Learn my friend second-gen MR2

In reply to Swank Force One:

Oh word, good call. I'll look for some once I am approved on MR2OC

Oh, and dont forget to gut that mother-berkleyer! Add lightness!!!!!!

In reply to carbon:

Gut the car? Lol maybe...not.

I think I found a source for my high idling, intake hose isn't strapped onto TB right. I'll do that tomorrow. If that doesn't work, then Imma hit this up

http://www.mr2.com/forums/non-turbo-engine-talk-modifications-swaps/Toyota-MR2-93450-how-fix-your-high-idle.html

Btw carbon, do you/have you had an MR2?

Yes I've got an mr2 (see my build titled "mr2 spyder commute attack car).

In reply to carbon:

Just found it. Awesome build!

Thanks, enjoy your 2!

General comments on early vs. late Mk 2s: Early had a reputation for snap oversteer - but many like the nimbleness and responsiveness, so it may just be a case of some people not liking the on-the-edge feel, and aren't capable of dealing with it. Car and Driver destroyed an early Turbo by being idiots in a road test and blamed the car. Anyhow, the later cars had 15 inch wheels, a bigger difference between front and rear tire section widths, revised rear suspension pickup points (and maybe spring rates) that lessened toe steer and camber change in roll. So you can do very well with an early one by limiting body roll with springs (already done), sway bars, and good, sticky tires, and by altering the alignment. A lot of people have won a lot of trophies at nationals in stock with early Mk. 2s, so I certainly wouldn't be afraid of it. With the coilovers you're going to be in a class where you won't be competitive unless you throw a lot of money and work at the car, so don't worry about it - just learn to drive it and enjoy it, and enjoy doing the mods you want just for the sake of making improvements, not necessarily to win. You'll have a ball, guaranteed.

First off, congrats on the purchase. These are great cars and I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Next, the front ride height looks too low. The front roll center needs to be higher in the front than the rear and you need to get extra weight on the fronts. If you look at a stock MR2, they ride about an inch higher in the front. A lot of guys set their coilovers up flat, and that makes them MORE prone to oversteer.

It might be a good idea to get it on some scales and corner balance it. Alternatively, sell those coilovers to the kids on MR2OC and get some Konis and H&Rs and be done with it.

What's that stalk hanging off the left side of the column? That's an aftermarket bonus. ;)

To address dropping the engine. put the front wheels on 4" high plank and get the rear up on jackstands so you have room to work. Once it is time to drop the engine, lower the engine onto a rubbermaid container lid then hook a chain up to your engine crane, bolted to the rear tow hooks and hoist the car as high as you want. You can slide the engine right out from under it.

Like this:

Get the bronze shifter bushings from 2s R us. Really makes a difference

In reply to Jim Pettengill:

Thanks Jim, yes I am definitely enjoying the car right now. I am also avidly reading up on it, as I found out it has adjustable caster & camber - awesome! Reading up on threads concerning problems such as high idle

Can you specify what years the late Mk2s are? I am looking to buy Turbo brakes in the near future.

In reply to Tyler H:

Oh word. I actually like the TEINs right now, but they are stiff as hell. Once I have access to jack stands, since I'm not at home, I will see if I can adjust the height to the specifics you mentioned.

Hopefully I won't have to drop the engine during my ownership. That picture is intense.

In reply to Sal_the_man:

Hmm I'll look into it. Shifter bushings on this are nice for now

Inspiration for you: my ES MR2 in action this weekend.

I have a set of alloys from my '91 turbo that I'd give to someone for free. They are the stock 14" versions with old Victoracers from '97 still mounted. I won't ship, but if anyone is coming through Huntsville, they can have them.

Late Mk. 2s would be 1993 and newer.

In reply to Will:

Dang man, you were flying. Ugh, looks so fun!

In reply to racerdave600:

Alabama...so far...-reach-

In reply to Jim Pettengill:

Thanks, I'll look around then

-sigh- and now the fun begins.

Car stalled on me twice, second time left me stranded just now. It will turn over but it won't start. I think PO said he replaced ignition ish, so going to go with coil packs IIRC that's what he said

So calling out to my Mr2 friends here.

I shorted E1 & TE1, and got code 14 from the BGB which is the igniter & ignition coil & or the circuit. The PO had the ignition coil and plugs replaced. Should I replace the coil?

If that doesn't work then the igniter. If not that, then the circuit is bad?

It's not uncommon for ignitors to go out on these motors.

Not the same motor, but my experience with Toyota ignitors supports that. Not sure about the 5SFE, but my 4AGE's ignitor was EXPENSIVE brand new (oem). As in $400. I'd suggest finding one out of a JY or maybe go aftermarket if it's available.

I probably have a few extras still laying around from my Celicas. Pull the number off the ignitor, and i'll see if i have some.

Yeah it's 300 at autozone, and I would get it tomorrow. Don't want to spend time at a JY, nor do I have the time

Swank Force - okay I'll pull it off later today

I mean, I can't see any wires for the ignition circuit that have to be grounded. All of them are on the harness, yes? Ignition coil is brand new but the igniter looks old.

Did a spark test, I disconnected the high tension cord from the spark plug and there was no spark