So I picked up a 1995 M-Edition car the other day and crawling around under it I noticed the passenger rear bolt of the front subframe was loose, and sure enough the bolt jangles around and spins freely so I assume the captive nut broke free. I haven't gone pulling the interior apart yet but is there any access to the top of that bolt or is this a cutting sheet metal to fix kind of deal??
(Apologies for the awful picture I can take a better one tonight)
On the NB it's a cutting sheet metal fix. Sorry to say. One of the na guys will chime in but I'm pretty sure it's the same
My workshop manual shows the captive nut locations, but gives no indication if there is an access on the upper side of the hollow "frame" section that appears to be there on the diagram.
And if your not familiar with how that sub-frame is attached, there is a second bolt above the rear mounting point of the A-arm.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
It's the same tub, just a few details different.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
The other three bolts and 4 nuts are present and tight so I've got that going for me at least. I'll poke around more tonight, does it give a general location of where that access hole might be?
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Hopefully a little drill or holesaw action will be enough to get something in there to hold the nut and spin it down
In reply to Doubleoh9 :
No, it shows dimensions for all the holes from the bottom side of the car. No points of reference inside. I'd try setting something next to the car to use as a reference. Measure to that above and below the rocker to get a rough idea where. It sounds like the carpet will have to come out, so it might make it apparent where the captive nut is located. Both sides are symmetrical, so you might be able to run a long drill bit up through the driver's side bolt hole, right through the floor and then mirror that point for the passenger side cut. First, I'd see if you can identify a detail in the floor stamping from underneath, and try to find that same spot in the interior, then cut.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
That makes a lot of sense thank you. I was thinking to go in from the side but top down is a much better idea!
In reply to Doubleoh9 :
I never thought about putting an access hole in the side. That might be easier to cut out and weld, versus removing a bunch of the interior to get at it.
From the top, you would have to pull the carpet. To pull the carpet you have to pull the dash and the HVAC stack to free the carpet. Cause someone in Japan has a mean sense of humor. Pic shows how the HVAC sits on top of the carpet.
Is this the bolt you speak of? (Ignore the tubular V8 swap crossmember)
If I were dealing with this thing spinning, I would slice the head off the bolt, remove the k-member and then use a hole-saw to cut into the bolt hole-pod going down over the bolt. That would free up a circular chunk of tin with the bolt maybe semi-attached. I would then fab up a similar chunk of round steel, weld the bolt in place and weld the circle back into the pod. If not rusted you could just weld in the chunk you cut out,
I am assuming you have a welder at your disposal.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
I was initially thinking just cut a small access hole in the side next to it to get a tool in there to hold the captive nut remains to remove the bolt then fish it out and replace it with a bolt stuck through as a stud.
In reply to NOHOME :
Ooof I did not realize the carpet was buried so deep under there. Messing with old Chevy trucks has spoiled me for easy interior and carpet installation. I do not have easy access to a welder but that is the bolt
Doubleoh9 said:In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
I was initially thinking just cut a small access hole in the side next to it to get a tool in there to hold the captive nut remains to remove the bolt then fish it out and replace it with a bolt stuck through as a stud.
Almost exactly what I did as a repair for one of the rear crossmember bolts on my baja. That'll work fine in that location assuming you have the room
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