Starting a dodge after 2 years

We have been offered a free 1994 Grand Caravan SE, that hasn't been run in about 2yrs. Other than the oil change, gas drain, belts and brake flush is there anything I need to do so that I can get it on the road and start shaking it down? Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders, etc...

It was parked b/c the a/c went out( I live in the south ) and b/c it ran "funny" after it warmed up( bad HG, maybe?? ).

What should my checklist be for this car? Goal is to make it a daily and maybe get 2yrs out of it. I will need something bigger than my volvo wagon pretty soon.

If its a V6 you wont be getting the plugs out in the hurry, so just crank it on fogging oil with the ignition and fuel unplugged to try and get some oil to the rings. Also crank it with the ignition off til the oil light goes out to pump everything up again. If its a 4 banger you will want to do the timing belt.

You will want to drop the transmission pan and change the filter too, a lot of moisture may have built up depending on where in the South you are, water dissolves auto trans clutches and its heavier than oil so most of it will be in the bottom of the pan. A full fluid exchange after its up and wont hurt if you can stomach the cost of ATF 4.

I would use premium fuel to dilute what crap gas you cant get out, and a heavy dose of injector cleaner, gumout regane and techron concentrate are both good.

Also flush the coolant ASAP.

Its probably worth all of scrap value running or not, so unless its worth a ton to you, just put a booster on it, start it, and drive it till it dies then sell it for scrap or sell it ASAP.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: If its a V6 you wont be getting the plugs out in the hurry, so just crank it on fogging oil with the ignition and fuel unplugged to try and get some oil to the rings. Also crank it with the ignition off til the oil light goes out to pump everything up again. If its a 4 banger you will want to do the timing belt. You will want to drop the transmission pan and change the filter too, a lot of moisture may have built up depending on where in the South you are, water dissolves auto trans clutches and its heavier than oil so most of it will be in the bottom of the pan. A full fluid exchange after its up and wont hurt if you can stomach the cost of ATF 4. I would use premium fuel to dilute what crap gas you cant get out, and a heavy dose of injector cleaner, gumout regane and techron concentrate are both good. Also flush the coolant ASAP.

If the car has not been started for awhile, how do I get the fogging oil into the intake w/o starting the car or removing the plugs? It's an SE model, so it does have the V6. Everything that I just found online about fogging an engine relates to a running engine, not one being removed from "storage".

two years is not a long time for a car to sit these days. i'd check the oil, throw a battery in it, and turn the key.

AngryCorvair wrote: two years is not a long time for a car to sit these days. i'd check the oil, throw a battery in it, and turn the key.

+1 what AngryCorvair said

AngryCorvair wrote: two years is not a long time for a car to sit these days. i'd check the oil, throw a battery in it, and turn the key.

Once again, Angry and I are on the same page.

Which V6? It should be either the SOHC 6G72 Mitsu or the 3.3 Chrysler.

That's even better. I've been watching youtube vids on how to do spark plugs and it looks very tight. Its been several years since I've had that little room to work around under the hood. I'll have more info and maybe pics on weds when I got to look at it. Thanks again.

I'm missing my volvo already....

mrwillie wrote:

Kenny_McCormic wrote: If its a V6 you wont be getting the plugs out in the hurry, so just crank it on fogging oil with the ignition and fuel unplugged to try and get some oil to the rings. Also crank it with the ignition off til the oil light goes out to pump everything up again. If its a 4 banger you will want to do the timing belt. You will want to drop the transmission pan and change the filter too, a lot of moisture may have built up depending on where in the South you are, water dissolves auto trans clutches and its heavier than oil so most of it will be in the bottom of the pan. A full fluid exchange after its up and wont hurt if you can stomach the cost of ATF 4. I would use premium fuel to dilute what crap gas you cant get out, and a heavy dose of injector cleaner, gumout regane and techron concentrate are both good. Also flush the coolant ASAP.

If the car has not been started for awhile, how do I get the fogging oil into the intake w/o starting the car or removing the plugs? It's an SE model, so it does have the V6. Everything that I just found online about fogging an engine relates to a running engine, not one being removed from "storage".

Clip on the remote start switch you keep in your ignition timing kit, crank it that way(key off), fog. If you're that worried about it, the Chrysler van V6 is bulletproof. I watched my mom shoot at one, probably got about 10 oil changes with cheap stuff in 10 years of ownership, putting over 10k a year on it. Was sold running with over 200k on it.

I like the way you're talking. So, what are the weak spots in these years of vans? Its a 94 Grand Caravan SE and I'm not sure of the mileage yet. Non-working a/c( either no freon or some other issue ) and it "runs funny" after running for awhile.

Runs funny is probably a stupid sensor somewhere, a scan tool will be helpful.

IDK how different a 94 is from a 97, I'm assuming they're close. That I know of, the strut towers on the front are prone to rusting. Any other rust is pretty ignorable for a beater, these are a ladder chassis uni frame type construction. The trans is known to have issues, install a cooler. The rear heater pipes will rust out, the bypass job is easy. AC is probably a bad hose or oring somewhere, that or the evaporator core(don't even try, takes 2 days if you know what you're doing). The stock radiator is copper and rots out. IF it has auto level shocks, delete it with air shocks or standard shocks and leafs from a non autolevel van.

This is the only in house Chrysler product I ever recommend to people.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: Runs funny is probably a stupid sensor somewhere, a scan tool will be helpful. IDK how different a 94 is from a 97, I'm assuming they're close. That I know of, the strut towers on the front are prone to rusting. Any other rust is pretty ignorable for a beater, these are a ladder chassis uni frame type construction. The trans is known to have issues, install a cooler. The rear heater pipes will rust out, the bypass job is easy. AC is probably a bad hose or oring somewhere, that or the evaporator core(don't even try, takes 2 days if you know what you're doing). The stock radiator is copper and rots out. IF it has auto level shocks, delete it with air shocks or standard shocks and leafs from a non autolevel van. This is the only in house Chrysler product I ever recommend to people.

1) I'm either gonna grab the old tranny cooler off of the explorer or an older one I was gonna use for another project.

2) Is the a/c worth fixing at all if its not the evap core? Effort and price-wise, I mean. How hard to find/ expensive are the parts? Wife may have to drive this w/ the kids( all under 4 )

3) I didnt know that code readers for '94 cars( excluding nissan ) existed. I'm googling now, but do you have a rec. for a reasonably priced one?

Found info on the flash codes for the diag system...

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/index.html

Trying to find laptop software now. What are the forums I should hit for info outside of GRM?

Just as an update, I went by and looked at the van last night. She's in better shape than any free vehicle should be in. I can see what looks like sludge under the front cover, but we ran it awhile w/ marvel mystery oil and will prob pull off the oil pan and do a manual cleaning. It was tuned up( plugs, wires, belts, fluids, etc ) and driven for only a year b/4 it was parked so that gives me some piece of mind. Tranny fluid is still red and doesnt smell at all. Fuel pressure was right at 40PSI while running. Has what looks like a RMS leak( has a big glob of something hanging from where the block and tranny meets ).

So far, the checklist goes as follows: 1) Fix front valve cover leak then remove and replace the oil pan for cleaning and to fix leak. 2) Check brakes( no time last night ) 3) Flush coolant system 4) Flush power steering 5) Clean interior

Am I missing anything???

Also, the only code that I found was either "3" or "35". I was reading them by the flashes, and I'm not confident that I got them right. Still trying to find a OBD1 scanner to pull the codes w/? Its got the 3.3motor so no timing belt, but I realized that Im so used to not having a working odo I forgot to look at the mileage. Not sure what it is.

Thanks for the info. Pics coming soon.

I think 5 is the separator code. So, if my memory serves me, you have a code 3.

There is no code 3. They are all two digits and the only ones you're likely to get range from 11-55.

There aren't really any 'generic' code readers that will read it without optional equipment because it's pre-obd2 and requires 1 chrysler connector for the engine which is under the hood, and a separate smaller connector for transmission thats hanging near the steering column inside.

The weak spot is transmissions (4spd being 'worse'). Big cooler is a good idea and use the proper fluid in the 4spd at all times (the 3spd does not care what it runs on, some people use motor oil and hydraulic fluid).

The v6 engines themselves are unusually reliable, whether it's the mitsu 3.0 or the dodge 3.3/3.8. You never said which. The 3.0 does require a timing belt every once in a while.

Plugs on the 3.3/3.8 on 91-95 body style are not THAT hard. I have heard a lot of whining over the years about this. blah blah blah. If you really cant get your hand back there, go up from the bottom from behind the k-frame. That is how i do the 96-00 3.3/3.8 vans at work. The 01-06 or whatever i still do from the top. Honestly about the worst part of trying to do rear plugs on those early 90s 3.3s is the pointy sheetmetal screws sticking OUT of the firewall.

The evaporator is kind of a bitch. I just did one in my cousins driveway on his 94 and it took me every bit of the 6+ hours it books for in labor time (may have gone faster at a shop). The dashboard design is irritating when you start pulling it apart and see how it's bolted together. The part itself cost around $100 but including tax, gaskets, refrigerant and oil you'll be closer to 150 if not over. But if you do it yourself you'll definitely feel that you spent more in time and annoyance than you did in money.

put a battery in it and start it.. if it runs and moves under it's own power, then it's worth doing an oil change.. if not, haul it to the scrap yard..

AngryCorvair wrote: two years is not a long time for a car to sit these days. i'd check the oil, throw a battery in it, and turn the key.

Did this with my grandfathers Ford minivan. Ran like crap at first but then it settled down and ran fine.

@Vigo - It has the 3.3. And as of now, I'm looking at doing valve covers, oil pan gasket, tranny cooler and coolant flush. Then drive for a few weeks. We're needing a minivan around feb/ mar( family's growing ) and dont have the money to buy one right now. So it was perfect timing on this.

I have found the obd plug under the hood( thanks for the info on that ) and will look for the tranny plug connector.Also gonna look for a scanner under $100 bucks that will work. I've seen recommendations for used snap-ons and such on ebay, but thats not in the budget right now. Is there a good source for the ATF4 other than the dealership? Or is there a brand that I can find off of the shelf that will work?

Thanks again!!!

In reply to rebelgtp:

my '86 944 sat for four years. i put in a battery and started it up. it had 1/2-tank of old gas in it. i drove it to the gas station and filled it with 93 octane, and noticed an improvement in how it ran within a few miles. every time it got down to 1/2, i filled it with 93 again. after 3 tanks i decided not to do a tune-up because it was running sweet.

on a semi-unrelated note, it also had thumpy out-of-round-from-sitting tires. i aired them up to 55 psi and drove it for about 2 weeks. when the thump went away, i lowered them to 40 and drove it like that until i sold it 8 months later.

mrwillie wrote: @Vigo - It has the 3.3. And as of now, I'm looking at doing valve covers, oil pan gasket, tranny cooler and coolant flush. Then drive for a few weeks. We're needing a minivan around feb/ mar( family's growing ) and dont have the money to buy one right now. So it was perfect timing on this. I have found the obd plug under the hood( thanks for the info on that ) and will look for the tranny plug connector.Also gonna look for a scanner under $100 bucks that will work. I've seen recommendations for used snap-ons and such on ebay, but thats not in the budget right now. Is there a good source for the ATF4 other than the dealership? Or is there a brand that I can find off of the shelf that will work? Thanks again!!!

Wal Mart has the ATF+4.. i ran into an additive at NAPA that makes any atf into ATF+4, can't remember what it was called or how much it cost, but it was made by a name i knew and said it was warranty approved or some other such language on the label..

is that the era when the differential in the trans would just decide to puke the cross pin out one day without warning? if it is, then there is a kit that costs something like $10 that prevents it from happening..

@AngryCorvair -- Thanks for the tire tip. I was wondering about that, and hadnt heard about doing this before.

@NovaDerrik -- The wally-world fluid is correct?? Thats perfect!! Thanks!!

• Also, If I see sludge under the valve cover would u just run a HDEO oil for a few thousand miles, kreen, autorx or Marvel Mystery oil? I dont have pics yet, but I want to clean it in a way thats not too harsh and not too expensive.

novaderrik wrote: is that the era when the differential in the trans would just decide to puke the cross pin out one day without warning? if it is, then there is a kit that costs something like $10 that prevents it from happening..

I think that was a issue only with the 3 speed, and that only happens if you do burnouts or keep spinning the tires in snow.

Well, ANY of them will do it, be it 5spd manual, 3spd auto or 4spd auto. But as mentioned you have to do lots of one wheel peel for it to ever get to that point.

There are some $5 brackets (you need 2 thus $10) that keep the diff pin from flying out, but they dont prevent the actual wear on the pin in the first place if you do abuse it with one wheel peel, they just offset the eventual catastrophic failure by some unknown but possibly useful amount of time. The best enthusiast solution on something you planned to drive hard would be a $400 obx helical torque biasing diff which has no diff pin at all.. not that im recommending that for a 150hp minivan thats likely to stay stock.

Honestly, i wouldnt worry about the diff pin thing at all.

all the parts stores (and walmart) carry some form of atf+4. It doesnt have to be chrysler fluid, it's just a 'standard' like mercon v or dexron 6 etc.