plance1
plance1 Dork
8/27/14 8:21 p.m.

like me? Seriously, I see some rust developing on some parts under my 2002 Sport Trac, I can't imagine just coating the parts as is but isn't that the point of this type of paint? If I take a wire brush to them by the time I'm done doing so I wouldn't need to encapsulate anything. What words of wisdom do you have for me?

Ian F
Ian F UltimaDork
8/27/14 10:33 p.m.

Depends on how long you hope it to last. The correct POR-15 process is Marine Clean > Metal Ready > POR-15 paint > top coat.

mr2peak
mr2peak GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/27/14 11:10 p.m.

Don't let it dry in between coats, it will flake off after.

aircooled
aircooled UltimaDork
8/27/14 11:16 p.m.

You don't need to paint over it if its on the underside of the car (no sun exposure)

foxtrapper
foxtrapper UltimaDork
8/28/14 5:25 a.m.

You'll likely be far more pleased with the results of rustoleum rusty metal primer, thined about 50/50 with acetone. Much less prep work is required, it's quicker, cheaper and easier to apply than POR-15, and lasts longer.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 Dork
8/28/14 6:02 a.m.

I have never had an issue with properly applied por-15. Getting it clean, metal ready, and paint it. I have skipped the metal ready step with satisfactory results, and painted without spotlessly clean. I cannot, however, speak to the long term results of that. I can say without a topcoat on a uv succeptible area, it'll die in a couple of years.

noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand Dork
8/28/14 6:22 a.m.

Sounds good to me. I have a small bits of rust forming in spots on the underside of my Jetta...

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/28/14 7:30 a.m.

+1 for Rustoleum/Hammerite for this kind of use.

bigev007
bigev007 New Reader
8/28/14 7:58 a.m.

I'm looking at this type of use too. Just removed the carpet from the E36 because water is getting in at the base of the windshield. There's a small amount of rust on the floor in a couple places from the water and I'm looking at how to stop it/get rid of it.

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane GRM+ Memberand Reader
8/28/14 3:53 p.m.

Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...

Tom_Spangler
Tom_Spangler GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
8/28/14 4:20 p.m.
WonkoTheSane wrote: Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...

I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy SuperDork
8/28/14 4:24 p.m.

depending on what chemicals are in the pool... you might top coat the POR15 with their own (POR15's) gas tank sealant

Ian F
Ian F UltimaDork
8/28/14 4:36 p.m.
Tom_Spangler wrote:
WonkoTheSane wrote: Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.

We used a self-etching primer between the POR-15 and a rattle-can top coat. It may have been due to the type of top coat - the info is on the POR15 site.

kreb
kreb GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
8/28/14 5:25 p.m.

I've had good results with POR-15 - even when exposed to the sun, except one time when painting an old, rusty ladder rack. It was bubbling. Didn't get that classic almost-like-powdercoat look at all.

Does anyone know what might have Happened?

mr2peak
mr2peak GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
8/28/14 10:28 p.m.

When I did it, it was thick, sticky, and impossible to remove from skin. It's self-leveling and left a very slick shiny surface after. I personally wouldn't want to use it again, but YMMV

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane GRM+ Memberand Reader
8/29/14 6:53 a.m.
Ian F wrote:
Tom_Spangler wrote:
WonkoTheSane wrote: Hijack! What type of topcoat should I put on some Por15 bits that are going to be exposed to sun? These are pieces to the pool, not for car use...
I don't know that it matters all that much. I use whatever rattlecan I have handy, usually Rustoleum or Krylon.
We used a self-etching primer between the POR-15 and a rattle-can top coat. It may have been due to the type of top coat - the info is on the POR15 site.

Thanks gents.. Looks like the "secret" is the self-etching primer.

Kreb - Did you clean it off with brake cleaner or some other chemical like that? I've seen other paints fail because of residue left from the cleaner, and I've heard reports of Por failing the same way.

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