Is it magnified by brake issues, like warped rotors or other?
Is it magnified by brake issues, like warped rotors or other?
Have you checked the radius rod bushings? These are notorious wear points on the twin-I beam setup ("Look Ma! All the advantages of a swing axle Corvair except on the front of the truck!") and can lead to all sorts of goofy wear pattern issues.
As many have said, it sounds like normal wear from a traction type tire.
SVreX wrote: Is it magnified by brake issues, like warped rotors or other?
no, it has nothing to do with worn components or other brake issues.
when you hit the brakes, the tire slows down at the road and the tread block distorts as the forces go from the road back through the tire and wheel and up to the suspension to the body. from the POV of the hub, each tread block is distorted rearward at the road surface because of the braking forces being applied. as the front edge of the tread block is shoved rearward, the rear edge of the tread block lifts up from the road.
I'm not an expert, but if you're having issues with the tire itself, why not try a different brand/model of tire?
AngryCorvair wrote:SVreX wrote: Is it magnified by brake issues, like warped rotors or other?no, it has nothing to do with worn components or other brake issues. when you hit the brakes, the tire slows down at the road and the tread block distorts as the forces go from the road back through the tire and wheel and up to the suspension to the body. from the POV of the hub, each tread block is distorted rearward at the road surface because of the braking forces being applied. as the front edge of the tread block is shoved rearward, the rear edge of the tread block lifts up from the road.
So, a heavier vehicle, plus deeper than regular highway tread blocks = Worn tires on braking. That actually makes some sense.
SVreX wrote: So, a heavier vehicle, plus deeper than regular highway tread blocks = Worn tires on braking. That actually makes some sense.
That's what I'm here for. 
My Baja Claws do the same thing on my 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel. Every single nut, bolt, bearing, shock, spring, bar, rotor, caliper, pad,etc in the front end is new in the last 35k miles and I switched it to crossover (inverted T) steering, which made a huge difference in how well it goes down the road.
I rotate the tires every oil change as previously suggested, seems to take care of it good enough, considering Baja Claws are not really made for the weight of a Cummins Diesel.
I have a brand new 2013 f250 super duty extended cab same issue rear wears normal and the front is doing the same nothing has been touched on the truck I drove it off the lot the end of January I now have 28,000 miles and the tires started this about 5000 miles ago going back to the dealer this week to see what they say
I just had cooper atp's put on my ford explorer sport trac. I had the torsion bars twisted to raise the truck in the front an 1 1/2". I also had new rancho shocks installed. In the course of doing this, I learned that the camber on the truck is not adjustable. So just like a couple other people noted, I had to get camber bolts which would allow for adjustment. Check to see if you have the same issue.
We see that kind of tire wear on basically every truck.
It's because of braking loads on the front wheels. Trucks are especially susceptible because they put more braking loads on the front, combined with weight transfer and the way truck tires tend to have taller lugs that fold under more easily.
Rotate the tires front to back every 5000 miles or every oil change whatever comes first. You will probably have to cross-rotate to the front every other rotation because the fronts wear like this faster than they can smooth out on the back.
We actually use this wear as a gauge for when tire rotation is recommended more so than tread depth checking. On duallies with aluminum wheels (where you can't rotate) we just switch the fronts side to side, which isn't ideal but it's better than doing nothing.
I find it funny that they're trying to sell you things. That means that they either have no idea what is going on, or they want to sell unnecessary items. The problem with that is now they sold you a Solution, which will lead to an Unhappy Customer when said Solution turns out to be a Homeopathic Solution - it doesn't do anything but it sure does cost a lot.
we just switch the fronts side to side, which isn't ideal but it's better than doing nothing.
Actually, i think this is part of THE ideal solution.
Basically, i dont believe in criss cross or roundy round or musical tire rotations or whatever the hell people call them. There's front to back, and there's side to side, and everything else is hogwash (my .02).
What I would do, is, yes, rotate more frequently, front to rear, but when you put the fronts on the rear, swap them side to side so they spin the other direction while they're on the back.
Just a couple of weeks ago i swapped the rear tires side-to-side on my mom's volvo because of feathering and the noise went down significantly, and the problem will gradually lessen as long as they spin that direction. Keep in mind, once a tire is bad enough to make noise on the back of a car, it's usually borderline intolerable when you put it on the front, so those tires are stuck on the back for the rest of their lives, or until they wear back to 'even' from spinning backwards. On a RWD you are sort of lucky in that once they start wearing on the front, you can put them on the back and any noise they may have been making will probably go completely away.
Of course, spinning them backwards half the time doesnt make them last any longer as far as tread depth. It just lets you burn through more tread depth before the noise becomes intolerable (if ever).
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