Miata Fiberglass Hardtop Shells?

I need to get a new top for my `90 Miata track project at some point and was thinking about getting something like this:

http://treasurecoastmiata.com/i-11670564-new-light-weight-miata-hard-top.html

Way I see it, I'd be spending $150+ minimum on a new soft top and would rather just put that money towards a hard top. I like the idea of getting rid of the relatively heavy soft top parts too, and the low weight of a fiberglass shell like this is appealing. I'd probably put in a lexan window, which should cost about $50-80. Another bonus - it would make the roll-bar fabrication I'm doing now much easier if I didn't have the soft top part to mess with.

Ideally, I'd like to get it water-tight, but it doesn't need to be easily removable, so I could bolt it in. I also have some spare soft top latches that I might be able to use in the front.

Any of you guys have any experience with these? How tough is it going to be to get this water-tight with an extremely small budget?

I would love a hard top and it makes sense for the purpose of the car, but is it really worth the hassle, or should I just keep it simple/cheap and go with another soft top? (I don't need a competitive car, just hoping to have some fun with HPDE and maybe some TT events.)

We've got one that we're putting on a build at the shop. It may be possible to get it water-tight. You'll need the rubber seals around the windows, which you could probably get off the soft top. Rear window, obviously, and you'll have to find some some of Home Depot solution to seal to the bottom edge. You will also need to fabricate brackets.

Shipping is pretty high on these, but it's the same for 3 as it is for 1. Find some friends.

Thanks for the tips - taking the side-seals off the soft top is a good idea - I hadn't thought of that.

As far as the shipping goes, the GF is insisting that I accompany her to a Wedding in Miami in a few weeks, so I was thinking about just picking it up. At least something good might come from that weekend, since I'll have to miss the Mitty

I was at the Miata-palooza last weekend in Lakeland, Fl. and he had a couple of tops there. 12lbs for a hardtop is pretty appealing for my FProd car, and I could use the Mazda hardtop on my street car.

He had tops for $500, and it was another $100 for a lexan rear window with the pattern already stenciled on it. Just cut and install.

Are you thinking of picking it up with the Miata? Because it's not going to bolt on out of the box.

No. I wouldn't want to drive the Miata for 18 hrs on the highway with the 4.8 ring and pinion anyway - wouldn't be able to feel my arms or hear myself think by the end of the trip.

I have 2 of them. For a track car they're great. Takes alot of weight out of the top of the car. Build quality is good, but it is minimal to achieve the weight. Like Keith has said it is not a bolt on oem solution but is good for its purpose.

Here's a thread from Miata.net on their prototype "street" top, which looks like its going to come with seals and a window. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=493386

Might be more along the lines of what you are looking for. Also pricier.

I wonder if they've thought of building one to clear a Hard Dog Hardcore bar? It might look goofy, but it would be nice to have the option.

It's got more clearance inside than a stock top does, I don't think it would have any trouble clearing the Hard Core.

Any idea about how much additional clearance? Even a ball-park figure would be useful.

I don't think it's going to be a single number, it depends on where. It's only the outer skin, so figure maybe 1/2" around the top.

My factory hardtop cleared my Hard Dog Hardcore bar just fine so this should have no problems clearing one too.

Hello, 1st post out here! This is Wes at Treasure Coast Miata. We have been slooooowly working on the Street version of the LW HT. The side window seals are working good the rear windshield assembly seals and trim is all pretty much worked out through several iterations. The trickiest part is the elimination of the Frankenstein bolt and heavy OEM rear deck sealing system. The OEM system is actually quite involved, keeping the top elevated off the body to prevent squeaks and still have a road worthy seal. Were taking a different approach with the seals and so far using just "B" pillar mounting. We still want to do one more or two tops before releasing to the public.

You can always contact us at TreasureCoastMiata@att.net with questions.

Also for you light weight fanatics out there, were ready to announce a 7 lb MazdaSpeed rear trunk lid/spoiler is now available.

Next project is the rear license plate panel for the NA, we have created a prototype and are doing the 2nd iteration.

AND we are working on a mold for a LW HT for the NC car!

TCM, you informed me recently that we DO need to come up with a bracket to replace the frankenstein bolts or it will lift at speed. Have you changed your mind again?

In reply to Keith Tanner:

Keith, this is an area we have been developing on the street hard top. The one that experienced lift was a very early design with a mounting point on the LW hard top at the "B" pillar which is much different than current models (yours). The current design has not exhibited any lift issues. We are trying to avoid the Frankenstein bolt usage. On a race top, like the one we did on our STL/Chump car we did the 2 straps at the "B" pillar and added a strap in the middle from the lower rivet hole for the window to the adjacent rain rail stud just as a precaution.

Decided to pull the trigger and pick one up. FYI, you can just squeeze one of these in the back of a 1985 Celica GT for a 900 mile road trip if you get it in at just the right angle and remove some trim pieces. Ask me how I know

So far, there have been some pluses and some minuses. I'll do a full write-up on my build thread after I get it all put together. Bottom line right now though, unless your labor/time is really cheap/worthless, or you really want to shave a few pounds out of your hardtop, you're probably better off with an OEM hardtop. It is pretty light though.

In reply to JohnyHachi6:

Johny, as you say the biggest reason for these tops is the weight savings. It is hard to beat the OEM engineering when it comes to building one of these. That comes at a price and it is mainly all weight. We have done several prototype tops now and feel the side window seals using the convertible top brackets and rubber seals is an easy to install and effective solution. The window we sell precut and marked for the drill spots. The rear window seals are simple and effective also. The more difficult part to develop was the rear deck seal and rear mounting. We have now come up with a stick on rear seal to seal the top and rear deck and are using a turnbuckle arraingment to load the top/seal to the rear deck. We have several cars road testing this set up and no complaints. You of course had to go through all your own development as you just wanted the top only. We plan on selling the street version as a "kit" at $775 + shipping so the DIY'ers can save some money. Last obstacles to over come is finding a good source for the shipping boxes 60" X 50" X 16" and also the rear seal source in volume. We do have one complete top in the shop available now in black gel coat.