The engine mounts in my B16-swapped CRX are getting to the end of their life.
It's an antique now, and I can feel the whole tub flexing during cornering or even jacking the car up.
There's almost 300# of aluminum and steel sitting right there in the engine bay.
The current mounts are aluminum machined parts with urethane inserts. I'm thinking about switching to solid aluminum inserts. Has anyone hard-mounted a four-cylinder engine in a FWD car? What was it like? Is it a free crossmember?
I've never messed with any Honda drivetrain, but the engineer in my seriously wonders if you wouldn't end up ripping the bolts out of the block.
I ran a billet front mount on my Mk2 Jetta and the vibrations at idle were insane. You could hear every panel in the car rattle. Throttle response was great though!
icaneat50eggs wrote: I've never messed with any Honda drivetrain, but the engineer in my seriously wonders if you wouldn't end up ripping the bolts out of the block.
race cars do it all the time... seems like there is always someone on the Chumpcar and 24 Hours of Lemons forums asking about cheap/easy solid mounts for their fwd race cars. the forgiving rubber mounts are put there as a consideration to the average consumer that doesn't like feeling when every cylinder fires for some stupid reason..
Friend of mine ran solid mounts on a 350hp Turbo D16 in one of his EK hatchbacks after it tore a stock one apart. It shook like crazy at idle, made worse by the huge cam that made it lope.
Solid metal mounts will turn your car into a rolling paint shaker, you want at least a little soft material in there. I don't think anyone has ever said that solid high-durometer urethane mounts aren't hard enough, but I'd recommend trying 3M windo-weld first, that's what I'm using. Vibration's not too bad with it.
Track, sure. For the street, insane.
Maybe compromise and replace only the torque-carrying mounts.
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