Learn me RWD Corolla - Paging oldeskewltoy

I have my eye on a 1980 Corolla as possible replacement of 318is (looking to get into something . . . different).

I know the 3tc is a monster with a turbo. What about handling powers?

What else do I need to look out for?

Rust...nothing else that I can think of.

Change out the mechanical fan for electric for a big boost in reliability and engine response and a little power gain.

Most of the suspension will interchange with AE86, so lots of after-market support.

Let me know if you want some rear springs. I ended up with more than I need.

My first car was an 82. It went through starters like breath mints. The auto trans made it through 245k before needing a rebuild. It was rusting out around the trunk seal and the bottom edges of the door windows, that was in the mid nineties. Topped out at about 95 wide ass open.

I remember handling being decent, but I really didn't know squat at the time.

both of my '80's and my '81 went through starters as well.

other than that, i couldn't break 'em. and i tried. i mean i went down the highway in 2nd gear with the pedal to the mat for as long as my ears could take it. countless clutch drops from redline ( mostly forward, some reverse). lots of time trying to see how airborne i could get. you know now that i think about it, they'd make one hell of a rally car.

Strike_Zero wrote: I have my eye on a 1980 Corolla as possible replacement of 318is (looking to get into something . . . different). I know the 3tc is a monster with a turbo. What about handling powers? What else do I need to look out for?

biggest negative to 3TC power... is steering.....

The 3TC powered cars use a worm and roller steering... very slow and not very precise....

The 4AC powered cars(in USA only 1983) use rack and pinion steering. Easy to mod car to swap in rack and pinion... if you swap engine... less easy if you keep the "T" powerplant.

Biggest things to look for... rust... Corollas are a lot like old Porsches that way

Handling.... MOST of the AE86 bits will fit your car... front suspension mounts are NOT AE86 pattern, but T3 does make adjustable camber tops for this car.

In reply to oldeskewltoy:

If I pick it up, it will be a potential challenge contender.

I would love throw in a GM 60* V6 (would be a great time for steering swap) but I would have to farm out the welding of brackets and such (hard to keep it under challenge budget).

Why, I just happen to know a redneck with a welder in your neck of the woods. If this is a liftback, let me know if you decide to pass...

"Why doth thou tempt me . . ."

I'm awaiting a return call from the seller.

Which is lighter... GM V6... or the Ford/Cologne V6?

Challenge... I think you want ubber reliability if you can get it...

to get rack in... ideal way find an AE86 cross member - direct bolt in. Also can find 1983 E7(any of the 6 body styles) @ boneyard and get that cross member. IF you get the cross member you might just grab the rack as well.... and grab the column too... Worm and roller column has no bearing (@ firewall) since it slips into steering box(worm and roller), while rack based column does have bearing.

E7 brakes are soild rotor.... AE86 uses vented rotors... if you have welder... have him weld up front brake backing plate mounting holes in strut/spindle assembly, and then drill new holes to mount AE86 brake backing plates. If you swap strut/spindle assemblies from an AE86 you will get positive camber.... by welding up the E7 spindles and redrilling them to AE86 backing plates... you keep standard camber, AND you get to use AE86 pads and rotors

I'm not sure which is lighter. But I do have a GM T-5 in the garage from another project.

I may have boneyard hunt as there are no rwd Corollas in the local PAP yard.

I think the gm is lighter. You can get a 3400 or 3500 with aluminum heads that weighs very little. Plus there is actually a community for that motor series. Good luck with that on the Ford.

belteshazzar wrote: other than that, i couldn't break 'em. and i tried. i mean i went down the highway in 2nd gear with the pedal to the mat for as long as my ears could take it. countless clutch drops from redline ( mostly forward, some reverse).

Just curious, any particular reason for trying to break them?

i sort of hated them at the time (early 90's). at least at first. i was resentful that it was all i could afford. then after awhile they kinda grew on me. what else could you buy for $500 that could take so much punishment without any consequences?

I wish they were still $500 (w/o being close to going back to the earth or a rolling death trap).

You near Tacoma???

$200

http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31984

As others have said - rust, steering and brakes are the usual suspects. I raced a '74 with a 2TC for about 8 years in ITC. Twice SW Div. champ - about 55-60 races and never a DNF. Dead nuts reliable. Strengths were HP and reliability; weaknesses were leaf-sprung rear end (I think the 80's were arms/coils) and solid rotor front discs all of about 7" in diameter. Motor is virtually indestructible.

Strike_Zero wrote: I wish they were still $500 (w/o being close to going back to the earth or a rolling death trap).

I gave 500 for my first one (80 5sp wagon), 1200 for my second (mint 81 auto wagon), 750 for my third one (utterly perfect 80 5sp hatchback, and not the ugly version either) and 500 for my fourth (86 ae86 gt-s with some rear quarter damage). The good ol days.....

If I remember correctly from my hachi days, factory Toyota starters are supposed to last significantly longer than any aftermarket one. Same with alternators and plug wires.

oldeskewltoy wrote: You near Tacoma??? $200 http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31984

If I was on that side of the world . . . I would snap that up quick.

East coaster . . . RWD Corollas are scarce. The available ones have a drift tariff of ~$2k

belteshazzar wrote:

Strike_Zero wrote: I wish they were still $500 (w/o being close to going back to the earth or a rolling death trap).

I gave 500 for my first one (80 5sp wagon), 1200 for my second (mint 81 auto wagon), 750 for my third one (utterly perfect 80 5sp hatchback, and not the ugly version either) and 500 for my fourth (86 ae86 gt-s with some rear quarter damage). The good ol days.....

I've received mixed reports about the Corolla in question and no confirmed price (somewhere between 600-1000). I'm going to try the seller again in the morning.

Well the first part is easy

Or should I use this $200 complete drivetrain

Strike_Zero wrote: Or should I use this $200 complete drivetrain

Just not sure it'll fit in between the strut towers......

It's a couple inches wider than 1uz. It should fit with room to spare . . . at least that's my hope