Following the article in the mag I have a question. I've used Kendall 20-50 in the past in a new engine, then after 1000 miles I'd switch over to Mobil 1. I am having trouble finding Kendall. Did I miss something? Did they get bought by someone?
What's a good go to for break in? Okay to go to synthetic from the start?
What do you recommend now? Some have suggested PennGrade.
Kendall was bought by Brad Penn which is now called Penngrade.
It's good stuff, use it. They do make a specific break-in oil, too.
Knurled. said:Kendall was bought by Brad Penn which is now called Penngrade.
It's good stuff, use it. They do make a specific break-in oil, too.
Okay. So that's what I thought.
Go synthetic?
In reply to vwcorvette :
Whatever they do. I honestly don't remember if the break in oil is synthetic or not. For certain the oil we would use (brad Penn) after breakin was synthetic, and we tailored it to each individual engine's hot oil pressure - 10W30 for most engines but 20W50 was only for the ones that seemed to have low pressure at idle.
Disclaimer: I no longer work in that environment, but I was there for 15 years and did many a hot rod engine with Brad Penn with excellent results.
It's important to know what kind of engine it is. The only real necessity for a specific break-in oil is with flat-tappet camshafts where direct metal-to-metal friction is part of the wear-in process.
OEMs will build an engine, stuff it full of generic oil from the lowest bidder, and slap a 10 year warranty on it. I wouldn't stress too much about a break-in oil... specifically, not a 20w50. Thicker isn't better. Correct is better.
The more important part is oil change frequency. There is a high probability that machining shavings and latent sand from the casting process is hanging around. For that reason, I use parts-store cheap oil and change it frequently; 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000, then regular intervals. I wouldn't spend special money on expensive oil because I change it out a lot during break in.
In reply to Curtis :
That was the other part of the process. After about 15 minutes of run time, we'd cut the filter open. If it looked clean, we changed to the "regular" oil and called it good. If it had a bunch of fine grit/powder, we kept the break in oil in. If there was flak, we ran the engine another 15-20 minutes and cut the next filter open.
Thanks guys. I'll get some PennGrade 10w30 and try it.
Oh, engine is a 2.0 16v VW. Fresh bottom end balanced and lightened. Head from 1.8 16v.
I've only built a couple of engines, both flat tappet cam. I was probably being overly cautious, but I would break in the cam, shut down for a leak check, then go for a short run to seat the rings.
Next step would be an oil change.
vwcorvette said:Oh, engine is a 2.0 16v VW. Fresh bottom end balanced and lightened. Head from 1.8 16v.
I wouldn't be terribly concerned about the valvetrain. Yes it is "flat tappet" but you're not running 120 pounds on the seat, 360 over the nose, with 1.6:1 ratio rockers, and 19mm diameter lifters.
Hell, if it were mine, I'd use the cheapest gallon o' oil that the auto parts store had, run it in, cut the filter open, and if it's good then switch to the good stuff. If you have to tear into it, well you only wasted $10 in oil and a $5 filter.
The usual recommendation I read for breaking in non-OEM engines seems to be to use normal dino oil of the correct viscosity first to aid the break-in and then switch to synthetic one or two old changes in. OEMs often use synthetic type oils from the start these days, but they build engines to tolerances that most machine shops can't get to.
You guys waist a lot of money on oil/changes. Especially on OEM engines. Of course it is your money.
My practice has always been to run the factory oil until the first change. Usually around 8K. Then refill with quality synthetic and filter. Repeat.
Most of these have been OHC flat tappet engines.
One thing I am passionate about is to make sure that the oil is brought up to temps often.
I have followed this procedure for over 35 years.
In my ZX2SR I ran the same 5W30 grade oil for dd, track days, ice racing. 90F to -10F
At around 85K miles I did a curiosity check on valve clearances. No change.
So anyway that has been my experience, do as you wish.
You'll need to log in to post.
