I am looking at two nearly cars, both Black on Black 2008 Mazda5 Touring's with identical options:
Car A is at a new car dealer for $11,997 and has 73,303 miles with a squeaky clean Carfax showing dealer services and 1 owner.
Car B is at a typical used car lot for $6,900 and has 130,791 miles with an accident in 09.
That's $5,907 cheaper for 57K additional miles.
A or B?
berkeley that accident. Mileage i can deal with. A wrecked car i will not.
Car A. Always start with the best example you can find.
In reply to mndsm:
I figured that since the accident was when it was new and 115K miles ago, that it must have been done right.
mndsm wrote: berkeley that accident. Mileage i can deal with. A wrecked car i will not.
Agreed. But without the accident, it's a harder call. Depends on your willingness and ability to deal with issues. For a DD that I have to rely on, I want lower miles. For a toy or extra car, I'm willing to take a chance on a higher-mileage example.
Javelin wrote: In reply to mndsm: I figured that since the accident was when it was new and 115K miles ago, that it must have been done right.
You have a very valid point in that. My only worry is if and when the failures happen. Swmbo 2.0s turd of a cobalt left a bad taste in my mouth.
For me, those are almost equal values. If the accident was when it was newer, you're right in that any issues with it likely would have surfaced long ago. Plus, a car of that age and mileage I don't think an accident changes its' value all that much.
Sorry to sit on the fence, but I think they're kinda equal. If it were me, I'd buy the one that I could talk the dealer down more.
It's been my experience with cars, in general, that the little things start going bad around 100K to 120K miles. Then it's usually one little thing that quits working after another for the next few years. Which is why my dad hasn't kept a single car past 100K for more than forty years, not worth the irritation.
I'd try to get A out the door for $10,500. How clean and nice is car B? if its not perfect, (look past the detailing job) it probably not worth it, unless you can knock some more off the price. Sadly in the end you'll have the same difference and same question. Will either give you any sort of warranty? If new car won't move much on the price, I'd ask for at least a 1yr/12k warr.
I say go with car A if you can't find a lower mileage example.
Plot twist!
Contacted dealer of Car A, got told to "WAIT A SEC" on live chat because they were with a customer already. Got transferred to salesman #2 who was very pushy and could only cut $1000 off. No warranty and $150 in bogus fees. They are 111 miles North.
Contacted dealer of Car B, they were apologetic at not getting with me sooner and emailed a Carfax. No warranty, minimal pressure, told "cash talks". They are 52 miles South.
Mr_Clutch42 wrote: I say go with car A if you can't find a lower mileage example.
The one I posted last week with 44K miles was an absolute disaster! 4 mismatched bald tires, tons of dings and scrapes down through the paint, filthy interior, and nasty grooves in the brakes.
What was the accident? That's pretty significant on which I would choose. Some accidents don't bother me, others do.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Doesn't say. It's on the Carfax in 6/09. Just says accident reported.
I'd sell you mine for that, but it isn't at all what you want lol.
Number A is where I would be looking.
Car A all the way but at a cheaper price. Too bad it's at a dealer because they probably gave some poor bastard $7K on a trade in for it. Car B has too much mileage for a DD. You might potentially end up paying the difference in repairs over the next few years along with all the headaches that come with them.
In reply to Javelin: Yikes, that owner didn't care about their car.
Mr_Clutch42 wrote: In reply to Javelin: Yikes, that owner didn't care about their car.
Look for yourself! https://www.tred.com/buy/JM1CR2W39A0379596
Feedyurhed wrote: Car A all the way but at a cheaper price. Too bad it's at a dealer because they probably gave some poor bastard $7K on a trade in for it. Car B has too much mileage for a DD. You might potentially end up paying the difference in repairs over the next few years along with all the headaches that come with them.
I bought the Vue with exactly 100K miles from the original owner with a massive folder of every receipt for every service and repair, and the 26K miles I put on it cost me over $4000 in repairs. So I really know what it's like to be nickel and dimed to death, but I also feel that the mileage doesn't have a lot to do with it. My 225K mile RX-7 made it to 250K on nothing, same story with my 120K mile P71 (which turned over 200K before I lost track of it).
I'd probably go after option B so long as it presented well and you could get OTD for $6k. 80k vs 130k doesn't really give me the warm & fuzzies in either case, they'll both probably need the same E36 M3.
In reply to WOW Really Paul?:
I just remembered that I took my 06 Mazda5 from 79K to 100K with just consumables. Maybe the 73K one is the way to go...
i'd go the lower miles one. the avalanche has soured me and that's why i want to shop a new new truck in the next few months. i bought it with 110k, and at 156k now it's cost me over $4000 in repairs and still vibrates over 55, has a clunk probably from the transfer case, and i'm not sure if the front diff is any good. at this point it's trade it in and lose my behind, or pay it off and let it hang around as backup since i'm so deep i need to get miles out of it to come anywhere near breaking even.
Another consideration is resale, the Carfax with a hit, will definitely be worth less when you sell it.
I don't sell my DD's, they only get replaced via totaling. 
Surprisingly though, the cosmetically rough blue one is in the lead. Car A is just way too overpriced. The blue one (Car C?) is 2 years newer with 30K less miles, and is $1350 cheaper.
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