My sister calls me earlier and says her '06 Legacy(2.5 N/A Auto Trans) quit while going thru a bank drive thru. hauled it home timing belt is in tact, accessories are turning timing belt is not... what's a reasonable guess what's wrong before I tear into it tomorrow? crank pulley keyway sheared, tensioner bad? what's the odds the engine is unscathed?
Crank isn't turning with a wrench on the bolt?
Not good. Usually it isn't the belt that snaps, but rather the tensioner or idler that gives up the ghost.
Hopefully just some bent valves? 
Belt sheared teeth is my guess. Unless the engine stopped at one very lucky position, it's likely time to pull the engine because you've got bent valves.
Put a fresh belt on, crank it over and cross your fingers that it starts and idles like it's supposed to.
Luckily, pulling the engine is pretty easy on a non-turbo car.
the crank is turning the accessory drives but the timing belt isn't turning. I'm thinking either a crank pulley keyway is sheared, Timing belt stripped, tensioner is DOA.
Trying to assess what to expect tomorrow
FWIW both cams timing marks are ~10 o'clock.
I had a timing belt fail like that once...sheared a few "teeth" off of the belt at the crank pulley.
The mark on the web or a little paint daub on the edge of the wheel?
on the front face of the gears
Don't give up hope. I had two different Subaru's with failed timing belt or gear.
Web on a new belt and fire it back up! How lucky do you feel? Hey, I'm 2 for 2. The fact that this was a low speed failure leads me to believe you may get lucky.
Any specific strange noises before it quit? Maybe it's not the timing gear at all.
Ojala wrote: Not good. Usually it isn't the belt that snaps, but rather the tensioner or idler that gives up the ghost.
This, bearing locks up takes out belt with it. How many miles on it? I think Subaru is 105k interval and that's really pushing the limits of those bearings. I helped change one once at 120k, the idler was quite rough!
ClemSparks wrote: I had a timing belt fail like that once...sheared a few "teeth" off of the belt at the crank pulley.
Did it cause any damage?
In reply to Kenny_McCormic: Current mileage is 150,000
Go buy/beg/borrow/steal a leakdown tester and see if the valves are intact.
In reply to dansxr2:
The line is for timing and the arrow on the web is for lining up for valve lash. If the arrow is lined up with the mark then #1 is at tdc. At this point the arrow/triangle on the cam gear should be at 12 o clock. If not: then not good!
And Sr fornetti is right. Don't give up hope! It very well could be fine. Stranger things have happened.
They seldom bend valves. Be very careful with the timing marks, since Subaru doesn't always install the belt at TDC.
In reply to Streetwiseguy:
What he said. Timing belt is installed/replaced at 90 deg from tdc.
In reply to Ojala:
Pic please ?
This is if you are replacing the timing belt. Rotate the crank sprocket till the arrow points up at the timing mark and the arrows on the cam wheels also point up at the timing marks on the case. This puts you at tdc, but if you release the tension and take off the belt the driver side cam will spin. So you rotate the crank sprocket another 90 degrees so that the arrow on the crank sprocket is at 3 o clock. This should rotate the cam wheels 45 degrees(it's a 2to1 ratio) and leave the line on the cam wheels pointing to the timing mark. It should be stable at this point and allow you to take tension off the belt and replace it without fear of losing timing. You could spin the cams if you wanted to since all of the pistons will be down from tdc and there shouldn't be any interference since this is a 4cyl flat plane crank. If anyone else has any ideas or comments or I made any mistakes please chime in!
I really need to make an imgur or some kind of account for pictures.
Here is what I found, what's the chance it'll be okay? ordered a timing kit and waterpump. Fingers crossed Lol
Hmm... lots of teeth missing there, but if this was a low or idle speed failure I think you're OK.
I'd web the new belt on and fire it up before I pulled the water pump and made all that mess. If it idles and seems to run OK in the garage (no driving necessary) I'd say you are golden.
Is a waterpump hard to swap? I just figured I'd toss it on while already to it.
In reply to dansxr2:
Not hard if you are replacing the timing belt, it runs off the crank. Pump rarely goes bad but the Mickey Mouse seal going bad is fairly common.
I've always been told to never reuse a timing belt, so I'd buy two, one for testing one for once you've decided its worth a full timing job.
You'll need to log in to post.
