built from the ground up. I loved the way it looked, but no matter what I did I hated how it drove. I still think about getting another, but if I did I'd start with a shell and delete pretty much everything else except the beautiful exterior.

There are a ton of parts available for them, but most fit really poorly, especially aftermarket sheet metal. Common rust areas include the aforementioned cowl, front bottom corners of the doors, drop offs in the trunk/bottom of rear quarters and floor pans.

Oh, and even basket case fastbacks go for stupid money these days, coupes not so much.